1999 V70 XC New Pads & Rotors grinding when turning

PapaHepcat · Post by **PapaHepcat** » 26 Jan 2015, 00:15

I haven't had my Volvo all that long. But a recent look at the rotors showed huge grooves in all four of them. So I replaced them this weekend. New pads and new rotors.

Now though, both of the fronts grinds really badly when I turn the wheels too far either to the left or right. If I'm just barely moving, it actually stops the car. Or if I ease up on the turn a bit, it'll grind and I can feel it catch and let go, then catch again, etc. I test drove around the block and it seemed to stop just fine when going straight. I didn't have the courage to try anything above 20 mph, if that.

Not sure if this matters: but I also did the front struts, as well as the inner and outer tie rods on both sides.

What have I done wrong?

Post by **abscate** » 26 Jan 2015, 03:08

Where the calipers and pistons moving freely when you replaced the pads? Once they start sticking the wear the brakes out really fast, then they will bind up on turns, too.

PapaHepcat · Post by **PapaHepcat** » 26 Jan 2015, 08:57

I could move them, but they were pretty stiff. Do they need replacing? Or can I clean them or something?

Post by **oragex** » 26 Jan 2015, 09:27

PapaHepcat wrote:What have I done wrong?

what pads did you bought? some hard ceramics might be noisy (even on new luxury sport vehicles)

I would go with regular aftermarket pads, if I remember well Mintex make good pads with low dust

And of course, make sure the caliper slides really easily. Remove the metal sliding pin, clean it, then put only silicone grease inside the rubber boot. The piston inside the caliper might also be stuck but to check it you need to release the caliper bleeder.

PapaHepcat · Post by **PapaHepcat** » 26 Jan 2015, 11:58

Hmm. Maybe it's the calipers then. They were pretty stiff. I think the replacement pads were ceramic, but they were quiet when I applied the brakes from just moving forward. And the car stopped fine. Much better than before, actually. The grinding only happens when I'm turning.

mika · Post by **mika** » 29 Jan 2015, 12:54

With wheels off ground, do they spin freely? Or do they catch while rotating and slow down at a certain point?

This would mean the rotor is not centered on hub (or has a hop in it while rotating, kindof like a wheel out of balance). There is a pin that holds the rotor onto the hub.

IG-88A · Post by **IG-88A** » 29 Jan 2015, 14:58

This may sound silly, but check to make sure that when you installed the tie rod ends, that you didn't get in a hurry and flip one or both of them, or install them on opposite sides. They are curved for a reason and will only clear the wheel through a full turn if the arch in the tie rod end faces the right way. I foolishly got in a rush once because it started raining on me and made this very mistake. I didn't even make it out of the driveway before I knew something was seriously amiss. The sound and feeling was that scary.

Post by **regent** » 29 Jan 2015, 15:15

Upon visual inspection, you should notice where the binding is taking place (drag areas on the disc surfaces - one side or both sides).

If binding occurs only in turns, I would suspect axial play in the hub.
In addition, I would remove the rotor, check for burrs on both mating surfaces (rotor and hub flange) and clean nicely before re-installing. The pin that holds the rotor on the hub is only a centering pin, make sure you do not overtighten it.

Before removing the caliper from the knuckle, I usually compress/expand it a few times to check if the pistons are moving freely.

mika · Post by **mika** » 30 Jan 2015, 09:57

regent wrote:
If binding occurs only in turns, I would suspect axial play in the hub.
In addition, I would remove the rotor, check for burrs on both mating surfaces (rotor and hub flange) and clean nicely before re-installing. The pin that holds the rotor on the hub is only a centering pin, make sure you do not overtighten it.
.

I recently read that our hubs are eccentric: inorder to properly balance the rotor on the hub it is recommended to tighten the rotor down with the lugs first, and then place the pin into the rotor and tighten it down. This promotes placing the rotor on concentrically. Then undo lungs, place wheel back on, ect.

Post by **E Showell** » 30 Jan 2015, 10:07

You could have bent the dust shields ever so slightly when replacing the pads/rotors. If so, they will bind and grind on turning.