1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?

[GEM-Massachusetts]

My 17 year old son has been drive my wife’s former 1998 Volvo v70 xc. The other day he started the engine and it ran for about 10 seconds. The engine then stalled. He restarted the engine and it again stalled after about 10 seconds. After the engine would turn over very well but would not start. We checked for a spark off the coil wire into the distributor cap and got a good spark.

We then checked the fuel pressure tap on the fuel rail- blue cap.

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We got no gas out of the tap.

We then checked the fuel pump relay.

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We jumped between terminals 1 and 3 with ignition on – fuel pump did not seem to run. Apparently the fuel pump relay is ok. We then check for ground with terminal #2. Good ground – no resistance. We then check for voltage at terminal 1 with ignition turned on. Got voltage of almost 12 volts. Then checked for resistance with ground and terminal #3 – did not get spec of 1.5 ohms. Based on that, needed to check if fault is in wiring or pump.

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Can’t find any info on which set of wires is for pump. But figure that the fuel pump is bad because still got no fuel at all from the fuel pressure tap on the fuel rail.

Didn’t want to drop the tank after seeing all the work associated with that (all wheel drive). Cut an opening in the floor. Figure that I can add a back up piece of sheet metal and either pop rivet and/or mig weld the cut-out.

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Problem – can’t figure out how to get the fuel lines and the wire connectors off the tank. The fuel lines (pretty rusty) seem to have some kind of push/slide lock, but the outer part of the fitting on the lines doesn’t seem to be separate or movable. The rubber hoses are on pretty tight.

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Both fuel lines seem to be able to pull out a little bit but after that they won’t slide off.
Any assistance about further testing to be sure that the issue is the fuel pump and disconnecting the fuel lines and wires will be appreciated. Thanks.

[Ozark Lee]

Welcome to MVS,

The hoses don't come off of the fuel lines, the connectors disconnect but it is a bear, particularly if they are as rusty and corroded as yours appear to be.

There are some tips and tricks in this thread from the repair database.

I would suggest hitting them with PB Blaster to loosen them up a bit.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?p=56515

...Lee

[llama_of_doom]

where did you cut the hole in your car? I am trying to figure out where to make the incision so it'll be right on top of the fuel pump.

[exister]

I also have a 1998 V70 XC AWD that looks like it needs a new fuel pump. I tried to match up the picture of your cutout to my car, but I was unable to. If you could provide more details about the correct location to cut I would much appreciate it. Also, did this fix work out for you in the end?

[SniperCat]

Any news on the location to cut this panel? I also have a 1998 with a dead pump. What is the best source for a replacement pump? Feel free to email me at [email protected]

[dusty]

I purchased a pump, from highflow fuel systems (http://highflowfuel.com) though ebay last year, brand new 1 year warranty, it was about $80 with shipping. Highflow part number HFFS-340, it wasn't an exact match (shorter by about 1/2") but I needed a running car and long story short, it runs out of gas with around 2 gallons in the tank. I spoke with highflow on the phone and they sent me a replacement under warrenty. The replacement is basically identical in size and shape to the original walbro GRJ 235 and actually for a Dodge Neon SRT (highflow part number HFFS 377H). I have attached a picture from highflow of the kit they send you, this is their store brand pump, they also carry a walbro brand pump of the same type. I would definitely recommend them, fast shipping and knowledgeable staff, but call them to place an order so they know it's an AWD car and what the original was.

I am going to be doing the swap of the pumps sometime in the next couple of weeks and will try to take some pictures of the process. I opted to just drop the rear sub-frame, basically guessing my way through the dis-assembly, it took me about 6 hours to remove and 10 hours to reassemble the car in my driveway with hand tools and jack stands. I'd recommend getting a copy of Vadis and studying up, if I had, I could have probably done it in 4 and 8 hours respectively, take your time and be safe.

[SniperCat]

Thanks for the source on the pump! Now, anyone have any thoughts to follow up on GEM-Massachusetts best of practice fuel pump replacement. Cutting the access panel and replacing the pump and panel seems like an AWESOME alternative to dropping the whole rear end of the vehicle. Anyone have any measurements as to where to cut this panel?

[SniperCat]

Found it. The fuel pump is located directly underneath the right most passenger seat bottom hinge. I used a Dremel tool and a cutting wheel to cut the panel. I went through 4 cutting wheels. But the Dremel allowed me the precision to go shallow on the cuts. If I would have used a die grinder.... I would have cut the fuel lines. Be careful!

Dusty, the high flow fuel people have been less than responsive.

[SniperCat]

Here are the picture files. Please email me [email protected] if anyone has any questions. It worked great! A few small lessons along the way but overall much better than dropping the rear end.

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[holler1]

It looks like you have some kind of fastener to hold the cutout in when you put it back, but it's hard to tell from the pictures. Can you describe that?