Serpentine belt -- pulley?

mar601 · Post by **mar601** » 19 May 2016, 09:34

I'm having my serpentine belt and tensioner replaced but also need to ask about this pulley --

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 70-9146139

I have 140K on car -- wouldn't it be a good idea to replace this also? Is it a problem to replace or easy if they're replacing the tensioner at the same time?

I also saw "tensioner pulley" ? -- is that already part of a new tensioner?

Thanks very much -- and I mean that.

Post by **scot850** » 19 May 2016, 10:57

It would help us if you can specify what model of Volvo you have. Is it a V/C/S 70 from 1998 and is ait a GLT, Base, T5, R model?

If you are having the full tensioner on serpentine belt replaced, there may be an idler pulley there also. This part should be part of the full tensioner assembly which has a pulley like this and is attached to a spring loaded arm which is the tensioner.

What/where are you ordering the parts from as this also helps us. Reason being some aftermarket parts are of poor quality.

Neil.

mar601 · Post by **mar601** » 19 May 2016, 11:35

thanks Neil -- sorry bout that -- a 98 S70 T5. thanks. FCP is usually where I get my parts OEM

mar601 · Post by **mar601** » 19 May 2016, 11:37

in my cart so far --
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... ly-1275380

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 70-9146973

Post by **scot850** » 19 May 2016, 11:50

So you were correct in the first note in that is the idler pulley and not a replacement pulley for the tensioner (my error). So that part is correct.

Tensioner should be correct.

Is your car a standard shift and does it have A/C? The belt listed is for a manual/standard shift without A/C. There is a different part number listed for an auto without A/C (9146844) and for A/C is listed as (9186352) assuming you have a B5234T3 motor.

Neil.

Teddy1975 · Post by **Teddy1975** » 19 May 2016, 11:58

In my humble opinion, there's no need to replace the pulley mentioned in first post. Only if you can feel any play in the bearing or if it is noisy.

Post by **cn90** » 19 May 2016, 13:56

I replaced mine at 150K or so, it had play.
Most bearings are free-wheeling at 130K+ miles.

I outlined the whole DIY below.

DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 Timing Belt, WP, Cam Seals, SB Overhaul
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53722

Post by **oragex** » 19 May 2016, 14:06

Mine was free wheeling but not running rough. Being lazy and on the cheap side, I removed the bearing seal and repacked with bearing grease. No more free wheeling but of course not going to last 50K miles.

Post by **scot850** » 19 May 2016, 14:21

On the idler I personally would replace the idler at 140k miles. I appreciate $50 is $50 more to spend, but way cheaper than having the bearing fail and the belt possibly taking the TB out as well as I have heard of when the belt broke. By all means, spin the bearing and listen/feel for roughness.

My experience was at around 110k miles on an 850 and changed the belt only for the tensioner to fail a week later!

Neil.

mar601 · Post by **mar601** » 20 May 2016, 07:27

Ok thanks everybody. I replaced the belt myself years ago so it must have been easy -- used a DIY tool to do it. If I remember right it goes on/off without removing anything?

So -- once it's off, is it pretty easy to put this tensioner and pulley on? Maybe just mounting bolts for the tensioner (2 - 3 or ?)

And how does the pulley stay on ? A "C ring" or something ? Do you use some grease before putting the new one on ?

Does it also pay to lubricate anything in that belt path ? -- THANKS