Should I Stay or Should I Go?

[precopster]

If it read 12.57 volts with the engine running there's your problem. Alternators should be producing anywhere from 13.4 to 14.2 volts. Then again battery cables (and their internal resistance as well as corrosion) can lower this reading.

It's not the ALTERNATOR that was producing 30amps. They CAN produce up to 140Amps . Your car's electrical system may have been CONSUMING 30amps at the time, depending on what was switched on at the time. If they tested with the engine off they may as well have not bothered.

[elmo_allen]

They both tested the battery with the engine off. AutoZone would not even touch the Alternator because they said that my battery was dead. Their system said that my battery was at 0.80 volts. So I immediately went to O'Riley's and their machine read 12.57 volts and then we tested the alternator with the car on, and I had turned off every imaginable electrical system that I can turn off and it read 12.57 and 30 AMPs. I was having issues with the throttle as I was pulling into the parking lot of AutoZone, so is there a possibility that their reading was correct? Also when I went to O'Riley's, the car was working pretty well.

Thank you so much! you really saved me thousands of dollars! So my answer to my title question, is that I am going to stay!

[elmo_allen]

I know that I am jumping the gun here about this, but I am just excited and extremely hopeful that this will work. I am wondering if this was a problem from the day that I bought this car. Do you know how long it takes for the alternators to go out on these cars? It probably depends on the unit right? Also what are some good brands to stick with? I tried looking for alternators on the site you suggested and I did not see any for my car. :-\ Also there are 120, 140, and 160 AMP alternators. Which one should I get?

Thanks again!

[precopster]

For the time being, forget the tests at Autozone & O Rileys. The 12.57 Volts is normal when the engine is NOT RUNNING. Purchase a good digital multimeter. Spend around $30 or more.

Start your engine and place the meter across the battery terminals. What reading do you have?? Then turn on A/C, headlights, radio, demister and any other gismos your car has. Test again with these accessories on and engine running. Leave it running for 5 minutes. Touch the cables. Are the battery cables getting HOT? If so they have internal resistance.

Now disconnect the battery. Make sure you have your radio code. Second job is find where the earth or minus connects to the gearbox. (they usually go behind the battery tray and around the top of the gearbox, or is your battery in the trunk??) Disconnect the earth at the gearbox or engine. Then find where the earth lead connects to the body. Remove it. The earth cables are blue. Use the Ohms range on the meter and measure the resistance in ohms. It shouldn't be more than 0.6 ohms if all is well. If not you'll need new cables. Test all large positive and negative battery cables this way. Going from end of lead to end of lead where the ringlet terminal is. Make sure the cable is "out of circuit" In other words not connected to anything else.

You'll have similar cables but in red running to the alternator and starter. Disconnect them and measure their resistance at different points. ie end of cable to starter, end of cable to alternator, & alternator to starter.

If tests seem OK replace the terminals where they were attached, but first CLEAN ALL ringlet faces with steel wool or sandpaper and also clean all contact points on gearbox, starter and alternator the same way.

Once done and you are ready to investigate the alternator. Your one has the part number and amperage rating on the Bosch label.

http://www.fcpeuro.com/1999-volvo-s80/e ... =155&m=215

[elmo_allen]

I completely took the battery out and took it to Volvo to have it tested, since that is is where I got the battery. They said that the battery tested fine. That is all they said, by the time I turned around the guy was gone so I could not ask him what it tested. When I was checking the cables and the + and - connections, I found a wire that is bent so badly it looks broken. This is a set of wires that is going into my Oil pressure sensor. I just had it replaced, should I go back to the place where I got it done and have them fix it? I am not sure if this is warrant enough to have all of my electric problems, but I am convinced that it is the alternator.

Tonight I was driving home and I had everything completely off, (heated seats, heater, dim the interior lights, radio, STC, I did not even use my turn signals), I tried to prop my sunroof up (I.E. <) so that I can have some air flow and the car almost died. It started hesitating and acting like it was going to die. During this time, the throttle was in limp mode. It did not die but I was conserving power like crazy and it still was doing this.

My battery is in the trunk.

[precopster]

If the wires are positive and unshielded I'd wrap them with some tape until they're repaired.

It really does sound like a alternator issue. Mind that you can buy a cheap digital meter from any electronics wholesale store for as little as $8 and they are accurate to within +-.1%

[elmo_allen]

I took it to a reliable shop this morning and they tested the alternator and battery and did an extensive test on the throttle and they said that it was no doubt the throttle. However they smacked the throttle with a mallet and it has been working since then, but we do not know for how long. :-/

[precopster]

Have a look at this link.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... m.php?f=12

Guess you can either carry a mallet around with you or you can replace the ETM The non-contact solution by XeModex is cheaper and mpre reliable.