P0172 code broken elbow

noyesno · Post by **noyesno** » 18 Mar 2010, 09:21

Thanks for the great post. I had the same code and didn't know of this particular elbow 'till I saw this thread. Just found mine was bad and after liberal application of foul language and curses to Volvo engineers, was able to effect the change. I would recommend using a needle nose about 12" or longer if you have one, to hold the insulated line while trying to remove and install the elbow. As well, if you happen to be changing out the alternator or p/s pump change this at the same time. When putting in the new one I found it best to put the nipple end on first and then, with the one hand, aligning the hose and elbow to mate them up.

Post by **Red-Arrow** » 25 Sep 2010, 04:07

I get a similar code of 232 and 315, I know 315 is idle control valve but I think I found the same problem with the vacuum hose from the turbo side. It was cracked and showed signs of perishing but I can't tell if its allowing non-metered air into the engine triggering the fault code 232. I thought 22mpg combined was ok for a T5, are you guys saying thats bad?

Goldy · Post by **Goldy** » 14 Jan 2011, 22:50

All my hoses are hooked up any other things to check ? 1998 S70 nonturbo Thanks

digitalnomad · Post by **digitalnomad** » 26 May 2011, 19:09

My elbow looks fine, but I'm wondering about the other end. Can someone please describe or post a pic of where the other end of this hose connects?

1995 850 Turbo Wagon
A2 has trouble codes 231, 414

Post by **jblackburn** » 26 May 2011, 20:47

It's the top most (meaning towards the top of the picture - connected to the valve with the fat hose) of the three hoses near the turbocharger here:

digitalnomad · Post by **digitalnomad** » 27 May 2011, 17:58

Which number on this photo? Thanks for the help.

: IMG_4923.jpg (30.03 KiB) Viewed 2199 times

Post by **jblackburn** » 27 May 2011, 20:36

3. Nice numbering, I'll haveta steal that for future reference

staansS70 · Post by **staansS70** » 21 Jul 2012, 14:27

matthew1 wrote:Second one, part #9155862. You don't need to remove the coolant hose if you have the dexterity of an elf. Otherwise, it helps. I used a clamp on both ends because it repeatedly blew off one side or the other.

The attachment po172_elbow.jpg is no longer available

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New to this forum, but not new to forums in general. Sorry to rehash this thread but I desperately need some assistance with this issue.

When I remove my coolant hose the coolant comes flushing out. What should I be doing so that isn't happening?

Also per some IPD installation instructions* it says I should "pull off the fuel rail cover, disconnect all the injector connectors, and move the harness out of the way." Is this necessary? I can't tell from your pics if you've done this or not.

*See attached

TIA,

Staan

Post by **matthew1** » 21 Jul 2012, 20:14

Some coolant will come out, blame gravity. Don't do this when the car's hot/warm, obviously.

No, you don't have to remove the fuel rail, spark plugs etc. But that would make it much easier.

Post by **xHeart** » 21 Jul 2012, 20:20

I would drain the coolant first, 2 quarts or more. If clean, save it, and use it for refill.