1998 2.4 Camshafts in 1999 T5

xApprchsNfnty · Post by **xApprchsNfnty** » 26 Apr 2020, 19:57

Yeah it is, it's this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/383476392543. Oh, I guess it was only $5! Ha!
I don't know much about these things, I hope it'll look sharp enough to help.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 26 Apr 2020, 20:19

xApprchsNfnty wrote: ↑26 Apr 2020, 19:57 Yeah it is, it's this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/383476392543. Oh, I guess it was only $5! Ha!
I don't know much about these things, I hope it'll look sharp enough to help.

No mirror attachments. You will not be able to look up at the valves or sideways at the cylinder walls. If you do get something with mirror attachments make sure high quality mirrors. The optics of the cheap plastic mirrors is practically useless. The image is too distorted.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 26 Apr 2020, 22:22

Yeah, I have a similar one. It does the job... not high resolution, but it's not too bad.

That's really weird that the valves don't seem to be leaking. I feel like this is something simple, but I can't think of what it could be. The only thing that makes sense is a bent valve for your compression loss, yet if there is no leakage when you test it...

xApprchsNfnty · Post by **xApprchsNfnty** » 26 Apr 2020, 22:51

I think this one may have a small mirror attachment with it, didn't really think about that though. I'll see when it gets here. I did buy a nice pen light tonight and was able to get a good look at the valves, no signs of damage from what I can see. Tomorrow I might put brake clean or water on them and then do the leak down to see how much it bubbles, should have thought of that today.

What I can't understand is if the pressure at the gauge is 90psi and the pressure in the cylinder is 10psi, then how is it that the air escaping the intake valves isn't blowing my hair back? I would expect to hear/feel more air than I do.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 27 Apr 2020, 07:22

xApprchsNfnty wrote: ↑26 Apr 2020, 22:51 I think this one may have a small mirror attachment with it, didn't really think about that though.

If it is a press on mirror, make sure you tape it on. So it does not come off and get lost in a cylinder.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 27 Apr 2020, 08:55

Most of these kits include a small assortment of tools, like the mirror, little grabbers, etc. Mine has one.

Is that 10 PSI number the pressure loss, or does that mean a 80 PSI pressure loss? If so, yeah, you should probably feel the air coming out if the intake manifold is off.

xApprchsNfnty · Post by **xApprchsNfnty** » 27 Apr 2020, 09:24

bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑27 Apr 2020, 08:55 Is that 10 PSI number the pressure loss, or does that mean a 80 PSI pressure loss? If so, yeah, you should probably feel the air coming out if the intake manifold is off.

80% LOSS!! I know, it's crazy! It just doesn't make sense. And sure it's being split with the rings which probably leak 15-25% (200k mile engine) but that would leave at least 50psi leaking from the intake valves? If so, they would definitely drain the brake cleaner. I'd suspect the cheap LD tester but cyl#2 reads only 20% loss. I've added oil to the threads of the hose, doesn't change it, maybe I should use teflon tape to rule that out. Coolant is empty now but when it was full I wasn't getting any bubbles, only a little air from the dipstick/oil cap, and a little from intake/exhaust valves. Maybe there was still air in the cooling system so it wasn't bubbling? I added to rad from the top hose and then added through the expansion tank.

I don't feel any air from cyl#2 intake ports and I feel a little through the others. Maybe 'a little' is enough to lose 50psi, but I doubt it.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 27 Apr 2020, 10:50

That is crazy for sure. I have the old Pittsburgh leak down tester from HF, it's complete junk but it does the job. If you want any numbers, it's useless. The new Maddox one looks better, which is what I assume you have since it has an actual pressure gauge on both sides. It's possible you got a dud, but it definitely sounds like you're losing pressure either way.

xApprchsNfnty · Post by **xApprchsNfnty** » 27 Apr 2020, 12:24

Completely submerged valves in water on cyl#4 and left for 10 mins with zero change in level from what I could tell. Then performed LDT and it started bubbling pretty heavily (90psi at tester, 24psi in cylinder). Performed same test on cyl#2 (ideal compression) and it bubbled as well but not to the same extent.

Video links (poor audio):
Cyl#4 https://youtu.be/SvX8aoqlvAw

Cyl#2 https://youtu.be/71jJKdUDFmE

Update:
Same results with cyl#1,3,5 as with cyl#4 and with some cylinders, one valve bubbled more than the other (Correction: at least one cylinder did drain water within 5-10 mins). I noticed that my intake has some kind of dirt/corrosion (carbon?) on the runners that comes off and I found a piece of it floating on top of one of the valves. I can squish it with my hands and it becomes pastey but initially it's grainy. Might be obstructing the valves from closing? I'll get some wire brushes and try to clean around the edges/seats.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 27 Apr 2020, 17:46

Heavier carbon deposits could potentially cause valve sealing issues, it might be a good ideal to pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil, Seafoam, or something on the valves and just let them soak. However unfortunately, I think you may have some bent valves.
Definitely try cleaning them first though, you never know if it might help it!

1998 2.4 Camshafts in 1999 T5

Re: 1998 2.4 Camshafts in 1999 T5