2000 V70XC ETM and lower engine mounts replaced

[goVolvo]

I'll add details tomorrow. Car is in sleep today. It's too late and I leave battery negative unconnected. Will start it later.

This is my first time doing such big work and I broke one small thing when put the fan back, the air hose from fan shroud to the small black box on passenger side. Do you know what it is for? Is it risky to run the car without it? Only difference now is the air goes to the small box is from after the fan rather than in front of the fan.

And the old passenger engine mount is totally collapsed and broken. The culpit looks to be engine oil leak above it. Oil gunk covered the left bolt of the mount. The left bolt is even soaked in engine oil. Oil is the enermy of rubber parts. I see the CV boot is affected too. One of the ring ridge in the middle collapsed and cannot bounce back. Seems it becomes softer than usual.

Maintanence receipt shows timing belt was replaced two years ago. Not sure if any oil leak was fixed at that time. Oil level seem stable though. Maybe I should clean up the oil gunk and see if it accumulates again. What cleaner is good to clean oil gunks? And do I need to be careful don't dump the dirty fluid to public sewage?

Thanks a lot for the information here. I'll just write up the additional thing on 2000 V70XC that I didn't found in other references.

The difference on my 2000 V70XC (North American)

I had to do following other than regular things (air box, etc):
Get ready to take fan and shroud out:
- Remove the short hose from intercooler to ETM input pipe. (I wish this hose was longer so ETM pipe would not be in the way as you will find out.) Cover the openings with plastic foil wrap and rubber band, better be careful than regret anything.
- Loosen the fan bolts: 2 torx headers and 2 hex
- Move away the panel with 3 harness on top of fan shroud toward the engine side. Do not need to disconnect wires as long as they don't come in the way. (I remember watched a video doing this step but cannot remember where to find it now.)
- Remove relays, fan connector, and other wire connectors and clips
- Now, try to lift the fan and shroud, you will find it blocked by the ETM pipe. It can only be done after ETM pipe is loosen and moved away.

Now remove dipstick tube by taking off the bolt and pulling the tube upwards. You then are able to touch and feel the ETM and ETM pipe under the intake manifold. Space is limited but we have to do some work here. Follow Howard Cheng's writeup below and loosen the ETM pipe clamp and the pipe. Do not need to disconnect the small hoses and wires from the ETM pipe. Let it hang there and you can move the ETM pipe toward engine.

Now lift up fan and shroud. Protect the radiator, by putting a flattened carbon box there.You will have big enough space now to remove ETM or change the front engine mount.

References (very useful tips):

ETM:
Howard Cheng's detailed write up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obUAQNwQERI

Engine mount:
Tutorial: How to Replace Front and Rear Hydraulic Motor Mounts and Engine Pad
Volvo Engine Mount Replacement (850 Front & Rear) FCP Euro

[Ozark Lee]

The tube with the accordion flex joint is cooling from the ECUs. There is no pressure on the line to speak of and it isn't mission critical. If you have enough of the line left you can wrap some electrical tape around the break and it will work fine. They are cheap, around $15.00 as I recall, and I wind up replacing them but that is more of a vanity thing than anything operational.

The oil leak is a bigger deal though. From what you describe it sounds like you have a cam seal leak and, as you observed with the motor mount, the oil can break down rubber components after time. The rubber component that is directly in line with the camshaft leak is the timing belt and you don't want the belt to get covered in oil.

The front seals camshaft seals are a bigger deal than the rear camshaft seals but they are doable by mere mortals without a pile of special tools. The big problem in changing the front seals is the lack of space to get to them and you need to be very careful when removing the old seals. If the seal surface on the camshaft gets gouged it will never seal properly.

The motor mount itself is very easy to replace but I would avoid a URO branded replacement. They look fine and they work fine - for about 20,000 miles.

...Lee

[goVolvo]

Oh my, this looks a little scary to me.

[Ozark Lee]

Actually I was a bit glib on the lack of necessity for special tools. For a CVVT engine you do need a cam adjustment tool to change the CVVT seal if that is the one that is leaking. In order to torque the CVVT hub down and to set the pre-load on the CVVT you need to lock the camshafts.

...Lee

[clifford06]

Greetings. I have found myself with the same oil leak that u describe . I used brake cleaner on it a few days ago, to remove build up. Just get a cheap bag of Dry Sweep from Autozone , to collect drippage. So far no drips. Thankfully the belt was dry, but my mount was not. I'll be changing it in the next few days. Ozark is correct. Just say NO TO URO.

[goVolvo]

Today I connected battery, hear the slight whistle and the geh-dah sound from ETM auto checking. Started the car and ETS light is silent. Also can tell engine vibration is much less, very happy!