p1171/ p1181

maverick · Post by **maverick** » 06 Mar 2009, 23:07

hey guys, new to the site. i'm hoping to get some help with problems. My check engine light has come on in my '01 s80 t6. I have sprayed carb cleaner on the vacuum lines and intake trying to find a vacuum leak and cannot find one. I have also replaced the injector seals and cleared the codes. I drove for about a week, then the light came back on, same codes. Obd2 scan shows it hapening at low rpm. What is going on here? Anybody else delt with this?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 07 Mar 2009, 02:05

Welcome to MVS.
Other sites show the codes you are getting to be related to either a MAF sensor going bad or an ETM going bad. On your car, there is an ETM (electronic throttle module). It is a part that is known to go bad and is currently under a 10 year/200K mile free replacement if the dealer determines that it is the cause of your problems.

maverick · Post by **maverick** » 07 Mar 2009, 18:18

well, I was hoping to avoid the dealer for cost reasons. Im not the original owner of the car, bought it used. Will this waranty pass over to me? This car and I have a love/ hate relationship lately. I had to have a trans put in 6 months ago, did a wheel bearing last month, and forsee timing belt in another 7k. My etm has a white tag, so is that the original? The car has 97,000 miles. I just want to as informed as possible so the dealer can't try to pull a fast one on me. I do most of my own wrenching, but this sounds like it needs to be hooked up to a computer.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 07 Mar 2009, 19:51

Yes, the ETM warranty does transfer to other owners and yes, the white tag is the original ETM. Take it in and if they give you the "you'll have to pay for cleaning and diagnostics, etc." line, then you might want to consider the new non-contacting ETM replacement by XeMODeX. Information about them is pinned at the top of the P2 car section.

maverick · Post by **maverick** » 08 Mar 2009, 03:09

Is there a way to cross reference the generic obd2 codes with vadis without a volvo scan? I'd like to know what it says. My car isnt surging or stalling like symptoms of etm fault show. Can I make the dealer replace the etm at no charge under the warranty because it is a known problem with these cars, even though it may not be my current problem? In my opinion it should be taken care of regardless. Can I test the maf sensor at home with a multimeter? Thanks for the help so far. Hopefully I can be of assistance to someone someday about these cars.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 08 Mar 2009, 07:07

maverick wrote:Can I make the dealer replace the etm at no charge under the warranty because it is a known problem with these cars, even though it may not be my current problem?

At first, Volvo was making owners jump through a bunch of hoops- charging them to clean the throttle body, making them drive their effected car until the ETS (Electronic Throttle System) fault codes were obvious along with driveability issues- then all of a sudden, if there was even a suspicion of the ETM, they would just change them out. Now, apparently there is sort of a back-log of the ETM units from Sweden and so the dealers are in a delay mode. They seem to be back to having the customer jump through hoops again- have them pay for the throttle cleaning- loading up the new #151 software...and only changing out the ETM after all other "fixes" have been tried and have failed. At least this seems to be the standard. However, it has been reported that there are a few decent dealers out there with ETM's sitting on their shelves who don't blink twice to go ahead and change the ETM out. Either way, apparently now with the backlog of the units coming from Sweden, all dealers have to check with Volvo of North America before an ETM replacement can be authorized- something that (from my understanding) wasn't going on a year ago. My guess is that due to the shortage of these units, ETM units get pulled from one dealership to another on a "needs basis."

Anyway, try your dealer- see what they say. Even if you aren't having driveability issues now, claim that you are- that the car suddenly surges sometimes and seems to want to cut out at highway speeds. Stress how dangerous this is when you are traveling, especially with your family- and make it clear that you know about this on-going issue (and that even with the software update, people's ETM's are failing) and DEMAND a replacement. You never know- you might have one of these dealers who is wiling to go ahead, quickly with the exchange, without putting you through the ringer first.

maverick · Post by **maverick** » 08 Mar 2009, 13:26

thanks for the help. You guys are very helpful. I have not been able to find much info. about this car, other than complaints. I will let you know what the dealer says when I bring it in. It probably wont be for a few days. Thanks again.

Post by **billofdurham** » 08 Mar 2009, 14:00

Is there a way to cross reference the generic obd2 codes with vadis without a volvo scan?

Yes.

Go to the engine page for your car. Click on Diagnostic information > General Diagnostics and Tests > General 20 > Conversion table standardized diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs)/Volvo diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) > Continue and there they are.

This does not apply to all models. I have found the S/V40 does not give the conversion codes for some of the variants.

Bill.

maverick · Post by **maverick** » 09 Mar 2009, 23:39

Well, I called the dealer today and talked to the service guy. He wouldn't really give me any answers. I aked about th etm and he told me they had to clean it first, they had procedure to follow. It sounded as if they were going to do what they could to avoid replacing it. I told him I knew of the problems. He told me that they wouldnt replace it just because I wanted it replaced unless it proved to be bad, regardless of symptoms. Of course its $52 to hook to their computer(he said my generic codes didnt mean anything, he needs to see his volvo codes), and "around a few hundred to clean the etm". Then I go home and wait for it fail. Meanwhile he tells me it ok to drive with the light on, it wont hurt my car at all. I'm not to sure about dealing with them. It just feels like I'm going to end up getting bandaged until the warranty expires. Any thoughts?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 10 Mar 2009, 05:05

The typical stalling/run around- just to be replaced with another eventual failing unit (after dishing out hundreds). You might go ahead and bite the bullet for the new non-contacting, non-volvo ETM that won't fail (shipped to your door for under $600). Still a lot of money but peace of mind and not wasting your time may be well worth it.