rebuilding 06 2.4 s40 engine

rgh1835 · Post by **rgh1835** » 02 Mar 2019, 12:10

in reading on line about installing crankshaft, i saw that volvo says to replace rod and main bearing bolts. is this really necessary? also tightening procedure and torque specs in ftlbs would be a big help. thanks in advance.

rgh1835 · Post by **rgh1835** » 03 Mar 2019, 12:36

cmon guys-someone out there knows the answer to these questions, or at least has on opinion. i noticed even master rebuild kits do not include rod and main bolts. all the torque specs i have found are in nm.of course all my torque wrenches are in ft lbs. i guess i will use conversion calculators,but again some one must have these in ft lbs.

jtopiso · Post by **jtopiso** » 04 Mar 2019, 01:27

I can only reply to the unit convertion part:
1Nm = 0.7376 ft-lb.

So, just multiply every value in Nm by 0.7376 to get it in ft·lbs

Polestar · Post by **Polestar** » 15 Mar 2019, 21:05

Right on with the conversion.
On the bolts, I think that may be opinion territory, so here goes: I've never rebuilt a Volvo engine, but have others. In absence of an available bolt kit, personally, I would not hesitate to re use those bolts with the exception being the head bolts. I would check out ARP website, they have a vehicle search function there.

rgh1835 · Post by **rgh1835** » 19 Mar 2019, 20:42

thanks again for replies. have built the short block and today picked up freshly checked and surfaced head. will lap the valves and replace stem seals then move on to setting valve clearances before installing. took three heads to get one not to badly warped to use.

rgh1835 · Post by **rgh1835** » 10 Apr 2019, 17:57

update: head rebuilt and installed.valve clearances set and cams installed. front of eng assembled and cam belt installed. used proper cam tools and even put the plug in the block. but,eng is very tight. was forced to use cam cover not original to head, suspect cams are binding. all i can think of is to remove cams then pull cam followers, reinstall cams and see if binding. want to use plastigage to check clearances,but have not been able to find specs for cam bearings. any suggestions? engine at short block pulled thru normally.

rgh1835 · Post by **rgh1835** » 24 Apr 2019, 17:40

sure enough, the cam cover was binding the cam. i had another cover, but it was from a vin 38 and not exactly the same as my vin 39 engine. had to have the hole for the exhaust cam sensor machined out. also used a different exhaust cam [ same casting #]. so had to reset all the valve clearances. engine reassembled, pulls thru cleanly, i am confident it will run. have yet to see or hear definitive method for putting engine back in, but it will not go back in like it came out. latest theory is to put engine in from underneath with subframe and auto trans in place. as always suggestions are welcome.

rgh1835 · Post by **rgh1835** » 03 May 2019, 21:46

well the engine is back in. tried halfheartedly to install from above, could not clear the end of the crank to fenderwell. laid engine down on a piece of plywood w/intake side down. jacked car up enough to clear, slid eng under, then turned up right w/cherry picker. reset chains tighter to eng and pulled it up into place.went surprisingly easy. working by myself, took @ 2 hrs from start to where engine was sitting on mounts. still much work ahead, including replacing both cv axles due to torn boots. only @$30.00 more to get new axles than 4 boot kits, not worth the trouble. still, very encouraged by results so far. comments and /or advice welcomed