Volvo says that the fluid in these transmissions is "lifetime." What does that mean? I think it means just long enough to get out of warranty so that it's not their problem anymore. These transmissions fail at a very high rate, and I think that not changing the fluid may have something to do with it. I believe that a change interval of about 30,000 miles is reasonable. You need to get that old used-up fluid and shift-clutch gunk out of there and get some fresh fluid in.
Tools and supplies you will need:
Jack and jackstands.
12mm socket and ratchet.
10mm socket and ratchet.
New filter.
7 quarts of Dexron III or VI ATF.
Drain pan.
Disc brake cleaner.
Paper towels or rags.
Start by chocking the wheels and jacking up the front of the car. Position the jackstands to prevent the car from falling on you while you are working.
Slide under the car and remove the (7) 12mm bolts holding the plastic undertray on:
Drop the undertray down and slide it out of the way. Move your drain pan under the transmission pan. Loosen the 10mm bolts along the rear of the pan, then loosen the bolts on the sides and the front until fluid begins to flow out at the back edge:
Wait until the fluid stops flowing, then remove all 20 bolts. Remove the last bolt while holding the pan up to the bottom of the transmission. Slide the pan forward slightly to clear the subframe. Keep the pan horizontal and bring it down over the drain pan, then tip it so the remaining fluid flows into the drain pan. Set the transmission pan aside.
The dark area in the center of this picture is the filter:
Grab it by the end and wiggle it back and forth while pulling down to remove it:
If necessary, pry downward at the other end where the suction tube goes into the transmission. It's just held in by friction on the rubber seal:
Once the filter pops loose, drain it into the drain pan and set it aside.
Here is a comparison of the old and new filters:
The filter on the right is the old Volvo brand filter that cost $37. The filter on the left is one I got at Advance Auto parts for $13. I told them I wanted a filter to fit a 2000 Chevy Impala 3800 (3.8 liter engine) and that's the filter they gave me. It looks pretty much the same and should work because both cars use the same transmission. Pep Boys and Autozone also carry the filter for the Chevy. Of course, there's no way to know what the filter media inside looks like, so if you're really concerned, you might want to spring for the more expensive Volvo filter. Personally, I think it's the same thing in different packaging.
The kit comes with a new rubber pan gasket. Use it if your car has a non-reusable gasket on it (like cork). If you have the rigid reusable gasket that has ridges along it's length and around the bolt holes, use that one and discard the rubber gasket. The ring in the photo is a replacement gasket for the suction tube that goes up into the transmission. You can pry the old one out and press the new one in, or reuse the old one. I just reused the old one.
Here's a closeup of the seal ring:
The back side of the filters:
Position the new filter under the transmission and press it up into position.
Use the disc brake cleaner and paper towels or rags to clean the transmission pan. Here are pics of my pan before cleaning. You can see some very small black particles in the bottom of the pan. The magnet (the rectangular shape to the left) has a coating of particles on it. All this gunk should be removed.
Clean the gasket and position it on the pan. Slide the pan into position on the bottom of the transmission and start the bolts but do not tighten them. Once you have all the bolts started you can tighten them in sequence around the pan.
Now remove the ATF dipstick.
Insert a funnel into the dipstick tube and add Dexron III, Dexron VI, or equivalent fluid. DO NOT use Type F, Mercon, or 3309. Add a quart and check for leaks. If no leaks, add 5 quarts and check the level. It should take a total of about 7 quarts to refill it. The level is checked with the engine running and the transmission in Park. Shift through all of the gears first.
Reinstall the undertray, remove the drain pan, and lower the car to the ground. Recheck the ATF level. If you have some showing on the dipstick, drive the car a few miles to heat up the fluid and then recheck. It should come up to the HOT line on the dipstick. If it doesn't, slowly add more ATF until it does. Do not overfill.
This method replaces about 1/2 the fluid in the transmission (it holds about 13 quarts total). The rest is in the torque converter and the innards of the transmission. If you want more of it changed you can repeat the drain/fill portion by driving a few miles to mix the fluid, loosening the pan to drain, then tightening the bolts and adding more fluid. Each drain/fill cuts the old fluid proportion by 1/2, so after two drain/fills you'd have 75% new fluid and 25% old. After three drain/fills you'd have 87.5% new and 12.5% old. Or, you can use one of the "hose" methods here on the website.
Dispose of your old ATF in an environmentally-friendly manner.
PS. Just for grins I decided to open up the old filter to see how it worked.
The fluid goes through this rectangular opening in the bottom of the filter:
Then up through this oval opening and into the filter media:
The media is like a vacuum cleaner bag - fluid flows into the center, then through the media and into the transmission through the suction tube. Here's a pic with the media "bag" pulled open at the seams to show the inside of the media:
This media looks really clean, but that may be due to the fact that it only has about 10,000 miles on it.






