1998 2.4 Camshafts in 1999 T5

[RickHaleParker]

Also thought about removing the intake again, shining a light through the plug hole and seeing if it comes through the valve seats. Not sure about how effective that'll be.

Spray a little water on the back sides of the valves. See if it leaks into the cylinder. Blow out water when done.

[bmdubya1198]

I think that's a good idea, the endoscope should be able to give you a good view in there. You'll be able to see any evidence of valve contact on the pistons.
Removing the intake manifold and taking a peek at the valves might not be a bad idea either.

[bmdubya1198]

Spray a little water on the back sides of the valves. See if it leaks into the cylinder. Blow out water when done.

Yes, try this. Make sure the cylinder is at TDC so the valves are fully seated.

[xApprchsNfnty]

Spray a little water on the back sides of the valves. See if it leaks into the cylinder. Blow out water when done.

Sounds good, I'll try to do that today. Really not looking forward to having to reinstall that banjo bolt!

[bmdubya1198]

My best tip on that is if you can't get it, remove the alternator. It takes a bit more work, but it's so easy to install with the alternator out of the way.

[xApprchsNfnty]

No doubt, but I found that leaving the hose from the thermostat disconnected and not tightening the part that clamps to the oil collector gives me just enough wiggle to get it on there, and those are easy to reattach when the bolt is installed. But it took me hours to figure that out!

I'm seeing conflicting information about crank timing. In Robert's video, the crank mark location (on the oil pump housing?) is different than on mine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0H5cgRYCMQg @ 6:20

and

viewtopic.php?t=67782 the very first picture. This is what my engine looks like.

Is it possible that I have the wrong oil pump housing and my crank is timed off? I feel like it was timed the way it is now when the belt was removed, but it was also quite awhile ago.

Edit*
It appears that mine is the correct housing and correct timing mark for my B5234T3, but it wasn't particularly easy to confirm that.

[bmdubya1198]

The two marks on the teeth themselves need to be like they are in that picture, surrounding the mark on the oil pump. As long as the cams are in line as well, you should be good to go.

[xApprchsNfnty]

Yeah the marks on the two different housings are in different spots so I thought maybe mine had the wrong one and I was actually 2-3 teeth off on my crank. At this point I don't think I am though.

Intake removed and did a LDT again on cyl#1 and it's definitely leaking passed the intake valve, I could feel it with my hand over the port. Did the LDT on cyl#2 (which isn't having comp loss) and there is no air coming from the intake valves, or minimal at the most.

So I think it either has to be broken valves or some type of obstruction between the valve and the seat. Maybe I'll do it again and try to determine if it's both valves or just one. I should know more when that endoscope arrives assuming it's not a total POS (was only $10).

Any other suggestions?

[xApprchsNfnty]

I sprayed brake cleaner on the valves and it pooled up without leaking. Did my best to use it to clean the valve seats, no change. Things don't seem to be adding up...

[RickHaleParker]

I should know more when that endoscope arrives assuming it's not a total POS (was only $10).

What is the resolution? At $10.00 it most likely 640*480.

Things don't seem to be adding up...

When that happens to me I step back from it and assume my perspective or what I hold to be true is not so. Then start over fresh. The most importation thing is to get over the frustration so you will have a clear head to start over with.