Hi, everyone.
I was on this forum before, but I have lost my username and information, so I signed on anew.
I have a 1995 Volvo 850 T Wagon in red that has 230,000 miles on it. It runs great and has no major problems, except that the A/C is a little touch and go at times. I'm in Houston, TX. It needs little things updated and worked on now again, but I can't afford to get those repairs done at the mechanic. I am not great at working on the car myself and my ex used to work on it while we were together. I need to sell the car, but I don't know how much it's worth or how to go about doing so. I know I could just post it on Craig's List, but I'd really like the car to go to someone who will value it. Can you guys give me any advice on how to put together an advertisement that will attract the right kind of buyer? How much do you think a car like this is worth?
I would appreciate any advice you all can offer me. I love the car but can't keep it and I want it to go to a good home.
1995 Volvo 850 T Wagon -- Must Sell, Need Advice
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Ozark Lee
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Car prices are really regional and Volvo prices are even more regional than most. The best advice I can give you is to look at what you are competing with and how long they have been listed. Just because someone has a similar car listed for $10,000 doesn't mean anything if it has been listed for 6 months. If you can slot in with the asking price for other private parties you will be in the ballpark and a typical buyer will want to haggle a bit.
As far as the listing goes just get 5 or 6 clear pictures and give a good description with proper spelling, punctuation, and capitalization. List the mileage, tire condition, and any other descriptive things that you can think of. I typically list any recent service items and any known faults up front but that is me. Since you are in Houston you are money ahead to dump a can or two of R-134A in to get the air working even if you do indicate that it might have a slow leak, at least that way a buyer knows the compressor works. Listings that say "Car" with no description or pictures typically don't get much in the way of results.
...Lee
As far as the listing goes just get 5 or 6 clear pictures and give a good description with proper spelling, punctuation, and capitalization. List the mileage, tire condition, and any other descriptive things that you can think of. I typically list any recent service items and any known faults up front but that is me. Since you are in Houston you are money ahead to dump a can or two of R-134A in to get the air working even if you do indicate that it might have a slow leak, at least that way a buyer knows the compressor works. Listings that say "Car" with no description or pictures typically don't get much in the way of results.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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E Showell
- Posts: 3275
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You can also ballpark value by going to a commercial website such as Edmunds.com, KellyBlueBook.com and NADA.com and go through their various appraisal functions.
In my part of the country, I find Kelly Blue Book values to be grossly inflated and Edmunds (generally lower) to be closer to what's really going on in the market.
Additionally, perhaps a personal bias, but when I see, for example, Craigslist ads that advertise a car for $X less than Kelly Blue Book value, that is a signal to me that the seller is using (perhaps unknowingly, but I generally doubt it) an artificially high value benchmark to create the perception of value -- sort of like stores offering bogus "sale" prices.
Another pet peeve of mine is ads that do not list vehicle mileage, or at least show a current picture of the odometer's mileage readout, since that is a principal indicator of value. Always, always, always list age, mileage and condition as well as any known major service work, whether you have service records and if so, how far back, and any known flaws, cosmetic and mechanical. As Lee notes, clear pictures are always helpful.
Also, as you may be aware, this site has a classifieds section.
I also think your objects matter. Do you want to get rid of the car asap because it is taking up a paid parking space and you want it off your insurance? In that case, pricing a little on the low side will move it quickly. On the other hand, if you aren't in a hurry to sell and want to maximize value, set the price on the higher end of benchmark and hold out. Be aware, however, if your ad shows that it has been posted for quite a while (Craigslist), then the buyer will use that as negotiating leverage. In my opinion, the worst thing you can do is post on Craigslist and drop the price $100 every day for several consecutive days. That screams desperation and will likely yield you the absolute lowest price you could get.
In my part of the country, I find Kelly Blue Book values to be grossly inflated and Edmunds (generally lower) to be closer to what's really going on in the market.
Additionally, perhaps a personal bias, but when I see, for example, Craigslist ads that advertise a car for $X less than Kelly Blue Book value, that is a signal to me that the seller is using (perhaps unknowingly, but I generally doubt it) an artificially high value benchmark to create the perception of value -- sort of like stores offering bogus "sale" prices.
Another pet peeve of mine is ads that do not list vehicle mileage, or at least show a current picture of the odometer's mileage readout, since that is a principal indicator of value. Always, always, always list age, mileage and condition as well as any known major service work, whether you have service records and if so, how far back, and any known flaws, cosmetic and mechanical. As Lee notes, clear pictures are always helpful.
Also, as you may be aware, this site has a classifieds section.
I also think your objects matter. Do you want to get rid of the car asap because it is taking up a paid parking space and you want it off your insurance? In that case, pricing a little on the low side will move it quickly. On the other hand, if you aren't in a hurry to sell and want to maximize value, set the price on the higher end of benchmark and hold out. Be aware, however, if your ad shows that it has been posted for quite a while (Craigslist), then the buyer will use that as negotiating leverage. In my opinion, the worst thing you can do is post on Craigslist and drop the price $100 every day for several consecutive days. That screams desperation and will likely yield you the absolute lowest price you could get.
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'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
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