1998 2.4 Camshafts in 1999 T5

[xApprchsNfnty]

I broke the bolt for the cam locking tool in my intake cam and then broke the easy-out in there as well. I'd like to replace the cam but the only ones I find at the junkyard are 1998 2.4 engines. I've found some posts about NA cams in T5's but none that seems to address earlier NA cams in the 1999 T5 (not sure if that makes a difference).

Do you all know if I can use a 1998 2.4 Intake cam in my 1999 T5? Would I need any retuning? I just want to get it back on the road, don't care about upgrades. Thanks.

[RickHaleParker]

You need to be specific about the 1998 engine. 1998 2.3 & 2.5. The only 5 cylinder Volvo 2.4 for 1998 is in the Renault Safrane.
There is the 1998 six cylinder 2.4 use in the S90/V90 but there no way that would work.

[xApprchsNfnty]

Oh, thank you for clarifying that, I was having a difficult time finding 2.4 info for 1998. JY told me they were all 2.4 but he didn't know if turbo or not, I haven't been there to see yet, but I assume they're all 5 cylinders. Is the 1998 2.3 turbo and same as my T5? Would either the '98 2.3 or 2.5 cams work in my T5? Thanks.

[RickHaleParker]

JY told me they were all 2.4 but he didn't know if turbo or not, I haven't been there to see yet, but I assume they're all 5 cylinders.

Probably are all 5 cylinders. Most if not all 1998 AME six cylinder are 2.9. The 1998 2.5 5 cylinder displacement rounds to 2.4 but they are identified as 2.5 B5254T.

Is the 1998 2.3 turbo and same as my T5? Would either the '98 2.3 or 2.5 cams work in my T5? Thanks.

Got to be specific, there are six different 2.3 turbos used in 1998 B5234T Revisions 2-7. It looks like there is a good chance you can use one out of a 1998. You want to cross all your T and I before you leap. Completely identify the donors car(s) and engine.

[xApprchsNfnty]

I'm going to change gears a little here. This situation started by needing to replace my front intake cam seal but I can no longer lock the rears b/c of the broken bolt. I removed the sprocket to inspect and saw that the seal was simply blown straight out. A recent leak down test showed that my blow-by situation is in excellent shape so this leads me to believe that my pvc system is plugged. If I shift my focus to replacing pvc parts, can I simply reinstall my cam seal and then time everything without the cam tool?

[erikv11]

Yes.

For a 99 with no distributor cap that's what I'd do.

Be sure to check and ream out if necessary the channels in the block from the oil trap box down into the oil pan.

[RickHaleParker]

can I simply reinstall my cam seal and then time everything without the cam tool?

There is no VVT on the intake. You should have much trouble getting it back in time.
Did you mark the alignment of the intake sprocket to the cam before you removed the sprocket?

Post a picture of the exhaust VVT hub so we can see what type it is. On some types if you do not loosen the center screw you can time them like the non-VVT engines.

[xApprchsNfnty]

Did you mark the alignment of the intake sprocket to the cam before you removed the sprocket?

I did not. I marked the sprocket and cam cover but didn't think I needed to with the cam itselt (don't think I could have fit the white out on there between the sprocket and cover anyway). But I can see impressions on the gear from where the bolts were so I think I can line it back up correctly. It just surprises me that the gear is designed to be clocked, maybe to manually advance/retard intake timing?

I'll get some pictures today.

*Edit*


I don't see any type of identification number on either side of the camshaft. And when I removed the belt, the exhaust gear didn't move, does that mean it's not spring loaded like the ones I've seen in the DIY videos? My timing marks stayed aligned.

And here's the troublemaker

[RickHaleParker]

If you do not mess with the bolts on that exhaust VVT. All you need to do is line up the three timing marks.
If you mess with the bolts on the VVT, you will need to realign the VVT to the camshaft.

The VVT is spring loaded. It operates differently than the others you been looking at.


The troublemaker need to be drilled out with a bigger bit, if you want to get it out.
You are cutting metal go slow with a sharp bit and keep it oiled.

Next time you try getting a broken bolt out use left hand drill bits.
Sometimes just drilling with a left hand bit will spin the bolt out.
Right hand drills tighten the bolt.

[xApprchsNfnty]

Ok thanks, yeah I just need the intake cam seal replaced so I'll leave the exhaust alone. At least I can replace the rear exh. seal.

No matter the size of the bit, I could not work through that bolt anymore. The the bits may have lost their edge. I already gave up and decided to just leave it in there and deal with it the next time I'm doing something that absolutely requires its removal. But maybe I'll try to sharpen the bits and give it one more go.

I did try the LH drill bit but it wasn't my first attempt to extract, I bought one yesterday after much RH drilling which didn't work. I'll be better prepared for next time.

While I'm waiting for the cam seals, I'm beginning to tackle the PVC system but trying to figure out a way to disconnect the fuel line 'quick disconnect' without a special tool...

*Edit*
Fuel line was easy with a dental pick and a paper clip. But that f****ng banjo bolt underneath, who decided that was a good design?! I've got everything else removed except it but I can't seem to twist the IM to get a good angle, and when I finally get the socket on there, I have no room to turn the wrench. Any suggestions?