2005 S60R No Start No Dash Lights No Remote Lock/Unlock

[imaV70Rdriver]

Thank you for your suggestions gentlemen. I finally got back at it. I’m including my notes for details but there are two things I want to point out. First, the ECU gets power to more connection points as the key is turned in the ignition. Second, fuse 6 has no voltage readings with the ECU removed, and odd voltage readings with the ECU installed, with the key in position 2, 9.3v across the fuse terminals. 3.0v from one side to ground, and 12.3v from the other side to ground. Further thoughts are greatly appreciated.

[cn90]

Do you have a spare PEM that you can swap over as a diagnostic test?

[firstv70volvo]

Thank you for your suggestions gentlemen. I finally got back at it. I’m including my notes for details but there are two things I want to point out. First, the ECU gets power to more connection points as the key is turned in the ignition. Second, fuse 6 has no voltage readings with the ECU removed, and odd voltage readings with the ECU installed, with the key in position 2, 9.3v across the fuse terminals. 3.0v from one side to ground, and 12.3v from the other side to ground. Further thoughts are greatly appreciated.

When you're measuring the fuse 6 voltages with and without the ECU installed is the fuse installed or are you measuring the two fuse sockets with no fuse installed?

[imaV70Rdriver]

cn90, no I don’t have another PEM. I did watch a few videos, but I don’t think it would cause the no dash lights etc, but I could be wrong. I do recall clearing a P0089 code within days of this happening.
firstv70volvo, attached are the voltages at fuse 6, with fuse in and out, ECU in and out, key out and in POS 2. I’m not sure how to use this information. Any further thoughts are very welcome.

[scot850]

If you have 2 keys and neither is working, and you are not getting VIDA DICE to read or communicate, did you replace the antenna ring as was suggested? As there are 2 people on this thread it is hard to follow who has done what. I see the OP was waiting delivery of there antenna ring from FCP. I have not seen any update since then. Did that fix the issue?

imaV70Rdriver, have you checked your antenna ring, and are you getting any warning messages on the dash readout?

Neil.

[imaV70Rdriver]

Neil, I have no dash lights, nor any power to windows, seats, interior lights, door locks etc. Only the radio will turn on, but very little sound. I’d also like to know if a new antenna ring solved the problem for OP. I haven’t had batteries in either of my two keys (key fobs) for years. I also have a service key. All three keys worked fine prior to my first post.

[scot850]

That is a good thing that all 3 keys worked as it means their transponders are still working. We had a problem a few years back when our son's XC70 would not start and I thought it was the antenna ring. I swapped it out but made no difference. In our case it turned out his regular key fob transponder failed. The other key worked so that eliminated the antenna as the issue. Having said that, when I removed the old antenna, it had signs of stress cracking which eventually would make the part fail.

The fact that you have no keys working would say possibly none are being read. I can't guarantee your antenna is bad as I can't recall what happened when we tried to start the car with the bad transponder ship other than it gave a message which I can't recall now. I can't remember also if nothing else works but as everything relies on the chip being read it is a possible symptom of your issue. The next thing would be the CEM has failed. That causes all sorts of weird stuff to happen.

Are there any junkyards where you could pull a used antenna for cheap to test?

Neil.

[firstv70volvo]

cn90, no I don’t have another PEM. I did watch a few videos, but I don’t think it would cause the no dash lights etc, but I could be wrong. I do recall clearing a P0089 code within days of this happening.
firstv70volvo, attached are the voltages at fuse 6, with fuse in and out, ECU in and out, key out and in POS 2. I’m not sure how to use this information. Any further thoughts are very welcome.

The weird voltage on fuse 6 looks might be due to some voltage level feedback through the MAF with the ECM installed and fuse 6 not installed. I don't think this is problem.

I went back and looked at your notes again and I want to ask you about fuse 25; did you measure 12V across the fuse 25 terminals with the key installed/Pos 0 and 0V when the key was removed? When you measured 0V across the fuse terminals was 12V still present on one of the fuse terminals? Where these measurements across the fuse 25 terminals with the fuse installed?
Fuse 25 is directly and always powered by 12V so there should always be 12V on one fuse terminal whether the key is in the ignition or not and you shouldn't measure 12V across the two fuse terminals at any time with the fuse installed. Am I missing something in your notes?

Edit: Assuming you're not measuring 12V on either fuse 25 terminals with the key removed then you need to check the 60A fuse that supplies 12V to a group of fuses including fuse 25. Check fuse 11A/4 and the connection from fuse 25 to the fuse 4, which is the fuse supply 12V to fuse 11/C25 and other fuses. The reason you may be seeing 12V on fuse 25 when the key is inserted is the ignition switch is connecting between pin S and pin 30 on the ignition switch and pin S is connected to the CEM. It may be 12V is coming from the CEM when the key is inserted. If you're only seeing 12V on fuse 25 with the key inserted this also means there's a 12V supply problem to fuse 25 and it could very likely be a problem with the 60A fuse 11A/4 or a faulting connection between the two fuses. If this is the case, you should do a continuity measurement between fuse 25 terminals and fuse 11A/4, there should be continuity between one socket of fuse 25 and fuse 11A/4, and across fuse 4. I believe the 60A fuses are on the backside of the engine compartment fuse box.

60A fuses engine comparment fuse box.jpg (103.27 KiB) Viewed 1987 times

[precopster]

Sorry double posted

[precopster]

At the battery there are fusable links to the left. Chances are one or many have blown or there is corrosion in the red wiring leading toward the left hand side of the car. These wires are thick red wires and all grouped together so there's no mistaking them. Look for green powder at the areas these wires are fused together as this is a sign of corrosion of course.

These red wires carry all power from rear of car to front and they power up all modules.