Control Arm replacement: do you grease the balljoint?

Post by **jreed** » 22 Feb 2011, 13:39

I'm getting ready to replace the left and right control arms on my '97 855 GLT and wonder if you have to apply grease to the new balljoint before installing it into the steering knuckle? Any advice would be helpful! Thanks!

Post by **jblackburn** » 22 Feb 2011, 13:50

Yes. A small bit of silicone grease will do them well.

Post by **jreed** » 23 Feb 2011, 02:08

Thanks! I had been thinking of cleaning out the knuckle and then using a wheel bearing grease and hadn't thought of using silicone grease. Thanks.

Mike850 · Post by **Mike850** » 30 May 2012, 11:07

I'm doing the same with my '97: replacing both control arms. I bought TRWs (OEM replacements). Inside the steering knuckle it is rusty. So I have used a scotch brite pad and WD-40 to clean out the rust. So silicon grease? I've got some of that blue marine waterproof grease that goes on boat trailers. What about that? I have not read or seen anything that says to grease or not, but I figured it would keep it quieter and repel rust. Thoughts?

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 May 2012, 11:42

That should work great.

Mike850 · Post by **Mike850** » 30 May 2012, 12:21

Thanks J,
I actually finished the replacement before seeing this thread. So I did not put grease on the ball joint "nipple" but WD40. I replaced both control arms and sway bar end links (with the heavy duty 12mm ones from IPD). This was to eliminate a ton of rattling in the front suspension.

Although quieter, I'm still hearing rattling. (Spring seats and all that were replaced about a couple years ago so they should be good). But I'm thinking it's probably the tie rod end links? What is the check for that? Is it jack up the wheel and wiggle at the 12 and 6 or the 9 and 3 position?

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 May 2012, 12:40

Sway bar links? Yeah, they'll rattle a lot if the ball joints are loose or they're not properly torqued down (they must be torqued down with a jack under the control arm to simulate ride height of the vehicle).

Take the back end of a hammer and tug them from one side to the other and see if they move at all.

Tie rods usually don't cause rattling - just sloppy steering.

Mike850 · Post by **Mike850** » 30 May 2012, 14:20

Great tip on the jack under the control arm applying upward pressure while torquing the end links! I did not do that. I simply connected them and tightened them. I didn't see there was any "wiggle room" once torqued fully down.

On the other hand when installing the control arms, I did however let the weight of the car down on the ball joint then tightened it so they were seated and in the same position as when driving. I read that if you simply insert the ball joint nipple into the steering knuckle arm without applying upward pressure (with either a jack or by setting the car down like I did) the ball joint is not fully seated and can fail prematurely.

So I will grab the HD end links this evening after work to see if they can wiggle any. If so, I will apply your method. Thanks man- you're the best!

Post by **Matty Moo** » 30 May 2012, 15:03

I always put anti seize on the ball joint and every bolt. Our roads get paved with salt in the winter so it's almost a must.

Post by **rspi** » 30 May 2012, 18:21

Mike850 wrote:On the other hand when installing the control arms, I did however let the weight of the car down on the ball joint then tightened it so they were seated and in the same position as when driving. I read that if you simply insert the ball joint nipple into the steering knuckle arm without applying upward pressure (with either a jack or by setting the car down like I did) the ball joint is not fully seated and can fail prematurely.

It's best to set the control arm before tightening the frame bolts. If you tighten the bolts with the arm hanging down, the neutral position will be down, when you let the car down, it will put a torqueing pressure on the bushings causing them to fail fast. They may last 12 months instead of 10 years.