Squealing Window - Liquid Wrench?

[StL_PoopyPants]

Hello and Yay it's Friday,

When I roll my window down, it squeals something crazy. There are some marks on the window that look like it is hitting against something. The movement is otherwise normal. If I let some silicone spray drip down on the edges of the window, do you think it will help? I don't trust myself taking the door apart.

[LiquidWrench]

My name is Dr. Larry Beaver, and I'm the lead chemist at Liquid Wrench. Great question about your window.

Silicone spray will likely streak the window and be difficult to clean off any excess. Run down the window and spray the tracks with our Liquid Wrench Dry Lube, then let dry. Run window up and down a few times to work the dry lube powder into the tracks. Wipe excess dry lube from glass (use some Gunk(r) window cleaner if necessary). If the squeak still won't go away, it means the glass is grinding against an exposed area of metal track where the track lining has likely worn away. In that case, the only fix is to replace the section of track lining. Many auto parts stores sell replacement window track lining just for this purpose.

Hope this helps.

Dr. Beaver

[jimmy57]

Any of the products listed as freeing rusty fasteners have little lubricant and a lot of more solvent like chemicals that try to carry the lubricant into the threads of the fastener. This action is the "penetrant" part of the product. WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. often will make somethings you attempt to lubricate actually bind up.
I have used silicone and dry lube products and both worked well but both were only successful when the product was sprayed into the channel by using the provided spray tubes inserted into the spray nozzle. This allows the spray to reach distant areas as the spray comes out in a stream as opposed to brodcast mist direct from nozzle.

[MoVolvos]

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You mentioned Mark on the Glass. Take a piece of thinning worn T-Shirt and fold it smoothly onto a thin wide metal putty knife and insert into the Glass when it is half way up. Careful it is between the glass and outer molding/window seal and do not force it as the seal will fold under the glass. Slide it back and forth to remove years of dirt/debris and potentially tiny rock that is causing the Mark and Noise. Only do this when it is dry! The Silicone is good for all the rubber seals and side tracks but not on the glass seal (messy). The liquid wrench should (not knowing it's composition) provide more of a permanent lubrication on the side tracks than silicone.

Blessings,
BKM
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[fazool]

BKM offered the best advice, in my opinion.

But it isnt clear if the squeal is from glass-on-rubber rubbing, glass-on-metal (as Dr. Beaver alluded to) or the mechanism itself (metal-on-metal).

On another note, Jimmy is correct, Liquid Wrench et. al. are penetrating lubricants - intended to enter and travel (through very low surface tension) into very small spaces. Its a specialty fluid and not a general lubricant. And a general lubricant on your glass is just very messy. On another note, WD-40 is a totally different class of specialty fluid - its a water displacer, originally intended to "dry" electrical components/wires/contacts. BTW, their secret ingredient is fish oil.

[yuckuJackD]

Hey men, your problem most likely is in this part:



part number: 3509416
Just have a look at this galley and you'll get where it is and how to replace them. There are 2 of them in a door. It's good idea to replace them on both front doos so you'll need 4 pieces.
Ebay seller
Ebay seller, but here in Bulgaria the official VOLVO dealer sells them for 5 BGN, meaning 3.2USD. Or about 13 USD per 4 pieces.
Good Luck


p.p. Hell, I got to make a repair manual for this procedure some day... I got all the photos needed, so all it's left is to use goole translator for helping me in my poor English...

[LiquidWrench]

Looks like you're on your way to solving the root of the issue! I just wanted to make a few comments on the penetrating oil comments above, in case you need to use them on other projects:

Penetrating oil made with fast-evaporating solvents is primarily a thing of the past. Most products have much lower volatility nowadays, due to customer demand for higher performance, less smelly products and state and federal regulations that limit the volatility of consumer products.

Our Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil (Part numbers L106, L112, and L105) contains only a fraction of the solvent it once did, and even that fraction is now very low volatility. In fact, our current Penetrating Oil has nearly zero volatility as defined by the California Air Resources Board. This has not been an easy task, because a good penetrating oil is more than a low viscosity solvent. To remove stuck fasteners, a penetrating oil must be low in viscosity to penetrate, low in surface tension to soak into microscopic cracks in the rusted threads, and high in solvency to penetrate through grease, grime, and oil. It should also offer high lubricity to prevent galling, (jamming) of the fastener as it is backed off of the threads.

There are other products on the market that make ridiculous claims based on overdoing one or more of these properties (such as a solvency shown in a competitor's Styrofoam(r) cup demo), but we are the only manufacturer to understand these various (and often competing) interactions and produce a penetrating oil that works quickly with low odor and good lubricity while not harming paint or posing an exposure issue to the consumer.

Great conversation, thanks for letting me join!

Dr. Beaver