2007 XC70 Fuel pump fuse repeatedly blows

Post by **mtd240** » 16 Jan 2018, 17:21

Hi everyone!

I have a 2007 XC70 (130k miles) that repeatedly blows the 15A fuel pump fuse 10-15 seconds after starting. VIDA says ECM291-D (Fuel pump control module -- Signal too low) and CEM-3F90 (Fuel pump relay open circuit or shorted to ground); think those codes more or less mean that the fuse blew.

I am guessing it’s a failing fuel pump that is starting to lock up - but I want to be sure before I drop $200. Are there any other components that are prone to fail on these cars, and cause a similar issue?

The PEM looked fine (opened it up, no corrosion on connector or inside). It is mounted in the trunk, so no serious corrosion issues like the earlier models.

The only other issue that popped up is a “Low Battery” message - curious, since the car was not cranked over excessively in between failures. Could a bad alternator or battery contribute to any of this in some convoluted way?

Any guidance on other things I should check before ordering the pump? Any other parts I should consider replacing “while I’m in there”?

All advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Michael

Post by **jonesg** » 16 Jan 2018, 21:07

mtd240 wrote: ↑16 Jan 2018, 17:21 Hi everyone!

I have a 2007 XC70 (130k miles) that repeatedly blows the 15A fuel pump fuse 10-15 seconds after starting. VIDA says ECM291-D (Fuel pump control module -- Signal too low) and CEM-3F90 (Fuel pump relay open circuit or shorted to ground); think those codes more or less mean that the fuse blew.

I am guessing it’s a failing fuel pump that is starting to lock up - but I want to be sure before I drop $200. Are there any other components that are prone to fail on these cars, and cause a similar issue?

The PEM looked fine (opened it up, no corrosion on connector or inside). It is mounted in the trunk, so no serious corrosion issues like the earlier models.

The only other issue that popped up is a “Low Battery” message - curious, since the car was not cranked over excessively in between failures. Could a bad alternator or battery contribute to any of this in some convoluted way?

Any guidance on other things I should check before ordering the pump? Any other parts I should consider replacing “while I’m in there”?

All advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Michael

$200 for a pump ?,
I would look at swapping the motor only.
Did that on my old Volvo , $55.
Pump motor was korean made.
A.C. Delco with a Volvo sticker.
Bought replacement at autozone.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 18 Jan 2018, 00:34

Could a bad alternator or battery contribute to any of this in some convoluted way?

Yes, electronics can get sensitive over the power supply voltages. Use a Multimeter to see if the Alternator is charging. Take the battery in to Autozone for a free battery test. Hold off on ordering parts until you know the battery and charging system is in good condition. It is possible that the pump is drawing more current due to low battery voltage.

Post by **mtd240** » 19 Jan 2018, 06:22

Battery tested fine (Advance Auto). Alternator is pushing 100-150A depending on how many accessories I turn on (headlights, HVAC, heated seats, defroster, etc.). That seems reasonable. Car ran fine yesterday. I am still thinking it's the fuel pump. Maybe it got jolted around on the tow truck enough to give it a few dying breaths.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Jan 2018, 07:13

Im in the middle of diagnosing fuel delivery problems on my 2005 which I ***think*** is pretty close to your 2007 in design.

There is a 40Amp fuse under the engine compartment that is worth checking for corrosion and junk - you have to lift the fuse panel to access it - after disconnecting battery and the large two red positive feeds to the fuse box (M8 nut)

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 19 Jan 2018, 07:34

Any guidance on other things I should check before ordering the pump? Any other parts I should consider replacing “while I’m in there”?

There are two fuel pumps one is called the Fuel Pump the other is called the Feed Pump, Ejector.
One is located on the Right Fuel Level Sender.
The other is located on the Left Fuel level Sender.
Both pumps and the Fuel Pump Control Module (PEM) are on that 15A fuse that is blowing.

Post by **mtd240** » 19 Jan 2018, 17:21

abscate wrote: ↑19 Jan 2018, 07:13 Im in the middle of diagnosing fuel delivery problems on my 2005 which I ***think*** is pretty close to your 2007 in design.

There is a 40Amp fuse under the engine compartment that is worth checking for corrosion and junk - you have to lift the fuse panel to access it - after disconnecting battery and the large two red positive feeds to the fuse box (M8 nut)

I couldn't get the fuse panel out of the black box it is clipped into. But, there is definitely an electrical issue of some sort. While the car is running, the interior lights and headlights flicker. One of the low beam bulbs burnt out too. It idles at a little under 700 RPM now, too.

Alternator outputs good amperage, voltage is at 14.5V while running (at the battery - 14.6V at the positive post on the fuse panel), and the battery tested fine. AC voltage at idle is 0.05V.

No check engine light either.

Any other hints?

Post by **abscate** » 19 Jan 2018, 20:24

You have to:

Disconnect battery negative terminal

Remove 4 torx screws

Remove the M8 nut from the two fat red wires feeding the fuse box.

Then the underside fuses can be accessed.

the 40 amp fuse also feeds the right headlight and fuel pump..is that the one that is Burned out?

QUARKS40 · Post by **QUARKS40** » 19 Jan 2018, 22:42

jonesg wrote: ↑16 Jan 2018, 21:07 $200 for a pump ?,
I would look at swapping the motor only.
Did that on my old Volvo , $55.
Pump motor was korean made.
A.C. Delco with a Volvo sticker.
Bought replacement at autozone.

Attached is something I found regarding changing the intank fuel pump on a 40. I know, not the same, exactly, but this worked on a 2000 V70 I did a two years back, maybe this will give you an idea on how to do it on yours.
EDIT: how is the fuel filter???
and .... Wasn't there a tech bulletin about the fuel pump relay being wonky?

Post by **mtd240** » 20 Jan 2018, 06:04

abscate wrote: ↑19 Jan 2018, 20:24 You have to:

Disconnect battery negative terminal

Remove 4 torx screws

Remove the M8 nut from the two fat red wires feeding the fuse box.

Then the underside fuses can be accessed.

the 40 amp fuse also feeds the right headlight and fuel pump..is that the one that is Burned out?

There aren't any torx screws on the '07 fuse panel - it is held in with a bunch of clips. Even after disengaging the clips, though, the fuse panel won't lift out of the plastic enclosure. Feels like all the wires are attached to the enclosure somehow - I don't want to break any wires/connections by yanking on it. Guess I'll give it another try today.

And yep - it's the right headlight that went out. How could a finnicky fuse cause that?