volvo 850 transmission problems

agedabeatjunkie · Post by **agedabeatjunkie** » 30 Jun 2009, 14:01

when i was driving last night my transmission started acting funny and would only run in third gear. No check engine or orange arrow popped up.When i parked it and started it again the problem disappeared for a block and then returned. when i got home i realized that the car was not engaging into reverse or drive unless i turned the car on and off, on and off. upon inspection of the transmission fluid, the levels were normal but the fluid was dark brown with black crud and had a disgusting odor to it. Ive also recently discovered that my gear selector button was making a clicking noise and wasn't locking it in place (it slides but needs some force to accidentally go from D to R),and now the button wont even make that noise. Ive talked to a few other Volvo owners who have had the same problem with the trans not locking but haven't had any problems.

will replacing the button fix the gear selector, allowing it to lock into place?

the transmission needs to be flushed regardless but would the old fluid be enough of a problem to cause the car to go into 3rd gear "limp-mode"? (i can understand that it would cause the engagement problems on the gear selector)

also my mechanic mentioned something about replacing a filter (i think hes confused however because i cant find transmission filter for a 850)

can you help me out and show me a tutorial on flushing the trans myself and offer some advice?/knowledge?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 30 Jun 2009, 16:19

Does the orange up arrow light come on when you put the key to position II? The light might be burned out.

With the exception of the reverse problem it sounds like a PNP switch going out but you may actually have some problems with the TCU. Get the codes read. Volvos will post codes even without the CEL.

Your mechanic is correct, there is no transmission filter on an 850.

Avoid driving the car in this condition as much as possible as limp mode is very tough on the transmission.

Depending on your mileage you may just want to do a series of drain and fills and put 100 miles or so on the car in between the drain and fills rather than a flush. It eventually gets you to about the same place but it doesn't dislodge as much stuff all at once that can lead to seal leaks and stuck solenoids.

...Lee

agedabeatjunkie · Post by **agedabeatjunkie** » 30 Jun 2009, 18:31

The CEL and Orange arrow work and are not up. ill take a reading when i have the chance.

do you have a tutorial on how to do the drain and fills?

Craigd2599 · Post by **Craigd2599** » 30 Jun 2009, 21:07

That one is easy...it's just what it says. get a large drain pan and about a gallon of synthetic trans fluid. Your trans drain plug is on the drivers side. Drain the sump, replace the plug and fill it up with an equal amount of fresh fluid. Start the engine, warm her up and then you might want to gow through the selector. Start off in 1 drive it slowly in 1 for 2 minutes and then go to 2, repeat and then go to D. Like he said, put about 100 miles on it and then do it again. repeat the process at 100 mile intervals until the fluid looks fresh and pink. Thats the safer bet when you have a higher mileage car.

agedabeatjunkie · Post by **agedabeatjunkie** » 01 Jul 2009, 15:23

strangely i cant find my TCU to get the codes. its normally next to the wiper fluid but it seems its non existent in my car.
help?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 01 Jul 2009, 16:21

On a '96 the ECU/TCU codes are read via an OBD-II scanner tool. Most of the chain auto parts stores will either read them for free or "rent" you a scan tool. They charge your credit card the price of the tool and then credit it back 100% when you return it. If you strike out there Harbor freight sells one that sets and resets codes for around $40.00.

Your OBD-II port is underneath the coin tray in front of the shifter.

...Lee

agedabeatjunkie · Post by **agedabeatjunkie** » 02 Jul 2009, 00:16

oh, i was confused seeing a thread that said the codes could be read from the flashing red light in the engine bay on 95's. Anyway i drained and filled the atf and drove down the block, stopped and again it wouldent move... i turned it on and off and eventually got D to work in limp mode and then the check engine light went on.....
looks like i have to tow it to my mechanic.

i payed $3500 for a 850glt with 167K but a perfect chasis (no rust) and body with no physical defects, ive put $500 into brakes, sway links,and a MAF. Im pissed off that my transmissions fucked(excuse my french) after owning the car for only 45 days. It was in the shop for 16 of those days. used car dealers can be shady, Im most likely going to take him to court. for the meantime please help with some other advice

agedabeatjunkie · Post by **agedabeatjunkie** » 04 Jul 2009, 01:36

took it too the shop, tranny was missing bolts, and the lines were spliced wrong causing the tranny to overheat. torque converter was shot. cost of fixing it =2000

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 13 Nov 2009, 15:25

U should have looked into a second hand tranny. These trannies are usually very durable. Sorry to hear about your luck, hope it changes soon.

Curtis

Esteban850 · Post by **Esteban850** » 30 Jun 2016, 07:13

I had the same problem. Did many drain and fills. But transmission is shot. 96 850 with 238k...cars due for a new trans. Anybody know where I can find one for a good price with some type of warranty? ? I live in texas.