I have a 2003 s40 with almost 107K and I believe that Volvo specs 108K as the time to change the timing belt. My question is, are these interference engines where the engine will seize if I don't change it? I'm debating ($$) whether to wait till it dies (if that doesn't make a difference) vs. changing it now.
I have a starter question I'll also throw up separately. This place rules!!
Timing belt change- schedule?
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casualcoma
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 23 November 2009
- Year and Model: 2003 s40
- Location: NJ
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billofdurham
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It is an interference engine and you will need a major rebuild if the belt snaps. The scheduled change is at 105,000 so you are over the top now.
Bill.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Bill is right, do it now!
I'm at 95k / 10 years old now and did mine yesterday. It was dried and cracking. It is not just wear you have to worry about but age as well. They do dry-rot and that leads to internal degridation. Its a bit of a pain, yes, but I would rather do it when it's due rather than realizing you'll have to replace it anyhow when you are bolting a new head on...
I wouldn't run a T-belt over 90k. 60k is usually going to be a safe bet. The technology in the belts is getting better, but until they are proven good for 250k miles, it really isn't bad to have to do it a couple times over the life of the car.
No matter how you look at it, the day or so of personal time or the $500 to get it done are always better than the time and money you would be out of doing a rebuild.
And the issue is a bent or broken valve. You might have to replace a piston if it's severly damaged by hitting a valve, which is likely, worse case is it snaps a valve off. That will require that cylinder (whole engine rebuild at this point) be bored. I have heard of a piston being split which cracked the block (here, it will certainly seize). A new engine isn't cheap and used ones have their own set of concerns to ponder. Not trying to scare you, just letting ya know it's a critical item to stay on top of.
Just my $.02.
Mark
I'm at 95k / 10 years old now and did mine yesterday. It was dried and cracking. It is not just wear you have to worry about but age as well. They do dry-rot and that leads to internal degridation. Its a bit of a pain, yes, but I would rather do it when it's due rather than realizing you'll have to replace it anyhow when you are bolting a new head on...
I wouldn't run a T-belt over 90k. 60k is usually going to be a safe bet. The technology in the belts is getting better, but until they are proven good for 250k miles, it really isn't bad to have to do it a couple times over the life of the car.
No matter how you look at it, the day or so of personal time or the $500 to get it done are always better than the time and money you would be out of doing a rebuild.
And the issue is a bent or broken valve. You might have to replace a piston if it's severly damaged by hitting a valve, which is likely, worse case is it snaps a valve off. That will require that cylinder (whole engine rebuild at this point) be bored. I have heard of a piston being split which cracked the block (here, it will certainly seize). A new engine isn't cheap and used ones have their own set of concerns to ponder. Not trying to scare you, just letting ya know it's a critical item to stay on top of.
Just my $.02.
Mark
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