New front suspension noise

Post by **m491** » 15 Apr 2013, 13:40

I am pulling my hair out on this one. I had had new seat springs and mounts put on my 850 turbo wagon a few months ago. The ride was suffering from bad bushings on the sway bars so I replaced with IPD sways 2 months ago. I notice a very different steering feel (slop is the best way to describe and a serious disappointment the IPD sways didn't fix everything:) I had a dealer tech do the sway bars so I didn't realize they reused the sway bar end links which were toast. There was now a clunking front end sound after the work so I took it back to the dealer and they said the car had bad end links. So I order up a set of Meyle HD end links and the handling is so much tighter but the clunking sound is still there. The only other parts that are not new are the tie rods. The control arms, end links, seat springs, mounts and sway bars are all new. even the nuts on the strut mounts and control arms are all new OEM.

I start to think something with the IPD sway bars it hitting but I can't find that either. So today I tried to bang on things to find something loose and pushed up and down on the front end and was able o replicate the sound. It seems like it was coming from the drivers side front wheel well. So I look over my repair paperwork from when I had teh sway bars done and I see I had a rebuild (non OEM) driver side axle replaced. The old one had a torn boot. Could a bad replacement axle make clunking noises going over small bumps, etc? I can't think of anything else that changed when the noise started and this is the only new part and the sound seems to be coming from this area. If anyone has had a bad axle make this type of noise let me know.

Post by **98T5** » 15 Apr 2013, 14:05

Bad struts? bad wheel hub assembly?. have you checked for wobble in the front wheels? motor mounts?

Do you hear it only on bumps? or as you ride?

Post by **m491** » 15 Apr 2013, 14:13

Only bumps and funny thing it doesn't seem to make noise at higher speeds (at least what I can notice.

The timing of the issue is when the seat springs, mounts, sway bars and axle were changed. When I press down on the front fender you can hear the noise. The parts that were changes all check out except the axle. I don't know if these could make noise. The old one was fine but the boot was torn so I went with their non-OEM just to get the car finished the same day. I have no idea if that axle could be the source of the noise but it sound like it comes from the axle area near the knuckle mount.

Post by **98T5** » 16 Apr 2013, 07:27

m491 wrote:Only bumps and funny thing it doesn't seem to make noise at higher speeds (at least what I can notice.

The timing of the issue is when the seat springs, mounts, sway bars and axle were changed. When I press down on the front fender you can hear the noise. The parts that were changes all check out except the axle. I don't know if these could make noise. The old one was fine but the boot was torn so I went with their non-OEM just to get the car finished the same day. I have no idea if that axle could be the source of the noise but it sound like it comes from the axle area near the knuckle mount.

The only things on the front axle that would make a "thud" sound over bumps would be bad spring seats, bad struts, bad wheel hub assemblies, bad control arm bushings, bad tie rod ends, or bad ball joints. You said you changed most of these except the struts themselves. maybe the struts are bottoming out? check to see if the struts are bleeding grease, if not, the struts are ok, if so, you may have to go back in and change the struts. Also, jack up one wheel and grab the wheel at 10 and2 and see if it wobbles. if it does, you need a wheel hub assembly and that's your "thud" when you go over bumps.

I have to change all these things on my 940 because I'm having the same "thud" over bumps. I recently fixed all these things on my wife's V70 that was also time for this to be done.

So you're almost home, when it's time to do this job, it's best to do everything while you're in there or as you can afford it. so the

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 16 Apr 2013, 08:21

Double check the mounting nuts on the end links. They tend to bind when you put them on and they will torque to spec and still be loose. It has happened to me more than once after making suspension repairs.

With the car on the ground have someone bounce the bumper on the offending side and feel for movement in the mounts.

...Lee

Post by **xHeart** » 16 Apr 2013, 09:51

A stationary car is no match for a moving one but we try to find clues.
Take a closer look at the four subframe bushings, specially the two rear.
Re-torque these bolts to spec.

If you are keeping it for another 50-100k miles.
Replace ALL suspension and steering parts, fasteners, and clips as your time and pocket permit.
Use OE, at minimum OEM.

Can't thank Ozark Lee enough for getting me started with my big project.
It drives straight, quietly, and I smile often, wow at times.

Post by **m491** » 16 Apr 2013, 18:50

I don't have any leaks on the struts and I know these have been done in the last 50k with OEM so I think those are ok. I need to check the bolts on the end links again to make sure they aren't bound up before fully tightening up. The sound is clear when pushing up and down on the drivers side fender.

I need to get the car up to check the hub assembly. What is the signs of a bad assembly? Just shaking of the wheel or anything else I should be looking for?

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Apr 2013, 23:03

I also think the endlink is the best idea so far, but here is one answer to your most recent question:

Most commonly, a bad hub assembly will get noisy when under load. So if you are turning left, the car leans right and loads up the right hub. So if the right hub bearing is bad, it will groan and complain much more when turning left. With that in mind, you could try going over bumps (like a small speed bump in the parking lot) with the passenger hub loaded (turning left) versus going over bumps with the hub unloaded (turning right). Does the thud almost go away, by comparison, when turning right?

Post by **Ben850** » 17 Apr 2013, 05:40

I am replacing all four hubs to rule them out. I have a similar situation of a knock that I can't seem to pin down, both front and rear. I am fairly sure I can use new hubs at 173,000 miles, I get a droning after around fifteen minutes at highway speed.
Lastly, I have been putting off the rear Delta link bushings. I will likely put my name on the list to use the tool that is being passed around. Great idea.

Post by **xHeart** » 17 Apr 2013, 08:09

Ben850 wrote:I am replacing all four hubs to rule them out. I have a similar situation of a knock that I can't seem to pin down, both front and rear. I am fairly sure I can use new hubs at 173,000 miles, I get a droning after around fifteen minutes at highway speed.
Lastly, I have been putting off the rear Delta link bushings. I will likely put my name on the list to use the tool that is being passed around. Great idea.

During a recent repair I discovered driver's side rear rotor loose. Looking closer found all four to be loose, each guide pin battered with flattened threads, barely screwed. I have replace all four, Volvo PN1330273.

I plan on replacing all 20 wheel lugs at next brake rotor and pad replacement, likely this Fall.

If you replace hub/bearing assembly TIMKEN is FAG, take out the spindle clean it thoroughly. Do not hesitate to replace spindle with a used Grade A quality if there is a slightest hint of damage.