Liquid Moly engine flush? Volvo 850 1996

[BeerDeer]

Hi there,

I'm currently dealing with a rather noisy "lifter" issue in my 1996 Volvo 850. I've been recommended to use Liquid Moly engine flush to address the problem. However, I'm a bit concerned about whether using this product could potentially exacerbate any oil leaks. My uncle, who is a mechanic, mentioned that older cars are prone to leaks, and indeed, my Volvo 850 does require me to top up around 1L of oil every 2-4 months. Despite this, I've been unable to locate the source of the leak. Upon inspection, it seems to be originating from the front part down of the engine, possibly from a rear seal, but I lack the expertise to confirm this.

I'm keen on keeping this car in good shape, so any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

You can also check out the details of the noisy "lifter" at viewtopic.php?t=103812.

Engine Number: B5254S

Thank you for your help.

[Krons]

I worry about dislodging too much sludge and clogging oil pickup tubes and small oil lube passages with an engine flush. I have had good results with Marvel Mystery oil at 1/2 qt for an oil change interval or two. Works slower and oil turns black over time showing it works to break up the crud slowly.

Research I did shows it is the equivalent of 5 weight so you can bump to a thicker oil if in a warmer climate.

All that said…If you’ve been diligent on oil change intervals and don’t short trip the car likely no harm in doing a Liquimoly engine flush as there probably is not sludge to worry about.

[454cid]

After watching Lake Speed Jr's videos I'm not going to run additives in my oil anymore, unless it's shortly before I change the oil. What happens is that additives dilute the oil manufacturers built in additives to the oil (oil is never just oil). Just like the dose makes the poison, or the medicine, the oil manufactures additives make the oil what it is. That's also why mixing oils isn't a good idea, as each oil can have a different plan for it's function, and the two oils can work against each other.

In the case of a sludged up engine, maybe run an additive for a 100 miles or so, depending on how much you drive.... for me 100 miles would be one trip to work and back. Then run a good synthetic oil and do shorter change intervals.

[MoVolvos]

After watching Lake Speed Jr's videos I'm not going to run additives in my oil anymore, unless it's shortly before I change the oil. What happens is that additives dilute the oil manufacturers built in additives to the oil (oil is never just oil). Just like the dose makes the poison, or the medicine, the oil manufactures additives make the oil what it is. That's also why mixing oils isn't a good idea, as each oil can have a different plan for it's function, and the two oils can work against each other.

In the case of a sludged up engine, maybe run an additive for a 100 miles or so, depending on how much you drive.... for me 100 miles would be one trip to work and back. Then run a good synthetic oil and do shorter change intervals.

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The Lake Speed Jr video had me changing my mind also so no more than 6 months and hopefully less than 5K miles per change.

I just purchased the last 20 bottles of the Swepco 502 Close Out so it no longer shows in their system. I have use it for many years but stopped due to the cost and after COVID the price was insane. Was doing research for a Post and found the Close Out. I also purchased a few other Close Out products and after playing around with their shipping calculator found it was cheaper to split the order.
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SWEPCO 502 Premium Engine Oil Improver
SKU: FL-SW502 Qty 10 $70.00
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Manufacturer Direct Closeouts
https://www.pscmotorsports.com/manufact ... -closeouts

The 502 helped cleaned up while creating the Tribofilm so a friend's Benz which sat for 4 years, after 500 miles of use in clean oil passed CA Smog Test. Cleaned and sealed so improved compression and less blowby.

https://www.amazon.com/502-Engine-Impro ... 121&sr=8-1

Film Thickness and Friction of ZDDP Tribofilms - Blended properly no friction issue from the increase in MPG experienced.
https://link.springer.com/article/10.10 ... 019-1148-9

https://www.swepcolube.com/products/swe ... -improver/
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[Krons]

After watching Lake Speed Jr's videos I'm not going to run additives in my oil anymore, unless it's shortly before I change the oil. What happens is that additives dilute the oil manufacturers built in additives to the oil (oil is never just oil). Just like the dose makes the poison, or the medicine, the oil manufactures additives make the oil what it is. That's also why mixing oils isn't a good idea, as each oil can have a different plan for it's function, and the two oils can work against each other.

In the case of a sludged up engine, maybe run an additive for a 100 miles or so, depending on how much you drive.... for me 100 miles would be one trip to work and back. Then run a good synthetic oil and do shorter change intervals.

I am in this camp now too. Outside of de-sludging I’d sometimes get a 5 qt of regular synthetic on sale, then add a 16 oz bottle of STP high mileage and 16 oz of 15w40 diesel oil to top up. That darn 6 qt sump…. Given my 3-4000 mile intervals I probably didn’t do any harm.

He has got me buying the same high mileage synthetic for all 6 qts, it’s the better path.

[Caesium]

To answer why your engine is having a lifter tick issue, I'd bet it's the oil pickup tube seals and the oil pan seals. They go hard and suck in partially and cause a loss of oil pressure.

Additives really won't cure this in my experience. To drop the pan is pretty simple, it took me about 6 hours to get it off, get it clean, the reattach it.

[duke1]

hi all this subject interests me as in my early days of motoring the normal route was a simple flushing oil which was just a cheap mineral 20/w50 with extra detergents added this was used after draining the oil and ran for 15-20 mins at 2000 rpm then drained then new oil added,often looking in the drain tray after this flush gave you an idea of the inside of the engine oilways etc,it was cheap and worked fine.
now i have tested several variants of the engine flushes i was gifted a bunch from a rep and can report most are little or no better than the cheap flushing oil,best thing i have found is a good old fashioned italian style tune up!my old 855 spent the day getting thrashed right up to the redline and by time we finished the oil was black as night so i gave her an oil change and new filter in compensation for the abuse and a few thousand miles later the oil is very clean looking much cleaner than ever before when ive checked or changed it,those sustained high revs must have loosened up 28 yrs worth of clag all in one go also car runs better than ever after! a jolly good thrashing,kill or cure!