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Lug Removal Using Torque Wrench

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

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Eddystone
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Lug Removal Using Torque Wrench

Post by Eddystone »

(I'm aware that tools should be used for their proper purpose, etc, etc, etc, etc)

General Poll:

I'm thinking of giving my son a cheap Harbor Freight 1/2" torques wrench and appropriate socket to keep in his trunk in case he has a flat. We all know the lug removal tool supplied by the manufacturer is useless if a repair shop has had your wheel off and impact wrenched them back on. The click-type torque wrench is long enough to allow him to remove the lugs and accurate enough to get him close to the proper torque when he reinstalls them.

I wouldn't use a high quality torque wrench for lug removal, but for rare use when a spare needs to be installed on the road, I'm thinking a click-type torque wrench that hits a mechanical limit if pressed beyond the click will bear up to the torque and the release of the lug when it breaks free with little damage to the torque wrench or its calibration. It won't be used for anything other than this.

Using it in this manner once or twice in a blue moon isn't any big deal, is it?

Yes, I could get him a breaker bar, as well, but that's just one more thing to bounce around in the trunk.

Will I go to hell for using a $12 (with coupon) torque wrench in this manner?
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Post by RickHaleParker »

Extra force on band or click style torque wrench can throw them out of calibration.

Bind a breaker bar to the torque wrench case (two sided Velcro straps with one end super glued to the back of the case) and it won't bounce around in the trunk. Also the breaker bar will give you a place to store the socket your need also without it bouncing around and getting lost.
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Post by j-dawg »

To question the premise a bit - and this is my second time doing so in my last two posts on this forum, so forgive me for being a know-it-all - I wouldn't even bother with a torque wrench. Every spare tire kit in every car has a simple dumb lug wrench rather than anything that could measure a particular torque. Good'n'snug on the breaker bar will get you back home and to the tire shop without any worries.
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Post by PS78 »

I'd vote for getting a good size 4 way lug wrench. Force of your body to loosen stubborn lugs, and the quick spins to get them out and back in quickly. Less time someone's knelt down, vulnerable, on the shoulder of a road the better. The other thing is if Tire places or shops are hammering your lugs back on, I wouldn't use them. I went through that before having stripped threads and broken studs. there's places that don't do that. Even Walmart of all places finishes the tightening properly with a torque wrench.
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Post by RickHaleParker »

"Good'n'snug on the breaker bar will get you back home and to the tire shop without any worries."

Does not give a Dad, peace of mind. This is to make sure his son makes it home in one piece.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

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Post by abscate »

The show stopper for a flat is usually getting the nuts/bolts off, not getting reasonable torque

HF sells a decent extendable lug nut wrench , we keep one in every car.

You can make sure your petite drivers can get them off by torquing to 60 ft lbs with lube.

My ladies range from a petit 5.00 feet who needs a breaker bar and foot to break free lug nuts to a 6 foot/180 pounder who can twist them off with her fingers.
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Post by oragex »

Eddystone wrote: 14 Dec 2017, 16:19
Will I go to hell for using a $12 (with coupon) torque wrench in this manner?

Maybe (symbolically speaking). I don't trust when I read 'cheap' before a torque wrench. These tools are all but reliable when poorly made. By not reliable I mean, you will have a lug at 100 ft. lbs. and the next one at 75 ft. lbs. or worse. Not good when it comes to wheel lugs which need to have all very similar torque numbers (think lugs that loosen up while driving).

It is a good idea to get a torque wrench for the wheel lugs. Keep in mind that because of corrosion on the wheel lug seat, the torque for these lugs may be hard to set uniformly on all 5 lugs. This adds to the imprecision of a torque wrench.

A used quality torque wrench is not much and it's a good investment for safety.

Don't forget to check the lugs after a short drive in the city after some strong braking (strongly advise not to take the highway before this check). And also never add any lubricant on the lugs or at the lug seat on the wheel. Even better clean the lugs off with some wire brush and some acetone before putting them back.

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Post by Eddystone »

j-dawg wrote: 14 Dec 2017, 17:11 To question the premise a bit - and this is my second time doing so in my last two posts on this forum, so forgive me for being a know-it-all - I wouldn't even bother with a torque wrench. Every spare tire kit in every car has a simple dumb lug wrench rather than anything that could measure a particular torque. Good'n'snug on the breaker bar will get you back home and to the tire shop without any worries.
The problem is mainly having something that will get the lug loose after someone has torqued it to 200 lb-ft with an impact gun. The factory lug wrench in my V70 is useless for that. A throw-away $12 torque wrench would get these off and then back on in a reasonable tight and equally tight manner.
1998 V70 Non-Turbo/Auto The Perfect Driving Appliance
1993 945 Turbo/Auto Pickemup Truck that Will Not Die. New 960 seats!
1999 S70 T5 Turbo/Auto which is better than Abscate's T5
All U.S. market models.
All running and on the road.
PM me if you are in Ohio. I'm in Lorain.

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Eddystone
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Post by Eddystone »

RickHaleParker wrote: 14 Dec 2017, 16:47 Extra force on band or click style torque wrench can throw them out of calibration.

Bind a breaker bar to the torque wrench case (two sided Velcro straps with one end super glued to the back of the case) and it won't bounce around in the trunk. Also the breaker bar will give you a place to store the socket your need also without it bouncing around and getting lost.
It's a $12 torque wrench being used for nothing but the occasional wheel removal and nothing else. How far off could the calibration be versus my own usual "feels about right" method?
1998 V70 Non-Turbo/Auto The Perfect Driving Appliance
1993 945 Turbo/Auto Pickemup Truck that Will Not Die. New 960 seats!
1999 S70 T5 Turbo/Auto which is better than Abscate's T5
All U.S. market models.
All running and on the road.
PM me if you are in Ohio. I'm in Lorain.

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Post by cn90 »

- If you are worried about the shop over-torquing the lugs, then loose them all and retorque them properly now. This makes removal much easier. I always use a dab of grease on the lugs for the last 25 years.

- Here is my trick: carry a breaker bar and appropriate socket, this is much better than factory tool.

- During tightening: hand-tight until snug using only 1 finger for all 5 lugs.

- Then torque it another 45 degrees, which should bring to you 100Nm range, which is the torque for most cars. Or do your own experiment with the proper torque wrench and find out how many degrees you have to turn (from snug position) to achieve the proper torque. Then write a note and leave it in the trunk spare time compartment saying "snug, then another 45 degrees etc.". This way when you replace the tire in the middle of nowhere, you have a reminder note ready.
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