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V70 stalls when warm. Reason to suspect Fuel Pulse Damper Topic is solved

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

abscate wrote: 21 May 2026, 13:02 Those look like standard high mileage ignition wear marks to me. Scrape them off with a sharp, stiff blade …a Boy Scout knife …isn’t life grand ? Girls are scouts now, and direction finding has been changed forever.
I agree. Terminals on cap can get like this and you get poor ignition. Quick and dirty fix is to scrape off the crud.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
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dalel
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Post by dalel »

erikv11 wrote: 21 May 2026, 12:36 Maybe just a poorly built aftermarket cap and/or rotor? Or somehow got installed wrong. Are you sure the metal mount underneath the rotor is in the proper orientation, on the end of the cam?

The rule on P80 cap and rotor is Bosch only and Bosch only.
Thanks to all for your input. Please don't take my comments as argument; just thinking out loud.

Put a new Bosch rotor and distributor cap today. I let it run for 5 minutes. Tomorrow (Friday) I'll pull the cap and see how the terminals look. If I have shavings after only five minutes I'm pretty sure the camshaft must be loose. ...Dale

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dalel
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Post by dalel »

volvolugnut wrote: 21 May 2026, 15:20
abscate wrote: 21 May 2026, 13:02 Those look like standard high mileage ignition wear marks to me. Scrape them off with a sharp, stiff blade …a Boy Scout knife …isn’t life grand ? Girls are scouts now, and direction finding has been changed forever.
I agree. Terminals on cap can get like this and you get poor ignition. Quick and dirty fix is to scrape off the crud.
volvolugnut
Check the pic again if you can see it. The contacts/terminals are actually spotless. There is actually a chunk taken out of each one. ...Dale

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

OK, It looked like corrosion pitting. Is the rotor damaged? Does the shaft move when you wiggle it?
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.

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Post by Vova585 »

Ecu or ignition module(if not replaced prior as part of coil swap).
Warm up the engine. Recreate stalling. Get yourself spark tester and noid light injctor pulse tester(both probably $45 at HF) and see what is missing during no start. To me smells like ecu

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dalel
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Post by dalel »

volvolugnut wrote: 21 May 2026, 18:19 OK, It looked like corrosion pitting. Is the rotor damaged? Does the shaft move when you wiggle it?
volvolugnut
Before I put the new rotor in I grabbed the old one (still attached) and tugged, then yanked hard. Didn't feel any movement. So tomorrow I need to look at the new distributor cap and then see if it will run more than five minutes now. ...Dale

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

dalel wrote: 21 May 2026, 17:52
erikv11 wrote: 21 May 2026, 12:36 Maybe just a poorly built aftermarket cap and/or rotor? Or somehow got installed wrong. Are you sure the metal mount underneath the rotor is in the proper orientation, on the end of the cam?

The rule on P80 cap and rotor is Bosch only and Bosch only.
Thanks to all for your input. Please don't take my comments as argument; just thinking out loud.

Put a new Bosch rotor and distributor cap today. I let it run for 5 minutes. Tomorrow (Friday) I'll pull the cap and see how the terminals look. If I have shavings after only five minutes I'm pretty sure the camshaft must be loose. ...Dale
Great to hear the thinking and get some dialog, no complaints here.

I've never ever heard of a camshaft getting "loose" or otherwise started to wobble. But also if it did, the main issue would be internal to the engine not at the cap and rotor. Good chance you've solved It!
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 201k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 223k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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Post by gdog »

dalel wrote: 16 May 2026, 16:26 With hope of not being a burden I will start brief and give you as much as you might want if desired.

Note: I have video of fuel pressure gauge and engine sound during start, stumble and stall.

1998 V70 base model with 169k miles runs for a minute or two then stalls. No error codes.
- During end of winter a "low on steering fluid" sound started.
- Sound went away after adding fluid (ATF) and temperatures warmed.
- Two weeks back the car died after a 5 minute drive.
- Can restart if I let it sit for a couple of hours.
- Replaced relay immediately.
- Bought new fuel pump but haven't put it in.
- Has an unwavering 42 fuel pressure (42 when priming, 42 even while stalling and 42 immediately after.)
- Replaced Crank sensor this week.
- Has spark immediately after stalling (testing spark with $5 tester from Harbor Freight.)

Based on an old Matthew's thread I'm concerned about Fuel Damper under fuel rail. ( viewtopic.php?t=86966 ) As stated earlier I had a sound I though was low steering fluid. That just happens to reside in the same area as the fuel damper.

Local shop has some guys reputed for old Volvo work. They say that after what I've done they would just be throwing parts at it.
So that leaves me kinda desperate.
Also I just bought a ICarSoft Vol V2.0 scanner and hope to figure out data capture very shortly and see if that is any help.

Hoping for and looking forward to your advice.
Very interesting case. Certainly sounds like fuel starvation during stall, but fuel pressure clearly is not dropping. Are you sure your fuel pressure gauge is functional, or possibly sticking on a reading? And I assume you're connected to the end of the injector fuel rail?

Sanity checks:
- Besides while it is stalling, does the car run and drive?
- Have you checked the compression? Ck it cold, and then ck it again after it's hot and just stalled. I'm thinking possibly loose valve guides.
- Has the car been sitting for a long time? I.e. does it maybe have bad gas?
- Does it lose spark during stall?
- When you say "crank sensor replaced", do you mean the one on the flywheel bell housing, or on the cam (CMP)?
- Have you tried running the engine w/o MAF plugged in? Also try the O2 sensor (pre-cat) unplugged too. You'll have to reset codes after this.

If the fuel pressure is truly fine, that eliminates any possible issue with any/all relays and wiring that powers the fuel pump, and the pump itself, so don't waste time throwing parts at that subsystem. That being said, if that fuel pump has over 120K miles on it, you're on borrowed time anyway. Try to answer above questions and will let you know if I think of anything else. Good luck!
1996 855T, 190K miles, N/A cams, N/A intake manifold & TB, do88 drop-in intercooler w/RIP, R ExMan, OBX_improved, green injectors, dw200, 18T w/7cm angle flange, 540i MAF housing, M4.4 VS DIY tune, wmi, Bilstein TCs, IPD sways, AEM boost and AFR gauges. Fun DD!

1998 S70 GLT, 140K miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD sways, do88 drop-in intercooler w/RIP, dw200. Want to do more mods but she says leave her car the f*** alone!?

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

erikv11 wrote: 21 May 2026, 21:17
dalel wrote: 21 May 2026, 17:52
erikv11 wrote: 21 May 2026, 12:36 Maybe just a poorly built aftermarket cap and/or rotor? Or somehow got installed wrong. Are you sure the metal mount underneath the rotor is in the proper orientation, on the end of the cam?

The rule on P80 cap and rotor is Bosch only and Bosch only.
Thanks to all for your input. Please don't take my comments as argument; just thinking out loud.

Put a new Bosch rotor and distributor cap today. I let it run for 5 minutes. Tomorrow (Friday) I'll pull the cap and see how the terminals look. If I have shavings after only five minutes I'm pretty sure the camshaft must be loose. ...Dale
Great to hear the thinking and get some dialog, no complaints here.

I've never ever heard of a camshaft getting "loose" or otherwise started to wobble. But also if it did, the main issue would be internal to the engine not at the cap and rotor. Good chance you've solved It!
An old distributor can for sure get worn bearing and get side to side play. The gear drive at the bottom can also get worn, but that leads to poor ignition timing consistency.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

volvolugnut wrote: 22 May 2026, 07:48 ...
An old distributor can for sure get worn bearing and get side to side play. The gear drive at the bottom can also get worn, but that leads to poor ignition timing consistency.
volvolugnut
Yes, for sure. But OP posted concerns about the camshaft and that is almost certainly not the problem.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 201k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 223k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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