Camshaft seals

PennaPilot · Post by **PennaPilot** » 02 Jan 2017, 07:37

Is it possible to replace the camshaft seals without removing the valve cover?

beigg · Post by **beigg** » 02 Jan 2017, 07:48

yes. got a leaker?

PennaPilot · Post by **PennaPilot** » 02 Jan 2017, 08:17

Yes, its how I got the car. The previous owner was told by her mechanic that the headgasket was leaking oil and that she needed it replaced. So she sold it to me instead. I do chuckle that he put an absorbant pad on the control arm to keep the oil leak under control. He also put in AT205 but I know that was a wasted effort.

Does anybody have directions or pictures to complete this job?

Post by **jonesg** » 02 Jan 2017, 08:56

same yr model here, I went through this last summer, not too big a job if you have tools, I used the Haynes manual from IPD.
There are vids on Youtube that go over the timing details, I swapped everything out while I was in there.

You will need the locking tool for the cam shafts, the one that goes on the rear end of the shafts, $120 IPD.

F150 did a good writeup on this site 4 months ago (approx) with pictures, you have to move the computer box out of the way to get at the big torx bolts that secure the sprockets to cam shafts.

PennaPilot · Post by **PennaPilot** » 02 Jan 2017, 09:37

I'll probably have to make something, they're out of stock on the cam tool.

Post by **jonesg** » 02 Jan 2017, 13:40

Try ebay for the rear cam lock tool.

Heres the writeup by F150.

Cvvt hub change on p2 volvos

The Haynes service manual details a DIY cam lock tool w/ diagram.

Post by **JRL** » 02 Jan 2017, 17:34

You also need to remove the timing belt so now would be a good time for a new one (and of course the tensioners).

Post by **F250** » 03 Jan 2017, 14:12

Consider a new water pump while you're in there, too.

One thing to check before you dig into this.... pull the plastic cover off the top of the valve cover and see if the oil may be coming from either a leaking PCV hose which comes across from the front of the engine (over the intake manifold) and connects to a nipple on top of the valve cover, or possibly from around a leaking seal under the oil fill cap.

First, though, do the rubber glove test to make sure that your PCV system is not plugged up. If it is, either of those two described potential leak points will cause oil to run across the top of the valve cover and can drain down around the cam shafts on either the front or rear of the engine (PS or DS, respectively).

PennaPilot · Post by **PennaPilot** » 03 Jan 2017, 17:23

Timing belt and water pump and tensioner was done last year and 40k miles ago.

Glove test was good.

PennaPilot · Post by **PennaPilot** » 03 Jan 2017, 19:51

Can someone scan the directions on how to make the tool and send them to me?