Replaced Rear Cam Seal but now worried about PCV pressure...

[plumsmooth]

Hey it almost made 30 degrees on wedesday so I decided I'd better do it.
Especially considering how easy it looked.

Well with darkness upon me I did it albeit with a couple of short mishaps.

IT seems I first tried to put it in backwards even after clearly looking at 3 pictures of it in with the flat side facing out.

Luckily it wasn't all the way in but I nicked the outside rear thin edge trying stupidly to pull it back out.

I said screw it and since it seemed otherwise unscathed I set it in, possibly a millimeter too deep -- just passed the edge of the engine entry circle. But one side seemed a little deeper so I wanted it to be even all the way around. Next time I would probably use something matching to push it in. I did it with my fingers.

The I lost the original seal down into the chassis or whatever you call that open area below the air filter.

Today I'll properly test drive it. I really want my Vehicle to make it until a 50 degree spring day before PCV replacement and I still would like to give an occasional transport for $ for my job, so I need to make sure the smell of burning oil is gone and Volvo not leaking.

What I am worried about -- and sorry for the lengthy long winded rant here -- is whether or not my current temporary venting system is adequate.

I thought I was being clever so I picked up a spare oil cap and a couple of those breath filters. However I didn't realize -- even though they are washable -- they they would get coated with oil. So I am kind of wondering if I would be better off just with a rag over the dipstick port. But my dipstick just broke anyway and i have a new one coming. For now I have to use a small visegrip and the old dipstick to check oil.

I guess I do not understand just how much pressure it would take to blow my RMS. Anyway it just so happens that a 5/8 push on breather snugly wraps the top of my dipstick port. I drilled a 5/16 port in a spare oil cap I purchased, which originally I was going to drill a 1/2 hole through but then realized that any bigger than 5/16 would mess up the underside locking bar on the oil cap.

So here I am with a 5/16 "push in" breather which I need a silicone grommet for. Then I realized that the hood may not even close over any more added height to my engine oil cap then this smaller breather. Then I started wondering if these breathers are more designed with intake air in mind.

As you can see I am feeling very compulsive about this whole PCV thing right now. I do not understand just how much pressure is normal operating pressure within the engine and whether my current temporary double breather modification is sufficient to keep me running without danger of further trouble while I order my PCV kit, gather my tools, and wait for a warm spring day...

Thank you very much for helping me...

Here's my Baby you all deserve to see her...

[abscate]

I'll try to find crankcase pressure specs, but I think what I would offer is drive carefully like you don't have 2000 extra dollars to spend. It's good to drive that way in winter anyway.

[precopster]

The top of your engine will become coated in oil. The dipstick mod is more than enoigh.

Relax you can't start a fire with no fuel for the fire to burn.

[plumsmooth]

Well turns out I thought I was being clever but I was just wasting money.
I'll just call it therapy during an annoying couple of weeks.

I just test drove the Volvo the leak is gone Yay...

However the top of the breather I have on the dipstick port basically lifted under the pressure therefore It is obviously coated with oil and not doing anything.

I think the mod I liked the best was the heater hose from dipstick port tied off toward the battery and below thereby redirecting the smoke away from the cabin intake air...

But wouldn't I lose oil doing that -- that would be dripping down.

I guess that is what a catch can is for. Maybe I can rig one of those up...

[plumsmooth]

Update, I'm sticking with the [in my case] no dipstick/homemade rag covered breather.

I'm tired of wasting creative improvisational breather installation energy; and I decided to accept my waste of money, skip the catch-can fantasies, and go back to studying and gathering my tools for the PCV job.

And you know I'll have plenty of questions -- but that's why I love you Matthew's Volvo Site.

For now I have no oil leak! Cam Seal replacement Success!; and I completed my second job [first was replaced the cabin air filter].

And I believe I have a minimal enough smell coming from the dipstick fumes to give a passenger a ride!

And I have my first ever u-joint and a t40 socket bit.

I'll be watching youtube PCV Volvo videos over and over again and you'll hear from me soon.

[Ben850]

All the things you have done seem really cool. They have been done before.

The bottom drain from the oil separator to the sump is the issue. If it is clogged, you need to unclog it.
Period. (apologies for structure)
You will need to remove the intake manifold. You will need to either clean, or replace the oil trap.
Period.(Redundant for a reason.)

you need to get there.

Simply that. Afterward, you may re-rout some other tubing than OEM from the oil trap, to the induction system. This saves money, as well as some well known failures.
This all depends on how many decades you intend on owning said vehicle.
Many choices to be had. Few work other than those. You may blow more seals while learning. I would not suggest.
I can elaborate.

Edit: What was done to the '95 T-5R of which I have taken ownership would be a prime example of lazy ideas, gone bad. Pictures to come this spring.

[Ben850]

More innovative while meeting my T-5R.

He had done a catch can, BOV...

This one looks like yours, only different.

Treat them as you might like them.

Have fun. I do.