02 XC70 - The repairs have started

[vtl]

Nice work, however why is this not done or is it like the transmission fluid suppose to be in spec the life of the car? Does VIDA give a mileage or time that this needs to be checked?
.

Solid tappets are good for the life of car. In Volvo's opinion, you should be buying a new Volvo shortly after CPO expires. I.e. should happen before 100k miles

With 10k oil change intervals I see why Volvo switched away from hydraulic lifters. Solid tappets are not only cheaper, but they also don't mind working in that carbon-sludge mix you typically find under valve cover.

[scot850]

I will have to look into this further. It is like the parking brake shoe support on P2's that can break off in salty areas that few have heard of, P80 sub-frames cracking from corrosion and I'm sure there are others including trans oil changes and Haldex services.

I have never heard of tappet/lifter adjustments on white block engines. That is even with engines over 300,000 miles and more. I have never heard noticeable lifter tick on solid lifter motors either. Hydraulic lifters on older P80's have issues as they get older sludging up. The main issues again are caused by overly long service oil changes or lack of.

I will try to find more on the subject from Volvo as I like to hear more.

Thanks for the info.

Neil.

[vtl]

I will have to look into this further. It is like the parking brake shoe support on P2's that can break off in salty areas that few have heard of, P80 sub-frames cracking from corrosion and I'm sure there are others including trans oil changes and Haldex services.

I have never heard of tappet/lifter adjustments on white block engines. That is even with engines over 300,000 miles and more. I have never heard noticeable lifter tick on solid lifter motors either. Hydraulic lifters on older P80's have issues as they get older sludging up. The main issues again are caused by overly long service oil changes or lack of.

I will try to find more on the subject from Volvo as I like to hear more.

Thanks for the info.

Neil.

As you can see, back of camshaft lobes have almost no deposits. Means, tappets started to scrape them off.

[scot850]

Wow.

Neil.

[vtl]

Wow.

Neil.

The result of thin 0w30 oil running at extended 10k intervals in high heat summers. I've got it at 79k in 2012, PCV was clogged, saw high carbon buildup evidence everywhere. Ran more with 0w30 and 5w30, but lately switched to heavier oil. When it died, it was running a mix of 10w40 and 15w40.

In Canada you have less of mechanical wear simply because even regular 5w30 is thicker due to ambient temps.

But this engine still commonly dies around 220-250k miles. I've counted more than a dozen of forum engines ended up with a burnt exhaust valve (not MVS forum). It also like to overheat and warp, which also brings third cylinder tappets closer to camshaft. A typical death sentence scenario is a summer road trip in mountains in south.

[scot850]

The exhaust valves is a more common issue. From what I have read over many years it is typically down to:

1) Lack of maintenance (oil changes) and leaking valve stem seals. This may be aided by failing oil pan O-rings causing oil pressure drop to the head.
2) Running low octane gas at high speeds and under load.

PCV issues are also an issue due to sludging and lack of oil changes. Our XC70 at around 125k miles is so far ok, but oil changes are 4.5-5k miles with 5W30 synthetic. I am tempted as the mileage goes up on the XC70 to consider running 5W-40 like the R runs on to see if it reduces oil consumption. I'm also going to try it on the 02 XC70 as it burns a little oil (maybe a liter between oil changes).

We do have the much larger issue of temperature range. Were I live we are at 3500ft, and our temps can range from -40C to +35C. Temperatures can go lower and higher. I still use the same oil, but then our cars are garages in a heated garage which should aid wear issues a bit. All out cars are run on 91 octane up here. No regular gas used on our cars, even the 4Runner (the handbook recommends Premium/91!!). All in theory could run lower but as the 2 Volvos are turbos, and we do a low mileage, the additional cost is not a concern.

Appreciate your insight! Always good to see other people/owner experiences.

Neil.

[XC70Rider]

Wow.

Neil.

....... A typical death sentence scenario is a summer road trip in mountains in south.

Well sounds like I'll need to rebuilt my engine in a year or two. Moved from Western MA down to Sothern Middle TN 2 years after I got my P2. It not's only much hotter but I drive 2 inclined large hills to get home.

After I cleaned the PVC and dropped the oil pan at 122k miles I've put nothing but 100% synthetic in her. I've used Castrol 5W30 Edge over the past year. She's approaching 187k miles but the CAM seals haven't leaked yet. Being a licensed electrical journeyman I drive the 2022 RAM 2500 on most days. Just drive the wagon mainly on weekends.

if the roads freeze over as they did last winter then I'll be driving the wagon until it thaws. Had to replace the Haldex oil pump to get the AWD working again earlier this year. No way am I driving a truck valued at $46k on icey roads.

[vtl]

Wow.

Neil.

....... A typical death sentence scenario is a summer road trip in mountains in south.

Well sounds like I'll need to rebuilt my engine in a year or two. Moved from Western MA down to Sothern Middle TN 2 years after I got my P2. It not's only much hotter but I drive 2 inclined large hills to get home.

After I cleaned the PVC and dropped the oil pan at 122k miles I've put nothing but 100% synthetic in her. I've used Castrol 5W30 Edge over the past year. She's approaching 187k miles but the CAM seals haven't leaked yet. Being a licensed electrical journeyman I drive the 2022 RAM 2500 on most days. Just drive the wagon mainly on weekends.

if the roads freeze over as they did last winter then I'll be driving the wagon until it thaws. Had to replace the Haldex oil pump to get the AWD working again earlier this year. No way am I driving a truck valued at $46k on icey roads.

Don't bother. With short weekend leisure trips it will last another decade.

Yeah, so far Toyota's A-TRAC is inferior to Volvo AWD.

[scot850]

Today had hoped to finish the front brakes on the car by replacing the front caliper brackets (really badly worn out and deformed), and install the missing front caliper retaining spring. Rock Auto let us down as the shipment did not arrive. Now forecast for tomorrow.

Decided to try and fix a bunch of irritating items. The driver's door window apparently would refuse to come back up from time to time. So far had no issues until this weekend when the new owner tried to raise the window. Nothing!

The previous owner used to hammer on the door handle to shock it into working. All this has done is actually break the pull handle on the door. It is snapped near the top screw. Tomorrow I will plastic staple and weld it which should fix it permanently.

I removed the door panel to access the master switch. Plan was to see if I could jumper the switch to at least close the window. Not terrible as it is in the garage, but needs to be sorted.

Opened up the switch which is full of dust. The wife of the couple drove a lot on gravel roads so I guess that is where it is from.

Cleaned the switch by removing the rocker switches and then spraying contact cleaner down the front and rear sliders that are the window contactors. Then reconnected to the door and tired it and yay! Window raised and closed. Tried it multiple times and it worked ok. Won't know for certain if it is fixed until extended use.

I then followed the Vida procedure to use silicon grease on the 2 sliders and the 2 button pivots on each switch. Reassembled the switch and retested. Still working ok.

Re-installed the master switch into the door panel ready for handle repairs tomorrow and re-install.

Next on the list was the brake lights. There is a bulb fault each time you use the brakes. The owner said he had fitted LED bulbs. This of course trigger an error message as the car does not recognize them as the power used is too low. So with my usual dread on tackling the wagon tail light bulbs on a P2, I removed the speaker cover, swore and cursed at the speaker trying to remove it, and then managed to get my large fat hands into remove the LHR bulb. It looked like a standard bulb? Witchcraft? Just in case swapped in a new bulb I had and then swore at the bulb and holder to get it back in. Tested. It was good. Refitted speaker (more cursing) and then removed it and refitted it correctly. Cover back on.

RHR next. Again had a real challenge getting the bulb out. No wonder! There is the largest LED cob bulb I have seen in that application.

Removed it as it was strangely corroded and fitted a standard filament bulb. Then could not for the life of me get it back in. OK, take the #$%&&!! whole upper light unit out to see what was wrong. Light out and there is the problem. The whole of the lower contact track is broken off the back of the light housing. Also there are 2 indents burned right through the contact points for the bulb holder connectors. I had this problem on out 06 XC70 a couple of years ago. No idea what causes that to happen. So I need a rear upper light housing! Call out to Blacklab247. I picked up a set of rear jewel lights for his 03 a while back. Luckily he has kept the old ones so I can borrow one and replace it later. I can also pick up the replacement rear wiper which the wiper blade arm clip is broken off.

With a bit of luck if the calipers show up tomorrow I can get the interior refitted and maybe even the brakes finished as well as the oil and filter changed. That will make the car useable while I am away next week so the new owner can use it and see if we have any other challenges. Still have the rear shocks to do and the O2 sensors. If time allows I will get those cleaned off and soaked in PB Blaster so we can replace those in a couple of weeks.

Neil.

[scot850]

Well the car has left the garage for a week or so for testing purposes and to see if any of the issues disappear with use.

It wasn't without challenges though. Heading on vacation to NYC next week for a few days so young new owner was desperate to have wheels as his truck is broken. I am concerned we did not have time to address all the issues, but they were many and none simple.

I disassembled the driver's door as the window was stuck open. This has been a long time issue for the previous owner. His fix was pounding on the door until it worked along with swear words. This managed to break the grab handle (naturally NLA). So not one issue but 2 to fix! Yay!

Took the door master window switch out the panel and removed the top panel. Removed the 4 rocker switches for the 4 windows and sprayed contact cleaner down the 2 'blade' switches (one for up and one down). Cleaned the switch up to give a chance for the cleaner to work. Then lightly sprayed the blades with silicon oil. Re-connected it to the wiring connectors and the window worked immediately, as they all did. Found a service for the switch in Vida which is basically using silicon grease on the 2 switch sliders and the 2 pins the buttons rotate on for each switch. Light application of plumbers grade grease and all seems good (for now) and hopefully stays that way.

Glued the multiple breaks on the inner handle section of the grab handle with JB Weld Plastic black. It was broken completely across the top near the mount. There is also a column with a screw to hole the inner handle to the door panel. I removed the handle from the door panel and glued it the 2 parts together and screwed then to the door to hold them together while they dried. Next day I used a plastic stapler and added a couple of staples. Also glued the rear column mount on. Now solid, reattached to the door panel and installed the door window master switch. Re-installed the panel. Window now works as does grab handle.

Then a weird thing happened. The door locks suddenly started working by themselves! That would have been OK, but naturally the tailgate was shut as was all the windows! I had left the key on the seat.................the only key I had............

Called the previous owner and fortunately he has a spare key so he ran it over for me and all was good. As soon as I opened the door I saw the issue. I had somehow managed on refitting the panel to push the door lock button hard enough that it had stuck in the housing. A gentle pry and it popped back out and now works normally.

I had been ahead of the planned hand back last night. Then I discovered a message for a marker light out! Bugger. Naturally the inaccessible one on the RHF. I managed to break it as I discovered like the later P2's it is the only one that rotated CW to remove.....!

Glued it back together and fitted a new bule. Cleaned the rubber seal on the bulb holder and a light coat of silicon grease and it went back in easily! So all good. No. Checked the message was clear, but there it was!! Marker light out?? What it was working. Walked around the back and found the one in the back was out too. Naturally the almost inaccessible one. Managed to get it out, tested the bulb but it is good?? Tried to get it back in and would not work. Ended up stripping the rear all out again so I could remove the lower light panel on the side I had just refitted!! ARRGHH!!!

Still can't figure out what is wrong with the bulb and holder. Swapped it with a spare and no issues?

Refitted it all and then the electrics are now hopefully good.

New owner turned up with his parcel from Rock Auto. In it was supposed to be 2 reman'd Nugeon front calipers partly loaded. So clearly on their website it states they come with the caliper, caliper sliders bolts, caliper retaining spring AND the caliper bracket. Part numbers are the same, one ending in an A and the other a B (left and right). Immediately noticed opening the larger box that there were 2 different sized boxes inside? Opened the large one, all present and correct. Opened the other, and no frick'n bracket!! I have now had issues with Rock Auto on the last 3/4 orders with parts damaged, wrong or missing parts. I appreciate we are buying 'clearance' parts but it does not say they are incomplete, damaged or unchecked.

Well that killed the plan to swap in the new brackets. We will look at this later on my return home.

All that left was the engine oil change. Straight forward and new filter and we are trying 5W40 oil to see if it helps reduce the oil consumption and possibly the error message for the camshaft sensor.

Checked for dash codes. No messages - Good. Checked the engine codes. I don't have the Autel as it is on loan while I'm away, so used my Innova OBD2 tester. It only pulled 2 codes: P0016 and P0030. P0030 was expected (Dead front O2 sensor) and interestingly the P0016 is described on the Innova as camshaft OR crankshaft position sensor error. Never tested the crank sensor as that was never shown as an option for that code.

Anyway, car started immediately and ran really sweetly. So decision made to let the new owner take it away on the condition he gets the windshield don e while I am away. We can then tackle the rear shocks and the O2 sensors then.

Almost brought a tear to my eye.....(in joy!!)

Neil.