I believe the lower of the two heater hoses back by the brake cylinder is leaking, the drivers side of the back of the engine is all wet after I drive for a while and the lower of the two hoses seem to be wet also - so I suspect that is the issue. I plan on replacing both of the two hoses and could use some pointers from those who have done this before. Will I need to drain the coolant before hand so it doesn't leak all over the place? This is a pretty tight place to get into - what all will I need to remove to get to the hoses easier? Any other tips you think would be helpful is most appreciated!
Thanks so much for your advice and assistance.
--Rob
1993 240 Heater Hoses leaking
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SmokinJazz
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 20 August 2013
- Year and Model: 240 1993
- Location: Denver
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SmokinJazz
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 20 August 2013
- Year and Model: 240 1993
- Location: Denver
On these hoses in the engine area, there are only the clamps with the threaded screws to tighten down. I saw a long picture tutorial for the heater core replacement on the 240's and it showed other heater control mechanisms inside the interior of the car - perhaps that valve is inside the vehicle.
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mtd240
- Posts: 326
- Joined: 7 December 2011
- Year and Model: 2007 XC70
- Location: Ellicott City, MD
- Has thanked: 23 times
- Been thanked: 7 times
Correct - the heater valve is inside the car. The heater hoses are still a major PITA to replace, even with small hands.
Perhaps now would be a good time to pull the intake manifold, replace the intake manifold gasket, and clean out the PCV breather box
Perhaps now would be a good time to pull the intake manifold, replace the intake manifold gasket, and clean out the PCV breather box
2007 XC70, white/oak, 175k miles
2008 XC70 3.2L, 115k miles
2016 XC60, osmium grey / off-black, 95k miles
Gone:
1990 240 DL Wagon, M47, lots of goodies. 372,000 miles
1978 242, lots and lots of work to get a reliable daily
1998 V70 XC, Almost done replacing everything, then I sold it
1996 850 NA, victim of sporadic tree falling. Protected the wife. RIP Volvo
2008 XC70 3.2L, 115k miles
2016 XC60, osmium grey / off-black, 95k miles
Gone:
1990 240 DL Wagon, M47, lots of goodies. 372,000 miles
1978 242, lots and lots of work to get a reliable daily
1998 V70 XC, Almost done replacing everything, then I sold it
1996 850 NA, victim of sporadic tree falling. Protected the wife. RIP Volvo
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SmokinJazz
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 20 August 2013
- Year and Model: 240 1993
- Location: Denver
I just got done replacing the breather box - that was a bit of gymnastics (which didn't have an o-ring on it - so I was very encouraged that I found the reason for my engine being wet on that side). But after the test drive, I found it was still wet and found the lower heater hose to also be a bit wet (I didn't notice it before, but did see oil around the breather box) - so I'm replacing both of them when the hoses arrive. How difficult is it to replace the intake manifold gasket? Is there anyway to test if that gasket is solid still or if it needs to be replace? Thanks for the info!
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SmokinJazz
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 20 August 2013
- Year and Model: 240 1993
- Location: Denver
No - when I replaced the oil trap, I removed the air intake hose, air mass and the two side hoses completely so I could have a bit of room to maneuver in there. It wasn't too hard to get the oil trap out while to intake was in place. I was concerned the intake connection with the injectors and all would be quite complicated, so I wanted to just keep that all in place. Last winter, I had the air intake hose off so I could access the AC to drier hose on the back of the AC compressor (mine had a hole in it) and I took off the throttle body and cleaned that real good, put it back on with a new gasket - so that is all done. I did do some research about signs regarding a failing intake manifold gasket and saw some video regarding the engine shaking like crazy. My engine is calm as can be - very smooth when idling. I saw some notes about spraying water on the manifold to see if the engine dies - that just seems nuts - how else can it be tested?
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SmokinJazz
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 20 August 2013
- Year and Model: 240 1993
- Location: Denver
ohh - I also removed the little metal can that mounts just below the intake manifold where the left hose on the air intake connects to and also a hose on the back of the manifold - all of that was also removed when I did the oil trap.
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voodoorobaz
- Posts: 78
- Joined: 16 October 2009
- Year and Model: 1982 Volvo 245 DL
- Location: Mesa, AZ
Carb cleaner sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines is a great way to test for leaks. Using water however is a terrible idea It's not a very efficient method and water does not compress and can cause extreme damage if introduced into the combustion chamber, carb cleaner burns therefor engine RPM increases if intake leak is present.
1998 Volvo S70-Gone
2002 Volvo S60 T5-Gone
2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD-Gone
1983 Volvo 245 Dl-Gone
1982 Volvo 245 DL
2013 GMC Terrain with 3.6l
2006 Cannondale Bad Boy Use for Commuting to work
2002 Volvo S60 T5-Gone
2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD-Gone
1983 Volvo 245 Dl-Gone
1982 Volvo 245 DL
2013 GMC Terrain with 3.6l
2006 Cannondale Bad Boy Use for Commuting to work
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