Coolant hose pinhole; need help with hose ID (850 turbo)

[DME]

Been losing coolant the last few days, getting progressively worse. Finally tracked it down to this hose:



The red mark indicates the hole...with throttle it's actually spraying coolant up onto the fireall/windshield with the hood up.

I tried to get underneath the car to see where it goes but after a couple hot drips of fluid on my face I figured that could wait a bit.

Can someone please ID this? Is it, as I suspect, the turbo cooling hose? Is it a giant pain in the ass to replace? I can't get in there (yet) to see how many pieces this is comprised of, so any suggestions as to what I should buy are appreciated.

Thanks a ton,

Dave

[DME]

Also just noticed the little cracked hose and oily? residue around the greent circle. Whassat?!

[DME]

Well, let me partially answer my own question. Appears that I need:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... gory_id/80

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... gory_id/80

Do I also need:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... gory_id/80

??

[DME]

Actually, screw it, I found the mod where people bypass the coupler and simply use 5/8 heater hose

However, I'd still appreciate any insight on what''s in that green circle!

[erikv11]

I am confused . it looks like the leak is not in a heater hose, but in the lower radiator hose. In your red circle, the rad hose is on top and a heater hose is underneath it. Is the hole actually underneath, in the heater hose?

[cn90]

erik,

The O.P. used standard graphic notation, which means every time you see dotted lines, the item in question is behind the photographed structure.
Almost the same when you look at a city map, when a tunnel and underpass is marked with dotted lines.

So yes, it is the heater hose.

- Yes, bypass with standard heater hoses. Remove the firewall coupler, remove the 2 couplers themselves, leaving the whole assembly intact, pass the new hoses through.
- Seal the area with some Electrical Conduit Seal (the same stuff is used when people seal the conduits as they enter the house siding). A few dollars at Home Depot:

https://www.amazon.com/Gb-Electrical-Con ... B000GAUTW8

PS: Search around for proper heater hoses, some say I.D.= 5/8" and some say I.D.= 1/2".
I think the engine side is 5/8" but the heater core side is 1/2".
Check to be sure.

[erikv11]

Gotcha, I understand the drawing and know that the heater hose is on top in an NA, underneath in a turbo. What I don't get is how a pinhole in the hose underneath could possibly spray up onto the windshield with the hood open. Just want to help OP be sure about where the hole actually is.

[Ozark Lee]

If it is a heater hose then the correct parts are identified in the second post. You normally don't need the flange at the firewall but you do need new O rings and connectors. The part number is noted on FCP's page for the heater hoses. You also need to make sure that the old O rings and spacers are out of the sockets in the firewall.

From the picture I think you are showing the cooler hose for the turbo. It comes off of the pipe that runs along the back side of the engine and then mates up with another short pipe that goes to a banjo bolt on the back of the turbo. All and all it is a bitch to change. Hopefully you will get lucky and the hose clamp is oriented where you can get to it with a screwdriver or a socket with an extension on the pipe end, I found that it was easier to just take the banjo bolt loose for the turbo end. You should change the copper crush washers (2) on the banjo bolt but I have reused them with success.

The part number for the hose is 6842190.

...Lee

[DME]

Well, it was the heater hose. I tore everything out, slapped some of that electrician's goo over the hole in the firewall, and it works. What an ENORMOUS pain in my a$$!

Thanks for the help