1998 V70XC Replacing AC part

seb21051 · Post by **seb21051** » 24 Jul 2014, 14:32

Question - how does one disconnect the AC flange type connectors such as on the Receiver/Dryer?

Thanks!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 Jul 2014, 19:43

It requires the use of a quick connect spring lock tool. The quick connect works a bunch better than the quick release though.

I picked up a set similar to these at Advance Auto Parts but any auto parts store will have them.

http://autoacsystems.com/_store/detail/AR6225.html

...Lee

seb21051 · Post by **seb21051** » 25 Jul 2014, 08:33

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the Info! Following on to what you said - you are able to get the quick release to release, right?

Another issue has arisen - while replacing the radiator, come to find the Engine Oil/Transfluid Cooler couplings are 3 thou undersize. The plugs are 0.587, and the sockets are 0.584. Not a good situation.

I tried to take a few thou off with a cheap indian boring bar in my little lathe, but it is not up to the task. Will have to think of another solution. Any ideas? short of finding a machine shop in my area . . .

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 Jul 2014, 21:24

seb21051 wrote:Hi Lee,

Thanks for the Info! Following on to what you said - you are able to get the quick release to release, right?

Another issue has arisen - while replacing the radiator, come to find the Engine Oil/Transfluid Cooler couplings are 3 thou undersize. The plugs are 0.587, and the sockets are 0.584. Not a good situation.

I tried to take a few thou off with a cheap indian boring bar in my little lathe, but it is not up to the task. Will have to think of another solution. Any ideas? short of finding a machine shop in my area . . .

They do release the spring but use some PB blaster or some kind of penetrating oil first. The spring tends to rust and it makes it difficult to get the release tool all the way in. Once the tool is depressed and the spring is released the line will still fight you mightily trying to get it off. Once the line comes out about 1/8" you don't need the release tool anymore and you can focus on pulling the line.

What kind of radiator?

The sockets being incorrectly sized is a new one but nothing surprises me anymore. I have removed the sockets before on the OEM radiator thinking I could swap the sockets from a '99 to a '96 radiator (they are a different style) but after I swapped the sockets it became apparent that it wasn't going to work anyway due to the overflow tube connection on the '99 radiator. If you try to swap the sockets do them one at a time or you can lose the oil coolers in the process. I just used blue RTV to seal the socket holes and they didn't leak after I used that radiator in another car.

...Lee

seb21051 · Post by **seb21051** » 30 Jul 2014, 20:40

Hi Lee,

Finally got the radiator in, after I figured out a way to enlarge the relevant holes with my little lathe.
The radiator was a $75 purchase from Ebay. Being retired and on a a fixed income makes that
we have to work with what we've got.

I started the engine late this afternoon and let it run for half an hour to check for leaks.
Now its back to try to figure out why the windows don't want to close.
I'm thinking it may be a problem ground.

Found out something else of interest lately: I picked up a jump start box locally quite cheaply. It says it is rated at 600 amps, and I find it works quite well. Anyway, being the curious sort I opened it up and found it contains a 8AH Sealed Lead Acid Battery. So, needing a battery for the Volvo I ordered a 20AH battery for $35 off of Ebay. It is now mounted in the Volvo, and it works well too, but there is a problem with charging it; I figure the SLA ones have different charging specs, so I need to resolve that issue before winter.

Thanks for all the help and advice! I decided to let the AC (and the quick connect set) wait till next summer, since the Volvo is really my Winter SUV.

Stefan.

Post by **abscate** » 31 Jul 2014, 03:39

I'm not a battery expert but using that SLA in your car probably needs review. That battery is trickle charged at low amperage, but your Volvo alternator will try to put 10s of amps of current to recharge it after each start. That can't be good.

seb21051 · Post by **seb21051** » 31 Jul 2014, 04:31

This is the interesting thing though - when you recharge the Quick Starter (containing the SLA) it takes about 30 minutes, on average, starting with a 75% charge, to fully charge it. That has to be more than a trickle.

I'm thinking of putting a large diode in the positive line to block the (reverse) charging current, then running it through a regulator that will limit it to 5 amps or so.

seb21051 · Post by **seb21051** » 31 Jul 2014, 04:54

Further Datum:

I put the SLAs in the car on charge last night with a standard charger. The max it displayed with the batteries so discharged that they were unable to start the car, was 6A. This morning I went and started the car, ran it for a few minutes, then turned it off, with the idea of putting the charger back on to see what the initial charging rate would be - turns out it was 4A.

So, from approx. 50% charge level translating to 6A initial rate with my old Sears charger, to an almost full level taking 4A to replenish, I think I have my regulator design range. In all honesty, a 1.5 ohm, 20 Watt resistor would probably do the job just fine.