Getting ready for PCV job: special tools recommendations?

[abscate]

I think they are M6 ( 10mm ) bolts, aren't they?

The lower ones only need to be cracked , then unscrewed two turns. The manifold holes are slots on the bottom and so it lifts off. Remove them to replace the gasket of course.

If you drop one and can't find it, Kally in Syracuse will help you find it.

[RussB]

M7 with a 10mm hex. Another oddity from Volvo

[FLXC90]

14/17 combo for the fuel line at rail end, thanks for the catch on the plug cover size

[abscate]

Russ you could make your engine compartment more presentable by have both those fuel line clamp slotted screws both in the 9/3 O'clock position. Job well done!

4 1/2 rivers clean....

[RussB]

Hey RussB you got quite the pictures. Do you happen to have any to help me identify the location of the 2 12mm lower manifold bolt? Thanks...

Hey, Should I order a swivel Socket set for 30 Bucks and a 1/4 extension set?

Or can I make due with a 3/8 Socket, U-Joint, and a reducer or not... and a regular 3/8 or 1/4 10mm socket?

P.S. I ordered one of these:

You can remove the skid plate and look up...you'll see the 2 12mm bolts.

It's a tight fit to get at the manifold bolts near the thermostat...go to Lowes and get a 10mm 1/4" drive swivel socket, 10" extension and ratchet. You'll thank me later

Your hose clamp tool is very nice. I use end cutting pliers gently. Still need a set of dykes/side cutting pliers to remove the clamps that are on there

[bugs11]

FCP Euro has a pretty good video on PCV replacement on 850 Turbo.

[bugs11]

Also, I used the FCP Euro kit on my 850 Turbo and the vacuum line that connects to the nipple by the PTC fitting was too large, the hose fit really, really loosely on the nipple, even with a clip. I was able to a use vacuum line angle connector from a kit I'd purchased to step down the PCV line to fit. Using the angle vacuum line connector made the 180 degree turn to the nipple more managable, less tight of turn if you will.

[plumsmooth]

Thanks that Video is what really gave me the confidence to do the job.
I know it is condensed quite a bit.
But it has a way of creating an "I can do this" perspective.
Of course I also really like the use of the 12mm Ratcheting Wrench to get at the 2 12mm lower manifold bolts. Ideally I would like to be able to make visual contact with them!

Update: Swivel socket set on its way as well as my 1/4 drive extensions.
Pretty close to what I need and of course kit is sitting right here:

However tomorrow my former mechanics stickers should be here and we'll see if he gives me an inspection. This is also important!

P.S. I returned a URO kit and lost shipping money after re-reading the "do not buy" URO hoses threads

[bugs11]

Having just torn an engine down to the block for a blown head gasket and slowly putting it all back together. Replacing the PCV is definitely doable by new DIY'er. Just take your time, label and store parts as they come off. Take pictures before hand so you can put everything back together the way it was.

[erikv11]

+1. PCV is a long job because many parts are involved, but you are just taking them off then bolting them back on. Nothing tricky. Gives you a good tour of the front of the engine bay.