Key wont turn in the ignition past I...

[Rich@BHX]

take steering plastic collar off look on left side {sitting in car} two torx screws on round plastic piece on colum in line with key take screws out pull piece off take flat screwdriver put in slot turn should start

That might not help if the wheel is locked.
If I take the metal plate from underneath the lock, and trash the contents, would it release the latch on the steering?

There's also some kind of a sensor (with courtesy light for the keyhole) and a cable that goes out from the switch case. Please can anybody advise what they are for? Or per chance a howto on cylinder change?

[BEJinFbk]

The cable runs down to the shifter interlock mechanism.
It won't let you remove the key unless it's in Park.

[Rich@BHX]

Arrrgh!!! Cracked now... I did find some previous topics and Lee's pointing to volvospeed site regarding the lock removal.

Thanks BEJinFbk for that info regarding the cable - I take it that you can remove it from the connector in the lock while the key is in pos. I
I also found about the chip reader that snaps around the key hole in S80.
Shame to damage the lock especially if you have a good key, chipped and programmed.

I have started removing the lock but nicely, with a view to get inside it (between the cylinder half and the switch half by removing the plate underneath) - in my case, some metal bit has broken off in that section where the pin goes up to lock the steering. But I guess I can leave without steering lock, as long as I can turn the key from 0 on.

== P.S. I've just found https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=13514 where Mom shows the autopsy of the broken lock ==

Just in case, in the attached pdf for '98 V70 - how Vadis suggest the lock can be bastardized.

[Rich@BHX]

Here is a round-up to my excersise with the lock, may be useful as a temp fix for the original problem with V70 (key doesn't go past pos. I).
As mom explained in his description - see link above,- there is a cast alloy bit on sliders in the lock between the cylinder and the switch. It pulls the steering latch down when the key is turned - no matter if the steering is locked or not. If the slides or the guillotine is either broken or scuffed or worn out, it can get stuck in any position.

Unlucky for me, it did in the upper/locked position so the key wouldn't turn at all. Scary stuff, suggest not to leave wheels turned when parking the car and removing the ignition key if your car is past due date

Anyway, having removed the plastic covers and electric bits away from the area, I chiseled off the metal plate at the bottom of the lock. I found a broken piece of casting inside but the guillotine would still not move down. Wit the chisel and a pair of cutters, I removed the slides and then bent the guillotine slightly to the left, away from the cylinder shaft. That released the latch (and the steering) and removed its mechanical engagement through a pin lever with the cylinder mechanism.

In my case, this operation did not break the link between the cylinder shaft and the shaft that turns the electric switch on the left, and after re-assembly (I did not put the metal plate with a conical spring back in), the ignition switch works - so far. As I said, I can live without locking the steering wheel, as the key in '99 and on has a chip in it and provide some level of immobilization...

(Don't know if the pictures of the bastard's 'intestines' would get inline with text but if anybody is interested it's attached here.

[Taugen]

2004 S60t: same problem this morning I encountered. Wouldn’t turn past Position 1. Felt as a though a mechanical/physical block that key was hitting after Position 1.
Removed the bottom plastic column cover (3, t-25 torx screws), and gently tapped on the underside of the silver colored metal ignition assembly with a hammer about 5-6 times (tapped all around the underside where the gold colored plate is in hopes to free-up whatever my be hung-up inside and blocking the key from turning).
Put the key back in, and it easily turned right over all the way, and car started. What a relief, for the time being. I have ordered a new lock assembly for $276, and expect to wait 5-7 days for it to arrive.
Have shut off, and restarted the car 5 times now, and not a problem at all.
I recall on my 240s that a heavy key ring seemed to wear away the lock assembly. So, guess Volvo hasn’t quite figured this problem out yet.

[mazda4d]

If you can turn the key to position I, you need to free the broken tab from the lock plate. You may hit it a few times, but the best is to remove it, clear the debris and put it back (step 3). If you want a definite fix, you need to remove the extra lock pin.

OK, now, here's how I repaired the stuck ignition switch: (2006 XC70).
1. after removing all the electrical connectors, dremmel a slot in each on the two anti-theft bolts, and remove with flat screwdriver. (At this point, the steering is free, you could drive the car home.) This may not be necessary, you may be able to do steps 2-3 with the ingnition in place, but you may have to use a small drill bit to get the lock pin out (part hollow for the spring to seat)

2. Drill out the small port beside the shift cable interlock (can be done in the car if you cannot release the cable), this will release a spring and a metal pin. YOU MUST REMOVE THIS PIN TO FIX THE LOCK MECANISM, as a broken slider will keep jamming it in the guillotine. Once removed the guillotine that slides to activate the steering lock will be free to move down when the key is turned to position I. The steering lock will still activate (bottom plate - conical spring).The only difference I found is that you could release the steering lock without the key if you remove the bottom metal plate.
(Once the steering lock has retracted, a small guide pin holds it down until the key is removed).

3. Now if your problem is that the key will not turn pass position I, you need to open the bottom plate of the lock assembly. Once open, you will have a conical spring that activates the steering lock. You will most likely find the source of the problem being a broken metal tab on the guillotine slide. This tab can fall on the metal plate and keep the guillotine from going down completely, hence keeping the key from turning.

4. Put back the spring, bottom plate (if it falls of your steering lock will disengage), and use regular bolts and put everything back in, cable interlock, electrical switch, plug everything back and say THERE I FIXED IT! (for free!)

Thanks for all of those who posted, couldn't have done it without you guys. (special thanks to MOM from his lock autopsy on https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=13514)
I have some pictures on the volcoxc forum.http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthrea ... er-problem

[falconbrother]

I replaced my lock cylinder last year. It's a bit of a pain in the ass to get the security bolts out but, other than that it's easy.

[obayha]

Bring this to the top as I just had this problem and tried to do the fix. I could not get the plate under the cylinder to come out. It is loose but does not want to drop out even with a little help. I tried the key and it now works and starts the car. Maybe the part dislodged and all will be good, but the plate is sort of just sitting/hanging there. This is my 2006 V70. I want it to be right as it is the one driven by the Misses and it needs to work. Is a new cylinder in order to make it perfect?
I did nothing but bang and pry like all the others did, but I wonder how long it will last.
I see that this is in the 92-2000 forum, but seems like it happens to a lot of years.
Thanks for any thoughts.
Shane

[mazda4d]

If you have the same problem as mine did, its a small piece of the guide slide that broke and fell on the bottom plate. By prying the plate, you gave just enought room for the guillotine to move completly. If you want a more permanent fix, you can drill out the safety pin that holds the guillotine up (and that could get stuck as mine did because the broken slide caused the assembly to twist and get stuck). The only thing is that once that pin is removed you could disengage the steering lock just by removing the bottom plate and spring. Did that on mine last year and no problem since.
To remove the broken tab you need to remove the bottom plate you need to dremmel out (I used a cutting disc) the two puch holes that hold it in place. I used the same disc to cut a slot in the safety bolts in order to remove the whole assembly, but you must be able to turn the key to free the ignition cable.
The big metal tab goes into the bottom left corner. Hope this helps.

[obayha]

The last picture with plate on the right is the one that is loose but not dropping out. I think I will drill the pin out over the holidays with good weather and see what happens. If it's a fix then I am good to go. Don't want to spend money on something that may break again soon. This car is a short trip car mostly with a lot of start and stop in town. I guess that can decrease the life of the switch.