1998 s70 will not run

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 29 Mar 2013, 09:41

I guess in did not mention specifics, but yes, I checked the distributer cap for cracks, teste each individual plug for spark and I have spark at each plug. As I have mentioned, I checked the coil and had spark there, however, the spark was orange and I thought it should be bright blue. The spark at the plugs wre of the same color. I guess I don't know what other ignition parts I could check. Again, I must mention the Volvo was running GREAT when I parked it. What could go wrong with a car when it is not being used and sitting in the garage for 10 days??? Thanks for your posts. Keep them coming.

Post by **rmmagow** » 29 Mar 2013, 10:16

Still start but run like crap? Start it, let it run easing a little more gas, little higher rpm. Let it start circulating oil again (check level), I am thinking stuck lifters or whatever and let it rev up and clear its throat.

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 30 Mar 2013, 16:04

O.K. I done the compression test. All cylinders were within the parameters (190-205 psi). So this does not seem to be the problem. What else could I try???

Post by **mercuric** » 31 Mar 2013, 14:23

boballen wrote:I checked fuel pressure at the injector rail and that read 60 some on the gauge.

Fuel pressure spec is 3 bar -- 43.5 psi. Assuming the gauge is accurate and calibrated in PSI, that is quite high.

Post by **precopster** » 31 Mar 2013, 16:02

You can't SEE or measure a faulty rotor button. They have an internal resistor between the centre & tip that caused havoc with our 850. They measure fine when not under load then break down when under load.

The orange sparks are a clue perhaps........

jimmy57 told me of a test to do with the coil output before it gets to the distributor. See if it can jump across a 5-7mm gap and also see what colour it is.

Post by **abscate** » 31 Mar 2013, 16:25

Maybe a bottle of Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner ? I'm thinking you got crud in the injectors and they stuck whilst sitting?

SpeedyPete · Post by **SpeedyPete** » 31 Mar 2013, 16:34

Have you tried looking at the engine while it is running in the dark. You might find voltage bleeding off of the cap, rotor, wires... Regards, SpeedyPete

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 03 Apr 2013, 18:07

Almost everybody in this forum does not seem to take into consideration the volvo will not run. It will start for maybe five seconds then stops and during those 5 seconds it is running EXTREMELY rough. If you all can remember it my orginal post I stated the car was running perfectly. Then I parked it for 10 days and now I have this problem. WHY!! I checked for broken or chewed wires, changed fuel filter, tested fuel pressure ( 43.5 psi ), checked compression and all cylinders are at 190 to 205. I checked for spark at all the plugs and the coil. There are no codes that come up on the scanner. It says there are currently no codes in the cars computer. I also checked the timing, it was right on the marks.

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Apr 2013, 18:41

Sitting 10 days is no different from sitting 1 day. I think you should ignore that part - this is a car that suddenly won't run properly.

A logical reason would be a failed electronic part like a sensor. Unfortunately it sounds like the Check Engine light didn't come an and without a code, there are many possibilities. The symptoms fit a MAF problem, which is conveniently free and simple to test:

Car off
Unplug the MAF
Start it up, give it a few seconds to adjust to no MAF
The idle should smooth out

Give it a shot. A bad rotor is also a reasonable guess, although a little harder to test. This test will set a code and turn on the CEL, but you can just reset it after you plug the MAF back in.

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 08 Apr 2013, 17:15

Thanks to all who have given me suggestions on how to get my 1998 Volvo S70 started. Unfortunately the little darling still refuses to go. So I'm going to list everything I have done to it so far.
1. Checked the timing and it is right on the marks.
2. Checked fuel pressure and it is at 43.5 p.s.i.
3. Replaced plugs and plug wires.
4. Checked for spark at the coil and it jumps at least 5-7mm. (Orange in color.)
5. Replaced the coil wire from the distributer to the coil
6. Checked each plug for spark.
7. Checked cylinder compression. (All between 190 and 205.)
8. Replaced the distributer cap and rotor.
9. Disconnected the MAF and tried to start.
10. Looked at the throttle positioning sensor. Not sure what I was supposed to see, but I
looked.
11. Tried to start it in the park and nutreal position.
12. Looked for broken or chewed wires.
13. The voltage on the battery is 12.9 volts. Spins over fast.
14. Removed the entire exhaust thought maybe could be plugged.
15. Replaced the foward oxygen sensor.

One would think if you have spark and fuel you could get it to at least it to fire. I do get a pop out of it once in a while. Not quite a backfire. Is the firing order 1-2-4-5-3 ? I believe I read that somewhere. I'm not sure if it is a 2.3 or 2.4 . Would the cam positioning sensor cause my trouble.

If there are any other suggestion, they sure would be appreaciated. Summer is coming here in Northern Wisconsin and I sure would like to be on the road.
Bob