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low battery after 6 month repair wait. Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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abscate
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Re: low battery after 6 month repair wait.

Post by abscate »

If the plastic cover is in correctly and the timing belt is rubbing, something is wrong in fitment
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Post by oragex »

Your tb tensioner is a little tired or perhaps the center bolt is too tight (15 ft-lb), that's why the belt is wobbling over the tensioner causing it also to rub on the cover. With the engine off, push down on the belt between the two cam gears, see if the tensioner needle moves to the right then goes back. May also check the needle stays at 12h with the engine cold.

The chirping in the first video is from the pulleys on the serpentine belt, spin all of them all by hand, the alternator also has a clutch pulley www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_Pzmj0jxfw

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Post by jonesg »

abscate wrote: 09 Jun 2020, 04:48 If the plastic cover is in correctly and the timing belt is rubbing, something is wrong in fitment
maybe the belt drifting on that tensioner pulley is the source of the contact between belt and plastic cover.
The point of contact is just below the tensioner.

everything seems to be pointing at the tensioner, if the belt was the problem it would show up more on all the pulleys but its worse at the tensioner.
Last edited by jonesg on 09 Jun 2020, 07:47, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by jonesg »

oragex wrote: 09 Jun 2020, 05:02 Your tb tensioner is a little tired or perhaps the center bolt is too tight (15 ft-lb), that's why the belt is wobbling over the tensioner causing it also to rub on the cover. With the engine off, push down on the belt between the two cam gears, see if the tensioner needle moves to the right then goes back. May also check the needle stays at 12h with the engine cold.

The chirping in the first video is from the pulleys on the serpentine belt, spin all of them all by hand, the alternator also has a clutch pulley www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_Pzmj0jxfw
Its possible, we did everything 3 years ago but at the end of the job the engine went completely out of timing between the cams and the crank pulleys (valves were touching pistons when rotating crank by hand), I had to make a long trip so I had a local mechanic finish up the timing job for me. It ran ok for 3 years but now I discover this whilst chasing down the rubbing sound.

Tensioner indicator moves ok when belt is depressed.
Indicator shows on the cold side of the range , temperature now is 15C or 60F.
I will wait until it warms up to 65F and check again.
If it still indicates on the cold side I'll reset it and test run the engine again.
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Post by jonesg »

its around 65F in the garage now, tensioner still showing in the cold range , below 12 o'clock .
I will adjust it.
But first, a cup of coffee.

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Post by abscate »

Gif that’s the Allen key hole at about 3 o’clock your tensioner has been incorrectly adjusted. It should end up at about 6 o’clock. You tension is counterclockwise past the set point , then return to the set point.
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Post by jonesg »

abscate wrote: 09 Jun 2020, 13:20 Gif that’s the Allen key hole at about 3 o’clock your tensioner has been incorrectly adjusted. It should end up at about 6 o’clock. You tension is counterclockwise past the set point , then return to the set point.
yeh I see, had to search a while to locate my allen keys, still haven't unpacked everything since moving here 3 yrs ago.
I saw a video on youtube, looks like I pre-load the tensioner, rotate back to proper setting it, then lock it down.
But first, another cup of coffee.

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Post by jonesg »

I adjusted
the tensioner, same problem with wobbling.

The tensioner bolt was too tight to loosen with stubby ratchet wrench, had to grab a 14" ratchet wrench.
so I guess I need to replace?
its possible this was the wrong part from the get go, I see 04 was a split yr with 2 possible tensioners, I never knew that when I ordered it.

I've been struggling to get the number from the rear of the block, scrubbing with a brass toothbrush, spray with brake cleaner, take pics, still hard to be certain but I think I might have it.

3135435 does this number make sense ?

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Post by jonesg »

3135435 ?
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Post by RickHaleParker »

jonesg wrote: 09 Jun 2020, 17:533135435 ?
That line is the engine serial number and it is only six digits.
The line above it is the Engine model and revision ID.

Soak it with a degreaser then wipe it clean with a Scotch brite and a rag.
The degreaser "LA'a Totallly Awesome" which sells for $1.00 per 1/2 gallon at The Dollar three will clean it up.

You can also soak it with degreaser then pressure wash it clean. If you do not have a pressure washer there is one at the local car wash.
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