Lug Wrench Causality

[Zimbo]

Replaced my rear brakes and rotors this weekend, have done this many times before on other cars first time for the Volvo. Reviewed the write-ups posted by MadeInJapan and Ozark Lee made for an easy repair, thanks guys! The hardest part was breaking the lug nuts free, I broke 1 lug wrench and bent the volvo wrench. (Probably why I had warped rotors)


My 4 way lug wrench wasn't an expensive tool but it served me well over the past 20 years.

I've read about the need to use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts down properly, any recommendations out there?
Do you use anything on your lugs (a little WD40?) to help prevent seize up when you reinstall them?

Thanks!

[850FLA]

If you want to prevent your lug nuts from seizing use anti seize compound. Use a breaker bar and a socket and hand tighten then go an extra 1/4 turn. Use a star pattern. You can use a torque wrench as well [for installation only] I don't know the values for your car.

[meine39]

I managed to break and bend the same tools you did about a month ago. Being an overachiever , I continued on to break a ratchet, a 19mm deep socket, and two socket adapters (thankfully Sears replacement policy took care of those). I finally gave up and took the car to my mechanic, who broke it free with an impact wrench (they were the last ones to have the wheels off).

I bought the following torque wrench from Tirerack about 5 years ago. Not the most precise torque wrench out there, but ok IMO for lugs:

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=75

[MadeInJapan]

I have a similar torque wrench- Harbor Freight is cheap!

[Ozark Lee]

The correct torque spec is 81 lb./ft. It seems light but I have been able to get the wheels off on the road as necessary. The anti-seize is a good idea as well.

When the monkeys at the tire shop just lay on the lugs with an impact wrench it darn near breaks my 4 way trying to get them off.

I bought a fold up four way wrench for my wife's car just so that she would have a chance in case of a failure on the road.

My experience with the factory lug wrench was much the same as yours and it wound up looking like a pretzel the one time I tried to use it.

...Lee

[wheelsup]

I've recently read you're not supposed to but anti-seize on lug nuts because it alters the torque applied and can result in other issues.

That being said I've done it for around 3 years on my Volvo and haven't noticed any ill effects. It makes taking the lug nuts off a lot easier. The first time I removed my lug nuts I couldn't get them off with a 3 foot long 1/2" breaker bar. I bought one of those 12V powered impact guns at Wal-Mart and believe it or not that did the trick after hitting the nuts for 1-2 mins per nut.

I bought a 1/2" torque wrench at Advance Auto for $38, it seems to do well.

[LowEnergyParticle]

Look, I don't mean to present myself as some kind of expert...far from it! But, I can contribute something here, so I'll butt in if that's OK?

Lug nut torques are always (well, I THINK always: at least very, very usually) given as a dry thread specification, that is, with no lubricant of any kind on either side of the thread. Butt nekkid, as it were. No dry film lubes, no grease, oil, or anti-seize. Nuthin'.

Lubricating a thread makes a SPECTACULAR difference in how much the bolt is stretched for a given torque. A bolt installed with 81 ft-lb with lubrication is a much-further-stretched bolt than one installed at 81 ft-lb without any lubrication.

Without wanting to be a fear-monger, I'd suggest that if you have lubricant of some sort on your lugs, it might be worth your while to pull the lugs and clean out the threaded holes in the hub with brake cleaner or the solvent of your choice.

I hope this helps!
Dave

[matthew1]

Dave, very interesting info. Butt in any time.

Question: would there be a formula to calculate how many pound-feet to use if you leave your lugs lubricated? Would it be more or less?

Or is this splitting hairs, and "just get rid of the lubrication" and keep things simple?

[BEJinFbk]

Another uneducated, seat of the pants theory of mine:

These are guidelines meant to assure Consistency in torquing.
If they had to be truly precise, I think we'd hear about many more accidents.

Using the star pattern, a little oil on the threads and maintaining
reasonable consistency has always done just fine at my house.
Just my 2 cents...

[confused_al]

Its funny, I just had a lengthy debate with my fellow engineer friend on this topic.
My point is the torque we tighten lug bolts should be static state, not dynamic state. Therefore any thing that only reduces dynamic resistance (when you turning the bolt), such as grease or any other forms, will not change the torque at final resting state (after bolt stopped turning).

Do you guys think I won that debate?