B+ terminal repair - main fuse box

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 07 Aug 2019, 12:53

Nicely done, I like that method!

Post by **amblerman** » 07 Aug 2019, 15:04

bmdubya1198 wrote: 07 Aug 2019, 12:53 Nicely done, I like that method!

Thanks.

However I forgot to give credit where credit is due.
I got the inspiration from this thread.

viewtopic.php?t=35208

I'm going to update my post to give credit.
-A

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 07 Aug 2019, 18:21

amblerman wrote: 07 Aug 2019, 15:04
bmdubya1198 wrote: 07 Aug 2019, 12:53 Nicely done, I like that method!
Thanks.

However I forgot to give credit where credit is due.
I got the inspiration from this thread.

viewtopic.php?t=35208

I'm going to update my post to give credit.
-A

Definitely, the OP made a very nice detailed writeup!

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 08 Aug 2019, 17:00

Knocked this out today. I used the NAPA lugs mentioned in the OP and 4x 10 AWG wire. It was pretty easy to run through the stock routing, fortunately.

It seems to have taken care of the two codes I had related to the CEL and ETS light. All I need to figure out now is the whining ETM... but that's for another thread.

The terminal in the fuse box was BAD! I noticed it looked a little corroded, but somehow I didn't have any real voltage drop. Before and after it read 0.01V at idle.

I used this SWAGER (that better, Abscate?

)(ordered with the MVS Amazon link, of course!) and it seems to work well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017S ... UTF8&psc=1

Post by **amblerman** » 08 Aug 2019, 18:59

Wow.. That wire looks horrible. Definitely needed to be done.

When I did this job on mine, the connection at the fuse box end looked totally fine but I decided to replace it anyway.
One of my issues was that it was loose at the battery terminal end.

I used the same crimping tool. Worked pretty darn well I thought.

-A

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 08 Aug 2019, 19:49

amblerman wrote: 08 Aug 2019, 18:59 Wow.. That wire looks horrible. Definitely needed to be done.

When I did this job on mine, the connection at the fuse box end looked totally fine but I decided to replace it anyway.
One of my issues was that it was loose at the battery terminal end.

I used the same crimping tool. Worked pretty darn well I thought.

-A

I think so too, it's a good buy for $24.

It's funny, because when I looked at the terminal before, I didn't think it was that bad. It wasn't until the other day that I really looked at the wires and saw how frayed and corroded they were. Of course, it wasn't as bad when it was attached as it is in the photos, but it wasn't a whole lot better.