1998 V70XC Door Vinyl Removal and Refit Part 2

[bmdubya1198]

That's a great concept, and it looks very good! It has a very original look, and not like eBay stick-on wood trim type stuff.

[Ludermilch]

Great post and thanks for taking all the great photos.

I would love to do this someday when I get some of the more essentials repairs done on my car.

A couple of questions: what was the exact brand of glue you used, and did you do any surface prep to the fiberboard prior to gluing? Also, what type of primer did you use on the exposed fiberboard prior to painting? Do you think this process could be enhanced by brushing a coating of resin compound to the exposed fiber prior to primer and sanding?

lastly, having worked with this fiber, do you think it would be possible to primer and paint the headliner substrate in a similar manner or is that a totally different material?

Thanks

I used Elmer's contact glue. But, I am now writing about how it has performed over the past two years. I don't recommend using contact glue. Urethane is what I have switched to. It is far more adhesive, heat resistant and has held fast on my with other projects. I used acetone to clean a prep.

The primer was inexpensive spray can primer.

You could smooth out the fiber board with resin , but I like the texture painting directly onto the board.

[Ludermilch]

With deep - deep respect for the unbelievably detailed tutorial in this thread we like to announce that we are working on a sturdy but simple and inexpensive repairkit called PANELPADS to solve this problem WITHOUT having to remove the panels of your car. We found the working principle already, still working on the finishing touch, and we will ship overseas. You can get more information on:

http://www.wolvengang.com/#!commitment-english/oj5uu

Or follow this project on Twitter #panelpads.

By the way, this is no commercial, we are just a bunch of enthusiasts driving 3 Classics in our innovation business network. For that reason we thought we had to be the ones to take the lead in this nasty issue.

ATTENTION! Do NOT try to glue the vinyl back on the panel in whatever way unless you are an absolute upholstery professional! It will do more harm than it will help. Replacement with 'R' panels is another option of course, if you can find them.

I think it is neat that you have made a product I thought about making and went as far as to prototype it. Good Job.

[wolvengang42]

Thank you Ludermilch for your kind words. Yes, our Panelpads are on the market since some months now. You can order them here: www.wolvengang.com/panelpads-shop.

[manovlov]

Hy !
What a brilliant idea, I'm super surprised ! Good job well done !

VV70

[C1ph3r]

I used Elmer's contact glue. But, I am now writing about how it has performed over the past two years. I don't recommend using contact glue. Urethane is what I have switched to. It is far more adhesive, heat resistant and has held fast on my with other projects. I used acetone to clean a prep.

The primer was inexpensive spray can primer.

You could smooth out the fiber board with resin , but I like the texture painting directly onto the board.

bumping up this old thread too in search of known good adhesives. What urethane glue did you end up switching to for reattaching the 2 parts of the door panel back together? I was first thinking 2 parts epoxy or construction adhesive for the parts that hold the door clips back to the panel and the door handle parts back to the panel

[jsrnsis]

I used Elmer's contact glue. But, I am now writing about how it has performed over the past two years. I don't recommend using contact glue. Urethane is what I have switched to. It is far more adhesive, heat resistant and has held fast on my with other projects. I used acetone to clean a prep.

The primer was inexpensive spray can primer.

You could smooth out the fiber board with resin , but I like the texture painting directly onto the board.

bumping up this old thread too in search of known good adhesives. What urethane glue did you end up switching to for reattaching the 2 parts of the door panel back together? I was first thinking 2 parts epoxy or construction adhesive for the parts that hold the door clips back to the panel and the door handle parts back to the panel

I can give some maybe helpful info, I did a similar project but used new leather inserts from redline goods. I tried using 3M headliner adhesive, which has a lot of tack, but takes too long to get a good hold when you're trying to keep the leather and foam molded to the door card.
For the leather and foam gluing, we used 3M 90 spray adhesive, which seems to have done a good job for the most part, it's hard to make sure everything is glued down with no tension.

To contribute to what you are probably actually asking about, to attach the door cards together, as well as all the door clips that come off, we used Gorilla brand construction adhesive. The heavy duty and ultimate variants were both used, and I can't recommend them for this purpose. It must be clamped hard, and after drying seems to still have some give to it. It doesn't seem to hold up to the heat, since over the summer the door cups seem to have detached from the card backing.
Whatever Volvo's supplier originally used for this application was an amazing adhesive, it took a lot of heat and work with a razor blade to get these detached. Much different than whatever that green glue they used between the panels and clip brackets.

[C1ph3r]

I can give some maybe helpful info, I did a similar project but used new leather inserts from redline goods. I tried using 3M headliner adhesive, which has a lot of tack, but takes too long to get a good hold when you're trying to keep the leather and foam molded to the door card.
For the leather and foam gluing, we used 3M 90 spray adhesive, which seems to have done a good job for the most part, it's hard to make sure everything is glued down with no tension.

To contribute to what you are probably actually asking about, to attach the door cards together, as well as all the door clips that come off, we used Gorilla brand construction adhesive. The heavy duty and ultimate variants were both used, and I can't recommend them for this purpose. It must be clamped hard, and after drying seems to still have some give to it. It doesn't seem to hold up to the heat, since over the summer the door cups seem to have detached from the card backing.
Whatever Volvo's supplier originally used for this application was an amazing adhesive, it took a lot of heat and work with a razor blade to get these detached. Much different than whatever that green glue they used between the panels and clip brackets.

Thank you so much for your response. Funny you mention this. I am also using the Redline leather kit. Had it for years now and just gettting around to it. I am rolling the dice with the 3M 90 also. So I am glad to hear it seams to be working out. For the door card and the clip brackets I ended up with Liquid Nails Fuze It Max. It had the best temperature resistance of those adhesives. At least that I could find published. And I am going to use lots of clamps and weights. Drying time isn’t a problem fortunately. These panels can sit for a month to dry at this point. It’s been this long a few days for glue to set up isn’t that big of a deal.

[jsrnsis]

I can give some maybe helpful info, I did a similar project but used new leather inserts from redline goods. I tried using 3M headliner adhesive, which has a lot of tack, but takes too long to get a good hold when you're trying to keep the leather and foam molded to the door card.
For the leather and foam gluing, we used 3M 90 spray adhesive, which seems to have done a good job for the most part, it's hard to make sure everything is glued down with no tension.

To contribute to what you are probably actually asking about, to attach the door cards together, as well as all the door clips that come off, we used Gorilla brand construction adhesive. The heavy duty and ultimate variants were both used, and I can't recommend them for this purpose. It must be clamped hard, and after drying seems to still have some give to it. It doesn't seem to hold up to the heat, since over the summer the door cups seem to have detached from the card backing.
Whatever Volvo's supplier originally used for this application was an amazing adhesive, it took a lot of heat and work with a razor blade to get these detached. Much different than whatever that green glue they used between the panels and clip brackets.

Thank you so much for your response. Funny you mention this. I am also using the Redline leather kit. Had it for years now and just gettting around to it. I am rolling the dice with the 3M 90 also. So I am glad to hear it seams to be working out. For the door card and the clip brackets I ended up with Liquid Nails Fuze It Max. It had the best temperature resistance of those adhesives. At least that I could find published. And I am going to use lots of clamps and weights. Drying time isn’t a problem fortunately. These panels can sit for a month to dry at this point. It’s been this long a few days for glue to set up isn’t that big of a deal.

I actually ended up re-using the Volvo foam by heating it up and scraping off very carefully with a plastic razor blade. Best way was to apply the adhesive to the bottom of the sunken in part of the door card, and apply the leather to this first, making sure it sits tight and dries before moving on to the "walls", then the flats. Make sure to get a lot of adhesive down in the corners and edges, and make sure to push the leather and foam down into these areas before moving on, or you won't be able to get it to sit down into the corners, and the tension will make it pull away. This has happened on my panels, but it was the first time doing anything like this, and still looks better than the hardened, taut bubbled vinyl that was there before. I lost the phone I took the pictures of this project with, so I don't have any before pictures.
Using a carpet knife to trim the leather helped, it seemed much easier to cut and control than with a regular utility knife. Make sure to figure out a way to clamp those door cups where the little T25 goes in, and the window controls are, onto the door card as these get a lot of forces applied to them.

[C1ph3r]

Oh my foam is trashed so I’m using what came from redline. And thanks for the tips. I wouldn’t have thought about doing the inside of the cups then the walls as 2 steps to prevent tension. I’m probably going to use my steamer and steam the leather a little to get the shipping wrinkles out.

This is my first time also and I’m doing a rear door first. So I’ll learn from back to front. Hopefully by time I get to the drivers door I’ll have it down