1999 S80 Evap leak P0442 J Hose
1999 S80 Evap leak P0442 J Hose
I have an Evap leak and had a smoke test to locate the leak. The repair shop said it is my J hose located on top of or near my gas tank. Quoted me $900.00 to drop the rear end. I have been looking on line and it would appear I can access the J hose by lowering my exhaust and removing heat shield. I have been searching other post to see if anyone has a video or diagram of this actually being done. So far everything I have found is garbage. I need to make the repair quickly because I have to take it in for an Emissions Test. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
its fairly easy to locate that hose but very limited space to do any work, that is why the shop wanted to pull the rear subframe out, anyways I just replaced my canister with all the hoses on a s60 which is the same set up, first lift up the car as high as you can or on a lift if you have access to one, then remove 2 center covers/brackets for the exhaust system, then two more bolts that attached to the subframe and last 2 bolts at the rear of the muffler, once you have that out of the way make sure its not hanging too far down so that you don't break of flex pipe, next step is to take out the muffler shield which should easy come out, at which point you will be able to see the evap canister and that J hose.
The canister is secured with 2 bolts either 10 or 12 mm which are located inside the subframe, will have to look for it but its there take those out then you will be able to move it around and able to take off that J hose. hope this helps, it took me about 1hr of total time to change it
The canister is secured with 2 bolts either 10 or 12 mm which are located inside the subframe, will have to look for it but its there take those out then you will be able to move it around and able to take off that J hose. hope this helps, it took me about 1hr of total time to change it
1995 - 850 1st
1995-97 - 850 R 3 Black, Red, Yellow
2000-04 - $40 (4)
2005-06 - $80 (8)
2001-09 - $60 (38)
2005 xc90 (2)
2001 xc70 (wifes first car)
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2013 chevy 2500HD
1995-97 - 850 R 3 Black, Red, Yellow
2000-04 - $40 (4)
2005-06 - $80 (8)
2001-09 - $60 (38)
2005 xc90 (2)
2001 xc70 (wifes first car)
2001-07 v70 (5)
2007 $60R (2)
2008 XC90 sport V8
1998 Merz $500 custom
2009 Merz $550
2013 chevy 2500HD
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THAI UNG
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This is how I did to mine back in 2012.after researched and study,I came up with this,I got 2 PCV Valve Elbows from local auto parts store,then I lubed outside small side of elbow to make it easier to connect small end to the big end to make it look like U shape.Put the car on jack stands.Pull the J shape hose end off from charcoal canister whith a longer nose plier and lube inside a big elbow then push and wiggle it the with a grip of longer nose plier into canister,then cut partial the J hose off(My other J hose end was fine so I did not touch it) and lube the small elbow,push and wiggle it into hose,cleared the code then it done,the code never show up and passes the smog test twice.Hope this helps...
Thanks everyone. I was able to get to the canister and J-Hose and did find a small hole at the elbow. Without removing the canister or hose I filled the hole with silicon and sprayed a little Flex Seal for good measure. Still throwing the code so looks like I will have to get more aggressive. The space is very tight.
this is truly a hassle
in CT, we are allowed 1 or 2 EVAP codes to be not ready, and still pass the test
I clear the codes, allow time to reset...the 455 code takes a lot longer to reset than the others
passes with 1 code not ready every time
in CT, we are allowed 1 or 2 EVAP codes to be not ready, and still pass the test
I clear the codes, allow time to reset...the 455 code takes a lot longer to reset than the others
passes with 1 code not ready every time
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