What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[ndphotonl]

Enjoy the added power & sounds

I replaced the coil packs with SKV coil packs

Oh I have been, for a while now. That’s not the first DP for me. Lovely music coming from behind & minimal drone with the resonator delete on the adapted/harvested part-out R-exhaust.

Hey Andy, can you post a link for those coils?
I was able to find some from a Polish seller, but was unsure of the listing. I always enjoy your photos! Thank you for taking the time to snap them. I perpetually fail to do so. Usually because my gloves/hands are greasy. Please continue posting images.

I bought these from this seller, but please note they don't ship to US. To be honest, go with Bosch or NGK if they are available around you, I went with a little bit cheaper option, as I didn't want to shell out more money at this time.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/312608093444

Damn, that downpipe looks very good. I love V-band stuff, looks very good. I believe I spotted that DP in US stores, but wasn't able to find it locally in the EU.

And I will keep making pictures, I like to document these type of things. And it helps people who run into the same issues/have the same questions.

[ndphotonl]

Installed these yesterday.
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IPD Poly Front Subframe Bushing Insert Kit - 3507923
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8969/12 ... 68-3507923
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Genuine Volvo - Subframe Bushing Washer - P80 P2 S60 S80 V70 XC70 XC90 - 31329447
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8859/12 ... o-31329447
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MTC - Subframe Bushing Bolt - 985111
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/20815/2 ... 1453,P8283
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MTC - Subframe O-Ring - 8638585 - Purchased MTC but Volvo's O-Ring link describes purpose of part
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8283/11 ... 283,P20815

Well done, how do you like it so far? I also have them and I was a little bit shocked by the added vibration, but the ride quality did improve a lot for me (especially noticeable in corners)!

I read about people removing 2 of the 4 inserts to allow for a more comfortable ride, but I kept all 4 in. The vibration weakens a bit over time though, although not dramatically.

If you can live with the vibration/cabin drone, this is a cheap and effective mod.

[850 LPT]

Mounted the summer tires for the 04' and 05'

Boy the tan one is in good shape (I have the same thing, but slick top & auto AWD, and not as nice). Way to go! To you and your daughter. Is it T5? Nice job to both of you on keeping the Thor's away from curbs Mine have encountered many curbs.


I did nothing Volvo task-related today, but did enjoy the new sounds reverberating from the tailpipe of our 284k XC70.


1EB39E67-451D-4C01-AE83-DE0EB29FD5F0.jpeg

Hi Pete, thank you! That's a nice down pipe right there.

The 04 looks nice in photos but it does have a few dings and scratches. The paint is amazing overall though, very shiny. It's a base model but nicely optioned. It was a one owner car when I bought it for my daughter (s) 4 years ago. It was garaged it's entire life and very well taken care of. I found the Thor's on CL a while ago for super cheap ( $80 the set with old tires ) and was finally be able to get newer tires mounted.

Too bad you can't do much to the sound of a non turbo Volvo

Dirk

[MoVolvos]

Installed these yesterday.
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IPD Poly Front Subframe Bushing Insert Kit - 3507923
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8969/12 ... 68-3507923
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Genuine Volvo - Subframe Bushing Washer - P80 P2 S60 S80 V70 XC70 XC90 - 31329447
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8859/12 ... o-31329447
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MTC - Subframe Bushing Bolt - 985111
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/20815/2 ... 1453,P8283
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MTC - Subframe O-Ring - 8638585 - Purchased MTC but Volvo's O-Ring link describes purpose of part
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8283/11 ... 283,P20815

Well done, how do you like it so far? I also have them and I was a little bit shocked by the added vibration, but the ride quality did improve a lot for me (especially noticeable in corners)!

I read about people removing 2 of the 4 inserts to allow for a more comfortable ride, but I kept all 4 in. The vibration weakens a bit over time though, although not dramatically.

If you can live with the vibration/cabin drone, this is a cheap and effective mod.

The interior and chassis seems to be one now. I still have a pull to the left when accelerating from a stop. Drove it locally only and used an empty parking lot doing circles to settle the suspension while checking to see if it had problems. The suspension had snap,crackle and pops before settled in. Perhaps it was the steering rack as I had to pry the subframe down also 2 inches to get that O-Ring in place.

TODAY

I checked the height, toe and camber both front and back and they were all very even.

Gave the thing an oil change today (Mann & Rotella T6 5W-40). Glad to get that Mobil 1 out. Installed a set of Quick Struts and left it on the Quick Jack for tomorrows installation of Anti-Ping bolts, neoprene upper engine mount inserts and lower torsion transmission mount.
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US $135.35
Set of 2 Front Complete Struts Spring For 1999-06 Volvo S80 & 2001-09 Volvo S60
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-2-Front ... Swdzxd6Hfw

The set removed were KYB Quick Struts. No leak but the right side had no bump stop as it bottomed out over big bumps. Probably internal wear or damage. Same experience on a set of KYB struts years ago on a 95 Plymouth Grand Voyager. Internal damage out of the box and the new one didn't last long either.
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Inserted some flexible magnet strips as spacers into the gap of lower control arms bushing to make it flex less when I used a pry bar on it. If that removes the pull I will need to replace the lower control arms or bushings.
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[ndphotonl]

I would advise you to get it aligned by a specialist, the car shouldn't pull to one side. Sounds like torque steer, which is also exaggerated when the car isn't aligned properly.

[MoVolvos]

I would advise you to get it aligned by a specialist, the car shouldn't pull to one side. Sounds like torque steer, which is also exaggerated when the car isn't aligned properly.

I used to deal with torque steer quite often when I PDI (Pre-Delivery Inspection) Acuras in the mid 90's. Also aligned a couple of cars on the Hunter K111. Use to have 4 ASE's because I was a good test taker and not a real mechanic . Short live career (1yr) in auto repair due to an injury.

However, I've been doing alignments at home since then and tire wear and the way it drives is how I confirm the results. Do measure and adjust toe and camber if the adjustment is available. I also center the steering. The only time a machine confirmed my alignment was on my brothers Lexus LX470. Had new tires put on and the shop did an alignment which showed everything in the green.

Volvo's are a different beast because so many suspension parts require attention. The 98 S70 T5 was not difficult but this 03 S80 at 130K is need of what seems like everything so I am installing a few parts at a time to figure out which is causing the torque steer type of pull. Only happens off the line but not during driving. Very stable and straight at speed.

I broke the plastic return on the coolant expansion tank while replacing the power steering reservoir and flushing it the other day. Car is still on lift waiting for FCP's coolant tank. Was hoping to test the new Quick Struts and anti-Ping bolts.
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[- Pete -]

... I broke the plastic return on the coolant expansion tank ...

Ugh, I feel your pain!

I've been doing my own (similar) Volvo alignments at home for a few years now as well.

Interesting on that fat O-ring that sits above the front subframe. Never noticed that little bugger. I've never really noticed any increase in vibrations after doing the IPD subframe bushing inserts. I think the increase in vibes is largely due to the type of lower and/or top torque rod mount you have employed.

It sounds like you're on top of it, but did you check your control arms/bushings, ball joints & tie rods?

[MoVolvos]

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Monday

Tried to repair the Alarm Siren with some cordless phone batteries as the "Alarm Service Required" warning is on. The board was in pretty bad shape but since I already had the batteries decided to give it a go. FCP does a nice job of showing the process from beginning to end. I only took a few photos of the mess. "Alarm Service Required" message is off but didn't have time to test the system as the car is on the rack.
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Similar Batteries
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-3-6V-90 ... 0005.m1851
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FCP

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Don't need to remove the entire fender liner
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Tried a pry bar end and hammer to rotate screw then cut a slot with a rotary tool for a screw driver. One more time with the pry bar and hammer on the slot but it was the vise-grip that worked.
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Cut it open with a hack saw, it's the best method. Splice the battery wires so the batteries are in series. Used a shrink tubing with glue inside to make the connection of the battery wires. Trimmed the edge of the white connector so it will fit into the connection of the PC Board.
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Need to remove all the plastic in the case that use to hold the old battery. Position wise this is where the new battery will sit in relations to the PC board so it was fit back into the casing.
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In order for the battery not flop around in the case nor rub against the PC board a soft flexible tubing / hose is used to provide space and cushioning.
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[MoVolvos]

... I broke the plastic return on the coolant expansion tank ...

Ugh, I feel your pain!

I've been doing my own (similar) Volvo alignments at home for a few years now as well.

Interesting on that fat O-ring that sits above the front subframe. Never noticed that little bugger. I've never really noticed any increase in vibrations after doing the IPD subframe bushing inserts. I think the increase in vibes is largely due to the type of lower rod mount you have employed.

It sounds like you're on top of it, but did you check your control arms/bushings, ball joints & tie rods?

Having owned so many cars I usually have a sense where suspension issues are and from a preliminary look the control arm bushings, ball joints & tie rods all seem fine including the sway bar links.

I was hoping to systematically put in parts needed and upgrade so I can tell where that pull to the left comes from when I start from a stop. The steering will straighten right away and at all other speeds and turns there are no issues.

1) Sub Frame Bushing Parts - The chassis feels like one with the upper body of the car but pull is still there.
2) Quick Strut - It ended here as I went ahead and change power steering reservoir before a test drive and broke the coolant tank. I AM VERY THANKFUL and GLAD I BROKE IT as it was very brittle. Better to have this happen rather than during my son's 2.5 hour trip to college.
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SUNDAY AFTERNOON

3) Upper Engine Mount & Transmission Torsion Rod - Decided to install these while waiting for the coolant tank. I also inserted some flexible magnet as shims for the gap in the front control arm bushings. If the pull is still there the rear control arm bushings are suspect. If the pull goes away I will remove the magnets and see if it comes back. If so the front control arm bushings are bad.
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Pilot Hole
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Larger Hole For Hack Saw Blade
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Hacked Two Kerfs In The Upper Area Of Mount - Coolant Tank Before Breaking That Hose Off.
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Outer Ring Made Of Plastic Instead Of Metal
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Super Pro 8671633
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... e-8649597u
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FCP Super Pro 8671633.png (399.74 KiB) Viewed 1433 times

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Regardless, I hope to have time to replace the control arm bushings.
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Rears will be the XC70 units while I'll look for some Poly for the front. Review on FCP stated Volvo should only sell these for P2 control arms.
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https://www.vivaperformance.com/genuine ... 0-v70-s80/
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... r-genuine-
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[MoVolvos]

... I broke the plastic return on the coolant expansion tank ...

Ugh, I feel your pain!

I've been doing my own (similar) Volvo alignments at home for a few years now as well.

Interesting on that fat O-ring that sits above the front subframe. Never noticed that little bugger.

I think with time the rear subframe bolts stretch so the subframe and uni-body will ever so slightly shift back and forth making noise. I saw those in IPD's catalog under "Recommended Products - You might need some of these products". I also like looking under "Similar or Comparable Products" for lesser priced non Volvo parts.

Figure since I was in there might as well spend the extra $20 for the white plastic washers and the O-Rings. WOW! That cost more than the C30 Struts I just installed .
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viewtopic.php?f=25&t=93383
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