No rear brakes

2-3 heaven · Post by **2-3 heaven** » 15 Jun 2012, 22:56

I just picked up an 83 242 Turbo, and having just done the timing belt and resetting the timing, thanks to this forum, I took it over for state/im. Everything passed fine except my rear brakes were hardly registering at all. My kids thought it was funny as the shop drove it onto the brake plate like 8 times. Anyway, I got home figuring I'd throw on new pads and be done, but the pads are practically new. Then, naturally I figured I'd bleed it and see. Before I checked the sequence, I started with the right rear as this was the one showing basically no braking. No fluid came out. Doing it manually. Pulled the nipple thinking it was plugged and nothing. Then I checked the sequence and saw that left rear was first and tried that. Same result. Any ideas? These are separate systems. How could this be unless both rear calipers are just frozen or plugged? And, ironically I guess, I figured this would be the one thing that did pass as the brakes work awesome. Or seemed to.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 16 Jun 2012, 00:13

-
Have you tried bleeding the brakes with the engine on? If the rears are not working is the car nose diving excessively if you come to a stop abruptly? Try it but be careful.

Blessings,
BKM
-

2-3 heaven · Post by **2-3 heaven** » 16 Jun 2012, 11:06

Actually bleeding it with the engine on helped on the left rear. It bleeds normally now. Then I did left front top, right front top, then right rear. This is where I still have a problem. Nothing comes out. Even with the bleeder screw removed. Funny thing is the caliper is working. To what extent I can't say, but you can hear the pads move and the rotor stops turning. I tried pulling the pads and gently applying pressure at the pedal, and the pistons move in, but just an 1/8" or so each.

Bigblue · Post by **Bigblue** » 16 Jun 2012, 11:25

It could be any one of several things...I have replaced a lot of ATE rear calipers on 240's and the first thing I would do is to crack the brake pipe fitting loose at the back of the caliper and see if fluid comes out when the brake is applied...If you do this, be very careful, the "B" nut on the brake line often becomes rusted to the line and trying to loosen it will twist the line...You can tell if this is happening because as the nut is cracked loose, it feels "springy", like it wants to retighten by itself...Watch it closely with a bright light and if you see the pipe twisting, stop...If you twist it off, you will have to replace the whole line, and that's not a fun job...You might have to soak it awhile with penetrating oil, then tap the line several times to break out the rust...If the rubber caps on the bleeder fittings are missing, you can be sure the bleeder ports are rusted shut and might be the reason no fluid comes out...My guess is that the calipers are frozen and should be replaced, or at least rebuilt...If the rear circuit of the master cylinder were not working, you would get a warning light, unless, of course, the dual circuit block is shot, or the bulb is burned out...

2-3 heaven · Post by **2-3 heaven** » 17 Jun 2012, 10:45

You were right Bigblue. Replaced the caliper and it was good. Still a little weak, but enough to pass. Think I'll get a power bleeder next and just make sure it's all flushed out. While we're on the subject of the rear brakes, that bolt-on piece hanging off the back of the caliper. Just a weight? Assuming it is there to help with vibration or squeal?

Post by **jimmy57** » 17 Jun 2012, 11:31

noise damper and crash bracket to prevent collapse of body around fuel tank in rear end hits. The pieces sticking down from frame align with those and transmit force to the axle and its mountings in the collision.