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Ignition/Lock Cylinder Replacement Tutorial

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Volvo Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement
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narajuna
Posts: 1
Joined: 3 October 2011
Year and Model: S70-1999
Location: Montreal Quebec

Re: Ignition/Lock Cylinder Replacement Tutorial

Post by narajuna »

HELLO, NEW VOLVO OWNER...1999 MY S70 HAS THIS PROBLEM, MAI I USE A 1998 CYLINDER OR JUST CHANGE THE MECANIC STEERING LOCK TO FIX IT, I DONT WANT THE KEY-THEFT SAFETY THING.

GOOD DAY EVERYONE!

tr_car_nut
Posts: 17
Joined: 9 February 2011
Year and Model: 2000
Location: North Carolina

Post by tr_car_nut »

Here is the new link on VolvoSpeed:
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... _lock.html
2000 XC70 (113,450 miles) CEL P0422 after new fuel pump
2003 S40 (186,000 miles) re-assembling.
1999 S70 (170,500 miles) everyday driver now

OldSkoolMadSkilz
Posts: 22
Joined: 23 December 2011
Year and Model: v70XC 1998
Location: MD US
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Post by OldSkoolMadSkilz »

I just removed my switch. If I'm not mistaken, if you remove that bottom plate, get rid of the conical spring, and fiddle with the wheel lock so that it drops down, it will not break again. The wheel lock won't engage anymore, but I don't see that as a major issue.

For anyone who has not yet started, it may be possible to fix this by drilling a hole in the bottom plate and yanking out the spring without even removing the switch from the column.

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LamboSE5
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Year and Model: Empty
Location: shlu
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Post by LamboSE5 »

mom wrote:I received my lock cylinder and installed it the same day. It took me 2 hours 1/2 to to the job.Used a 90 degrees drill to remove the bolts from the lock.Here are the pics I took:

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I suggest to follow these instructions http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ignition_S80.html
Could you please show the part where you somehow overcame the impossibility of getting the shear bolts out? I'd like to see the 90 Degree drill, or drill attachment you used. I've tried every conceivable method to get them out and retrieve the cylinder lock. All that is left is to cut the actual steering column and take the whole thing with me, save up for an angle drill powerful enough to do the job of drilling out hard metal on an angle, and have both with me when my current lock cylinder fails completely and I cant start the car. (course, I'll have no power to run the drill it it's corded :roll: )

EDIT: I "conceived" another method that I had thought of previously - didn't want to resort to it. Let you all know if your interested, how it turns out.

jmmize1
Posts: 1
Joined: 18 February 2012
Year and Model: 1998
Location: United States

Post by jmmize1 »

mom wrote:I can't start my car, the key won't turn more than position I.
Tried to wiggle the steering wheel, shift override is working ok, button on the shift knob is popped out, nothing wrong I can see.
I also had the same problem with my 98 s70 I ended up spraying some silicone in the switch and taking the advice firmly forcing it on into the start position....dont know how long it will last but got my car home. will probably relpace switch

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pkc303
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Year and Model: 1995 T-5R Yellow
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Post by pkc303 »

I just did this repair, and a few notes that I would add. The first is to disconnect the battery. I didn't and when I disconnected the SRS connector, it set the code. Had to go to the dealer to reset.

I did not remove the steering wheel. It looked to be much more work than an 850, which I've done. The pictures were close to mine, but not exact. We have a 2003 V70.

The drilling part specified in Vadis. Not gonna happen without the 90 degree tool, which I didn't have. Used the dremel, punch, and hammer. I later found out the dealer uses a punch, and a big hammer. They specially make their punches for this job.

I didn't break the heads off like the other fellow. I never want to struggle getting this off again.

It took me 6 hours, with most of the work trying to get the heads of the "security bolts" removed. I'd say that would be the hardest part, as there is very little room to work.

The part was ordered from Volvo, and it worked. Happy to be done with this repair.

And...I just realized that this is in the wrong forum. Sorry guys, I'm used to this forum from the 850's.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)

tr_car_nut
Posts: 17
Joined: 9 February 2011
Year and Model: 2000
Location: North Carolina

Post by tr_car_nut »

I just did this recently myself. I used a dremel to cut a notch in the head of those bolts. I then used a ratchet and a slotted screw driver head to turn the bolt. This worked well on the right side but not so well on the left. I had to use the dremel and cut the bolt off on the left side. Took maybe two hours. I have the new lock today and will be installing it this weekend. No need to remove the steering wheel. I had to drive around town using a screw driver to start the car.
2000 XC70 (113,450 miles) CEL P0422 after new fuel pump
2003 S40 (186,000 miles) re-assembling.
1999 S70 (170,500 miles) everyday driver now

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pkc303
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Post by pkc303 »

The guys at the dealership use a punch. The service guys said they all have custom punches they made for knocking the screws out. I tried the dremel, and like you, it worked on one screw, then I used a punch to beat the other one out.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)

OldSkoolMadSkilz
Posts: 22
Joined: 23 December 2011
Year and Model: v70XC 1998
Location: MD US
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Post by OldSkoolMadSkilz »

HEAT!

I spent hours grinding and beating on the bolts until I discovered what makes them come out easily. A bit of heat will soften the thread locker. You will need to cut a slot in the head of the bolt, but after heating the bolt, it will spin right out with little effort. Just be careful. Use a heat blocker to keep form singeing things or starting a fire.

cn90
Posts: 8255
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
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Post by cn90 »

Nice idea using HEAT! I guess you can use aluminum foil to shield area the does not need heat.
And use a small flame tip from propane torch.

I have an essentially brand-new tumbler with keys (only 5K miles on it) if you are interested.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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