Yes, I’m planning to tackle it tomorrow. Allowing plenty of time!Blacklab467 wrote: ↑22 Oct 2021, 17:30 It looks like it got bent a little, I don’t think it will be a big deal though. Have you decided to do it yourself? Take lot’s of pictures of the routing as you remove your old one.
2001 V70 2.4T Power steering pressure hose leak
- prwood
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Re: 2001 V70 2.4T Power steering pressure hose leak
Cars I've owned:
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- Blacklab467
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Plan on lowering the rear subframe 2 to 3 inches, disconnect the right engine mount and transmission torque mount first thing. If you drop the subframe and lift the engine with a jack you will have lots of room to maneuver your new hose in.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
- prwood
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I have worked with the mounts before but not the subframe. Do I just slacken off the subframe bolts?Blacklab467 wrote: ↑22 Oct 2021, 18:13 Plan on lowering the rear subframe 2 to 3 inches, disconnect the right engine mount and transmission torque mount first thing. If you drop the subframe and lift the engine with a jack you will have lots of room to maneuver your new hose in.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
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- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
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- abscate
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Volvo says to replace the subframe bolts , Peter, and I would do that here. They are torqued well into elastic regime and it’s not a good day if they fail or loosen. At the very least , punch mark and daily-weekly-monthly inspect for next 12000 miles
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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Link to Maintenance record thread
- Blacklab467
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You’ll need to remove the bolts and the plate with three 14 mm bolts also, not a difficult task and those mounts. As Abscate mentions, order some new bolts as these are to be replaced not reused, they’re only about 6 bucks.
I haven’t watched the video on how to change this hose but they might not mention lifting the engine to create more room to maneuver, it just makes the job so much easier!
I haven’t watched the video on how to change this hose but they might not mention lifting the engine to create more room to maneuver, it just makes the job so much easier!
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
- prwood
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Ok... this isn't going well. Yes, I decided to do it without dropping the subframe and lifting the engine, but the problem doesn't seem to be so much having enough room to access things, as it is being able to work with the angles in the hard lines and line things up properly.
It took me about 2 hours to get the old hose out. Not all that problematic. Thus far, I haven't been able to get the new hose in after about 4 hours of work. I cannot figure out how to get the end of the hose at the steering rack lined up at the correct angle. Right now it is at the angle shown in this photo:
I just don't see a way to get it to come straight into the hole. I tried to get some photos beforehand of the routing, but I didn't get close enough so I don't remember exactly how the return and pressure hoses were lined up relative to each other.
The other difficulty is being able to maneuver the hose at the right angles under the car while also keeping it lined up correctly in the engine bay for connection to the pump.
I think I may take a break and come back tomorrow hopefully with a clearer head and see if I can get things lined up properly.
It took me about 2 hours to get the old hose out. Not all that problematic. Thus far, I haven't been able to get the new hose in after about 4 hours of work. I cannot figure out how to get the end of the hose at the steering rack lined up at the correct angle. Right now it is at the angle shown in this photo:
I just don't see a way to get it to come straight into the hole. I tried to get some photos beforehand of the routing, but I didn't get close enough so I don't remember exactly how the return and pressure hoses were lined up relative to each other.
The other difficulty is being able to maneuver the hose at the right angles under the car while also keeping it lined up correctly in the engine bay for connection to the pump.
I think I may take a break and come back tomorrow hopefully with a clearer head and see if I can get things lined up properly.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
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- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- abscate
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It’s tool hell doing this without the subframe drop
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- prwood
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I was thinking about the subframe drop, but part of the difficulty I'm having is that my car is lifted as high as I can get it, and I still barely have enough room to maneuver under the car. If I drop the subframe then it seems like that would give me less room to maneuver.
I'm trying to think through how I took the old hose out and maybe see if that helps me fit things back into place in reverse. The first thing I did was disconnect the pipe from the power steering pump, then I disconnected the pipe from the steering rack. At that point, I believe what I did was pull the pipe from the pump through to the underside of the car in order to be able to pivot the whole assembly in various directions to work the pipe out from its position at the steering rack. So, in theory, to replace it, I would need to snake the pipe back to the steering rack first, pivoting the rest of the assembly to help get it into the right position, then pushing the other end up the pipe back up towards the pump, then securing the steering rack fitting, then the fitting at the pump. I had already tried getting the end at the pump into position first and hooking it up first, but I found once I did that that I didn't have any flexibility to maneuver the rest of the assembly under the car.
Unfortunately I'm having a hard time remembering exactly how the pressure hose was routed in relation to the return hose (was it above it or below it, and did it approach the fitting on the rack from the left or the right of the return hose). I know that I was advised to take photos of this, but the ones I did take were not helpful. The illustrations in VIDA don't match the reality of my setup, and I haven't found any good photos or videos showing it (probably for the same reason I couldn't get any good photos - it's incredibly difficult to film/photograph under there).
I've packed things up for today and I'm hoping that some food and a night of sleep will get my mind into the right state to be able to line things up properly tomorrow.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- volvolugnut
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It is possible to do this without dropping the subframe - that is how I did it. Yes, it is difficult to get the new hose in place. I seem to remember starting from the top to place the new hose.prwood wrote: ↑23 Oct 2021, 15:02I was thinking about the subframe drop, but part of the difficulty I'm having is that my car is lifted as high as I can get it, and I still barely have enough room to maneuver under the car. If I drop the subframe then it seems like that would give me less room to maneuver.
I'm trying to think through how I took the old hose out and maybe see if that helps me fit things back into place in reverse. The first thing I did was disconnect the pipe from the power steering pump, then I disconnected the pipe from the steering rack. At that point, I believe what I did was pull the pipe from the pump through to the underside of the car in order to be able to pivot the whole assembly in various directions to work the pipe out from its position at the steering rack. So, in theory, to replace it, I would need to snake the pipe back to the steering rack first, pivoting the rest of the assembly to help get it into the right position, then pushing the other end up the pipe back up towards the pump, then securing the steering rack fitting, then the fitting at the pump. I had already tried getting the end at the pump into position first and hooking it up first, but I found once I did that that I didn't have any flexibility to maneuver the rest of the assembly under the car.
Unfortunately I'm having a hard time remembering exactly how the pressure hose was routed in relation to the return hose (was it above it or below it, and did it approach the fitting on the rack from the left or the right of the return hose). I know that I was advised to take photos of this, but the ones I did take were not helpful. The illustrations in VIDA don't match the reality of my setup, and I haven't found any good photos or videos showing it (probably for the same reason I couldn't get any good photos - it's incredibly difficult to film/photograph under there).
I've packed things up for today and I'm hoping that some food and a night of sleep will get my mind into the right state to be able to line things up properly tomorrow.
Have you compared the old and new hose to see if they both have the same shape?
Hang in there!
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- prwood
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When you say starting from the top, do you mean you snaked the whole lower part of the hose (with all the bends) from the intake down past the engine? I had thought about trying that but didn’t because that seemed like it would be pretty tricky on its own.volvolugnut wrote: ↑23 Oct 2021, 15:11It is possible to do this without dropping the subframe - that is how I did it. Yes, it is difficult to get the new hose in place. I seem to remember starting from the top to place the new hose.
Have you compared the old and new hose to see if they both have the same shape?
Hang in there!
volvolugnut
The new and old hoses are basically the same shape, although there is a slight difference because the old hose was not the correct part - it was for a non-turbo model and was jimmied into place in an awkward fit. That mostly affected the upper part that runs from the pump past the intake.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
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