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Best Place To Drill Into Center Console 1998 v70

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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MrAl
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Best Place To Drill Into Center Console 1998 v70

Post by MrAl »

Hello there,

What do you think would be the best place to drill into the center console to mount a tie wrap mount?

I would like to clean up some wiring that i installed and would like to tie wrap it to the console so i can run it to the back seat area just behind the console. I have figured out i can mount the terminal block to the back of the console in the area where the second cigar lighter is as there is plenty of room behind the back panel part, but i also want to put a mount on the drivers side of the console maybe half way up or even near the top would be ok as long as it is on the side between the seat and the console. I might want to put a couple along that side, at least two if possible.

I know there is stuff under there that should not be bothered and i dont want to have to drill little test holes to find out. Maybe an exploded view of the console and underneath would help?

Thanks much.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
1998 v70, non turbo, FWD, base model, on the road from April 2nd, 2015 to July 26, 2023.

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Take the console out. It takes about 6 screws and a bit of jiggling to get the 2 x seat heater switches out and the center coin tray. Having done this many times I can probably do this in about 10 mins max.

There are probably instructions here somewhere on how to do this. The one thing I find helps is to remove the ash tray first (2 x T25 screws either side near the top when the tray is open. Putting the car in Neutral (wheels chocked) helps to remove the ashtray, then pry the coin holder out (from the rear if I remember right) and then the front of the center tray behind it (2 plastic tags either end nearest the gear shift).
There are 2 m ore T25 screws at the very front of the console that have to be removed.

Then you can push up the heated seat switches from below and disconnect the 2 harnesses.

Next remove the parking brake boot. The panel it is connected to swivels outward from the front by the gearshift sideways. The console lid needs to be open for this. With the boot panel loose, it will slide the boot over the parking brake.

Lastly there are 2 x 8mm socket head bolts under the little panel under the arm rest at the front of the cubby. A flat blade screw driver pops that out and the 2 bolts are under there. Snap the front edges of the sides outward on both sides. Finally there are 2 wiring harness plugs that have to be undone under the parking brake cover recess. There is a button on the tops you have to push down on and then they may need prying to remove.

The console now lifts out. Lift it from the rear and carefully lift it and move it backwards and up watching the front to make sure the gearshift hole clears the gearshift (still keep it in neutral until this is complete).

Now you have loads of room to see what you need to do.

Here is Robert DIY's video:



Trying to drill it while in is dangerous due to the wiring harnesses under there.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

crlande
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Post by crlande »

Unless I am missing something, just run the wires down and under the carpeting to rear.

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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

scot850 wrote: 04 Mar 2023, 18:48 Take the console out. It takes about 6 screws and a bit of jiggling to get the 2 x seat heater switches out and the center coin tray. Having done this many times I can probably do this in about 10 mins max.

There are probably instructions here somewhere on how to do this. The one thing I find helps is to remove the ash tray first (2 x T25 screws either side near the top when the tray is open. Putting the car in Neutral (wheels chocked) helps to remove the ashtray, then pry the coin holder out (from the rear if I remember right) and then the front of the center tray behind it (2 plastic tags either end nearest the gear shift).
There are 2 m ore T25 screws at the very front of the console that have to be removed.

Then you can push up the heated seat switches from below and disconnect the 2 harnesses.

Next remove the parking brake boot. The panel it is connected to swivels outward from the front by the gearshift sideways. The console lid needs to be open for this. With the boot panel loose, it will slide the boot over the parking brake.

Lastly there are 2 x 8mm socket head bolts under the little panel under the arm rest at the front of the cubby. A flat blade screw driver pops that out and the 2 bolts are under there. Snap the front edges of the sides outward on both sides. Finally there are 2 wiring harness plugs that have to be undone under the parking brake cover recess. There is a button on the tops you have to push down on and then they may need prying to remove.

The console now lifts out. Lift it from the rear and carefully lift it and move it backwards and up watching the front to make sure the gearshift hole clears the gearshift (still keep it in neutral until this is complete).

Now you have loads of room to see what you need to do.

Here is Robert DIY's video:



Trying to drill it while in is dangerous due to the wiring harnesses under there.

Neil.

Hi Neil,

Yeah the reason i was asking was because i didnt really want to have to take the console out. It may be just one hole to drill and that sounds like a lot of work for that. Interesting though, if i did take it out i may be able to run it under the console that would be even neater. Have to think about that. Be interesting to see what is under there anyway. I read there is a crash detector too?

Thanks.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
1998 v70, non turbo, FWD, base model, on the road from April 2nd, 2015 to July 26, 2023.

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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

crlande wrote: 05 Mar 2023, 08:58 Unless I am missing something, just run the wires down and under the carpeting to rear.
Oh dang i wish i had read this reply before i went out there today.

I'll check that idea out next time i go out there either later today or tomorrow.
Are you sure the carpet comes up that easy though, and then goes back down sufficiently?
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
1998 v70, non turbo, FWD, base model, on the road from April 2nd, 2015 to July 26, 2023.

crlande
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Post by crlande »

Yup! Plenty of the car wiring is run along both sides of carpet doors areas. Stereo, fuel pump, brake lights, etc. Open doors, pull up the snap in place plastic sill kick plate, pull up carpet and you will see tons of wiring, Some enclosed in plastic cases. Carpet folds back down easily. Also, you will need to pull up carpet when you replace the heater core eventually. Cake walk!

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WhatAmIDoing
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Post by WhatAmIDoing »

The carpet just tucks under the console. There's not really any adhesive holding it down. Removing the console is easier than you think. I watched Robert's video and it took me less than 10 minutes in the junkyard.
'98 S70 T5M - 323,000mi - awaiting heart transplant :shock:
'98 V70 T5M - 324,000mi - my new project
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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

crlande wrote: 05 Mar 2023, 11:44 Yup! Plenty of the car wiring is run along both sides of carpet doors areas. Stereo, fuel pump, brake lights, etc. Open doors, pull up the snap in place plastic sill kick plate, pull up carpet and you will see tons of wiring, Some enclosed in plastic cases. Carpet folds back down easily. Also, you will need to pull up carpet when you replace the heater core eventually. Cake walk!
Hi,

Well thank you i'll look into this.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
1998 v70, non turbo, FWD, base model, on the road from April 2nd, 2015 to July 26, 2023.

User avatar
MrAl
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Location: New Jersey
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Post by MrAl »

WhatAmIDoing wrote: 05 Mar 2023, 11:48 The carpet just tucks under the console. There's not really any adhesive holding it down. Removing the console is easier than you think. I watched Robert's video and it took me less than 10 minutes in the junkyard.
Hi,

Ok ill watch the video today and comment here.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
1998 v70, non turbo, FWD, base model, on the road from April 2nd, 2015 to July 26, 2023.

User avatar
MrAl
Posts: 1700
Joined: 8 April 2015
Year and Model: v70, 1998
Location: New Jersey
Has thanked: 83 times
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Post by MrAl »

scot850 wrote: 04 Mar 2023, 18:48 Take the console out. It takes about 6 screws and a bit of jiggling to get the 2 x seat heater switches out and the center coin tray. Having done this many times I can probably do this in about 10 mins max.

There are probably instructions here somewhere on how to do this. The one thing I find helps is to remove the ash tray first (2 x T25 screws either side near the top when the tray is open. Putting the car in Neutral (wheels chocked) helps to remove the ashtray, then pry the coin holder out (from the rear if I remember right) and then the front of the center tray behind it (2 plastic tags either end nearest the gear shift).
There are 2 m ore T25 screws at the very front of the console that have to be removed.

Then you can push up the heated seat switches from below and disconnect the 2 harnesses.

Next remove the parking brake boot. The panel it is connected to swivels outward from the front by the gearshift sideways. The console lid needs to be open for this. With the boot panel loose, it will slide the boot over the parking brake.

Lastly there are 2 x 8mm socket head bolts under the little panel under the arm rest at the front of the cubby. A flat blade screw driver pops that out and the 2 bolts are under there. Snap the front edges of the sides outward on both sides. Finally there are 2 wiring harness plugs that have to be undone under the parking brake cover recess. There is a button on the tops you have to push down on and then they may need prying to remove.

The console now lifts out. Lift it from the rear and carefully lift it and move it backwards and up watching the front to make sure the gearshift hole clears the gearshift (still keep it in neutral until this is complete).

Now you have loads of room to see what you need to do.

Here is Robert DIY's video:



Trying to drill it while in is dangerous due to the wiring harnesses under there.

Neil.
Hi again,

Thanks for the link, very interesting. I can see it is not that big of a job so i will probably attempt it. I can run the wire right under that plastic. Should be "easy peasy" as in the video ha ha.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
1998 v70, non turbo, FWD, base model, on the road from April 2nd, 2015 to July 26, 2023.

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