2005 S60R No Start No Dash Lights No Remote Lock/Unlock

[cryptobooja]

Hello,

My car is a 2005 S60R, 125,xxx miles.

I go to my car and try to start it but I get the message "Start Prevented, Try Again". I'm thinking the battery is low so I remove the battery. Trickle/Charge the battery in the garage. Couple of days later, I install the charged battery back in the car. Start the car. Everything works! I move my car and park it (street cleaning).

This is where the problem starts. I go back in the house and replace the 2032 batteries in both of my key fobs. Next day, I go to the car but nothing works. The car doesn't respond to either key fobs. Car doesn't start. There's no dash light. Only the headlights turn on (headlight switch is off), radio turns on but no sound, car seats move, and trunk lights turn on. I'm thinking the car battery is faulty and lost all of its charge overnight so I replace the car battery with a brand new AGM H8 battery. Still, problem persists.

I'm thinking the key programming was lost so I get out my VIDA to check. But VIDA cannot connect to the car. I get the following message:


Is it possible that the CEM went bad or is the immobilizer preventing connection? How can I program my keys if the VIDA can't connect? Does anyone know how to fix this? I'm lost, please help.

[cn90]

- Maybe you want to look into "Ignition Ring"...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 4308704881

[cryptobooja]

@cn90
Would the ignition ring prevent the key fobs from communicating with the car? Could it be a faulty UEM?

[scot850]

Antenna ring (ignition ring) is a code reader. If ti fails or the connector starts corroding (they do) then it can't read you key transducer and car will not start. Careful removing the ring as it has a flaky clip that breaks just by looking at it although it is not mission critical as the shroud holds it in place. Look carefully at the antenna ring as they crack and stop working. I would start there as both keys are not working it would be unusual for both transponder ships to fail at the same time.

Neil.

[firstv70volvo]

Have you measured the battery voltage? Even with a new battery you should check the voltage. I would also check fuses that supply power to the CEM and ignition switch. I have a 2002 wiring diagram and the left side of dash passenger compartment fuses 22 and 32 supply power to the CEM, fuse 25 supplies power to the ignition switch. Fuse numbers may be different for your model year but I'd start with the battery voltage and fuse checks first.

[cryptobooja]

I've ordered the antenna ring from fcpeuro. ETA is next Wednesday.

I replaced the CEM, ECM, UEM fuses but the problem persists. I will re-check the fuses and measure the voltage this weekend.

The car is currently in the driveway on a battery tender.

[Oly850]

What voltage are you getting from the battery (off the charger)? Have you had a look at your ground connections, particularly at the battery to the body but also engine to firewall, etc. I’ve seen crusty grounds do weird things.

[imaV70Rdriver]

Hi all,
I have a very similar problem, can I jump in?
No joke, for the last two years I’ve been dealing with an intermittent no start. Last year a new battery did the trick, and the intermittent no start vanished for months but then reappeared.
I got stranded a few weeks back. There was full power to the car, just no starter engagement. I had the car towed home and due to all the rain, the car sat for about a week while waiting for a new starter. While trying to see what I was up against, I momentarily shorted my metal flashlight between the starter power and ground. Oops! A bit late, I disconnected the battery. Then as I removed the starter, I noticed that the lower radiator hose was rubbing and was almost worn through, so I drained the radiator and replaced the hose, but have not yet replaced the fluid.
Can having no rad fluid cause a no start?
The starter is a pain to install. I needed to remove it with the wires still attached, and then attached the wires first, before reinstalling and bolting up.
Then I connected the battery and got the no dash lights issue, and no crank. All fuses under the hood are good, not sure about the relays, but there IS power at that location. There’s also power to the starter itself, and I removed the starter again to make sure the wires were properly connected. All fuses at the driver door are good and there is power there. I’ve tried two known to be good batteries but still no dash lights and no crank.
My VIDA/Dice displays exactly as OP. I have my VIN stored so I was able to get past that page. Nearly all modules are red, and there is a red “disconnected” near the key and battery symbols, even though the OBD2 is connected and the key is in position 2.
This is what I hear when I turn the key. Between position 0 and position 1, there is a click that seems to be a relay, then nothing at position 1. At position 2, there are no dash lights but there is a whirring sound for about 10 seconds, then it’s on and off intermittently. Fuel pump? Then there is another “relay” click between position 2 and position 3 while turning the key against spring resistance, but no crank.
Did I fry a relay? What should I do to check?
I don’t have batteries in the remotes, and just use like regular keys. Could there be an immobilizer issue?
Is there a way to check to see if the ignition switch is the problem, before buying the part OP has ordered?

[firstv70volvo]

Hi all,
I have a very similar problem, can I jump in?
No joke, for the last two years I’ve been dealing with an intermittent no start. Last year a new battery did the trick, and the intermittent no start vanished for months but then reappeared.
I got stranded a few weeks back. There was full power to the car, just no starter engagement. I had the car towed home and due to all the rain, the car sat for about a week while waiting for a new starter. While trying to see what I was up against, I momentarily shorted my metal flashlight between the starter power and ground. Oops! A bit late, I disconnected the battery. Then as I removed the starter, I noticed that the lower radiator hose was rubbing and was almost worn through, so I drained the radiator and replaced the hose, but have not yet replaced the fluid.
Can having no rad fluid cause a no start?
The starter is a pain to install. I needed to remove it with the wires still attached, and then attached the wires first, before reinstalling and bolting up.
Then I connected the battery and got the no dash lights issue, and no crank. All fuses under the hood are good, not sure about the relays, but there IS power at that location. There’s also power to the starter itself, and I removed the starter again to make sure the wires were properly connected. All fuses at the driver door are good and there is power there. I’ve tried two known to be good batteries but still no dash lights and no crank.
My VIDA/Dice displays exactly as OP. I have my VIN stored so I was able to get past that page. Nearly all modules are red, and there is a red “disconnected” near the key and battery symbols, even though the OBD2 is connected and the key is in position 2.
This is what I hear when I turn the key. Between position 0 and position 1, there is a click that seems to be a relay, then nothing at position 1. At position 2, there are no dash lights but there is a whirring sound for about 10 seconds, then it’s on and off intermittently. Fuel pump? Then there is another “relay” click between position 2 and position 3 while turning the key against spring resistance, but no crank.
Did I fry a relay? What should I do to check?
I don’t have batteries in the remotes, and just use like regular keys. Could there be an immobilizer issue?
Is there a way to check to see if the ignition switch is the problem, before buying the part OP has ordered?

Similar to my previous post to crypto I think you should start by first checking power to the CEM. Not just checking the fuses, also check that 12V is one leg of the fuse sockets, pull the fuses and measure both sockets, one side should have 12V at all times. Fuses 22 and 32 are the 12V power supply to the CEM in my wiring diagram, check both and check if your car may use a different fuse numbers for your model year (I have 2002 wiring diagram). The CEM also gets a 12V signal from the ignition switch when the key is first inserted (S signal) in the ignition switch and a second 12V signal in positions 1,2 & 3 (15 signal). Since you're hearing some relay clicks when you turn to different key position indicates there's 12V getting to the ignition switch and connected through the switch so if the CEM power supply is known (fuses 22, 32) to be good the next step would be to check ignition switch output for the 12V signals and even better continuity from the ignition switch to at CEM connector. Not sure if the CEM connector can be unplugged to check from ignition switch to CEM for the S and 15 signals. It does appear that the CEM isn't responding at all and why I'm suggesting first start with the 12V supply to the CEM and other 12V signals supplied by the ignition switch. There's no relay between the 12V supply and the direct connect to the CEM so I don't think there's a relay problem. I would also suggest disconnecting the battery and reseating the connectors to the CEM, unplug and plug back in at least once or twice and ideally use some electrical cleaner if possible. Also inspect the CEM for any water or other damage. The 12V power supply and ignition switch signal checks to the CEM are basic checks to make sure the CEM is getting the power and signals it needs to function. Of course, the CEM could have failed too but this is less probable so start with what it basically needs to function first.

[abscate]

You need to fault trace primary power from the battery to the CEM. Check fuses by removing and ohm testing, wiring for damage , plugs for corrosion. This is time consuming hard work, there are no short cuts