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LED replacement bulbs, 2008 S60

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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JNavas
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LED replacement bulbs, 2008 S60

Post by JNavas »

As incandescent bulbs burn out, I'm trying to replace them with LED bulbs.
My criteria: direct replacement, no modifications, no CAN bus issues.
Thus far I've found two I can recommend:

Parking lights, front

Sylvania LED Mini Bulb 168
O'Reilly Amazon
Double the brightness (but not too bright), white light, direct replacement without modifications of any kind. Makes the car much easier to find in a parking lot with the remote.

Backup lights

iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs white
Amazon eBay
My Amazon review: "Used a pair of these to replace the backup bulbs on my 2008 Volvo S60, and the result is outstanding. Double the brightness, white light, direct replacement without modifications of any kind. These are the ones to get, highly recommended!"
Image Image
Hope that helps,
John
2008 Volvo S60 2.5T (black with oak interior)

JNavas
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Post by JNavas »

~~~ LOOKS GOOD ON PAPER BUT NOT TESTED ~~~

Turn signals

AMAZENAR 7507 Extremely Bright Amber / Yellow Non-Polarity Canbus Error Code Free LED
(Claimed brightness is about 3X standard incandescent bulb, guessing it's more like 2X.)

UPDATE: AMAZENAR may have a white version of this bulb (that might be suitable
for brake light and/or read fog light) in the April 2018 time frame.
Last edited by JNavas on 03 Feb 2018, 09:51, edited 1 time in total.
Hope that helps,
John
2008 Volvo S60 2.5T (black with oak interior)

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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

The OE 7507 incandescent bulb is 25 watts and about 280 lumens. 1500 lumens is more like 5x. That's way too bright and could blind somebody directly behind you, particularly at night.

The turn signal bulbs are monitored.
Our cars are more sophisticated about this and look for the correct rated current load across the bulb while it is lit so as to catch a weak connection in the wiring, lamp socket, or a dim/damaged filament. The 'resistor' in aftermarket LEDs may not satisfy our cars as the resistor is usually designed to pass a trickle current below the LED's forward voltage drop rating so that (other cars not Volvo) don't see an open circuit during a low voltage continuity check. Most people looking to switch to LEDs on these change out non-monitored bulbs but end up leaving monitored bulbs alone. Monitored bulbs are: rear parking lamps (the message on the DIM confusingly calls these "Lamp: Position"), stop, turn, and forward low/high beams.
Note the side marker lamps at the outside edges of the head and tail lamp assemblies are not monitored.

Georgeandkira
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Post by Georgeandkira »

An MVS suggestion:

Is there any interest or benefit in establishing a "catalog" of MEMBER PROVEN LED replacement lamps?

Make it a sticky, obviously, and include date, brand, product number, lamp location, lamp numbers which they replace and member's username.

"Categories" or column headings could include: Interior, Exterior, Monitored, Non-monitored, Branded, White-box non-branded.

Notifications of "meltdowns" could save members a lot of woe.

JNavas
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Post by JNavas »

Georgeandkira wrote: 03 Feb 2018, 08:07 An MVS suggestion:
Is there any interest or benefit in establishing a "catalog" of MEMBER PROVEN LED replacement lamps?
Make it a sticky, obviously, and include date, brand, product number, lamp location, lamp numbers which they replace and member's username.
"Categories" or column headings could include: Interior, Exterior, Monitored, Non-monitored, Branded, White-box non-branded.
Notifications of "meltdowns" could save members a lot of woe.
Agreed, great idea. :!:
Hope that helps,
John
2008 Volvo S60 2.5T (black with oak interior)

JNavas
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Post by JNavas »

mrbrian200 wrote: 03 Feb 2018, 00:48 [1]The OE 7507 incandescent bulb is 25 watts and about 280 lumens. 1500 lumens is more like 5x. That's way too bright and could blind somebody directly behind you, particularly at night.
[2]The turn signal bulbs are monitored.
[3]Our cars are more sophisticated about this and look for the correct rated current load across the bulb while it is lit so as to catch a weak connection in the wiring, lamp socket, or a dim/damaged filament. [4]The 'resistor' in aftermarket LEDs may not satisfy our cars as the resistor is usually designed to pass a trickle current below the LED's forward voltage drop rating so that (other cars not Volvo) don't see an open circuit during a low voltage continuity check. [5]Most people looking to switch to LEDs on these change out non-monitored bulbs but end up leaving monitored bulbs alone. Monitored bulbs are: rear parking lamps (the message on the DIM confusingly calls these "Lamp: Position"), stop, turn, and forward low/high beams.
Note the side marker lamps at the outside edges of the head and tail lamp assemblies are not monitored.
1. Alas, lumen numbers are not a good guide (part of why you rarely see them specified for major brands). Brightness depends on age, beam angle, reflector, lens/diffuser, etc. Beam angle is particularly important with LED bulbs, which generally use multiple small chips in arrays pointing in various directions, often with quite different brightness in different directions, which may or may not be affected by reflector and/or lens/diffuser. And claims are often exaggerated by sellers of LED bulbs. So there's no good alternative to actually trying replacement LED bulbs.

2. Yes, some bulbs are monitored on the CAN bus (CAN Bus LED Bulbs – FAQ) and others are not.

3. No, Volvos are not "more sophisticated" than other comparable cars.

4. Yes, add-on load resistors may or may not work, depending on a number of factors.
Again, there's no good alternative to actually trying it.

5. Yes, many people do take the easy way out.

Other important LED bulb considerations include polarity, heat dissipation, water resistance, and base design.

My objective is to provide clear information on what does work.
And I measure actual brightness with a light meter.
Do you have any such information, or are you just spreading FUD?
Hope that helps,
John
2008 Volvo S60 2.5T (black with oak interior)

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Georgeandkira wrote: 03 Feb 2018, 08:07 An MVS suggestion:

Is there any interest or benefit in establishing a "catalog" of MEMBER PROVEN LED replacement lamps..,
This subject does lend itself to your idea, George. Thank you.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

There are a lot of misleading statements on that retailer's FAQ page.
But that is because most vehicle owners do not really understand most of this stuff or how any of it actually works.
So they dumb it down into terms that are easier to understand, but often technically incorrect.

The only bulbs that communicate data directly over the CAN network are newest OE supplied LED and HID ballasts in vehicles that were originally designed specifically them.

Incandescent bulbs do not communicate directly on the CAN network. An analog lamp control circuit essentially probes the lamp circuit for continuity, over or under current. Data communication is limited to between computer control boxes - such as between control circuit that trips an input on a SOC inside the CEM that then generates a digital message over the CAN network which the DIM reads to display a warning message. In older cars before CAN, lamp out warnings were triggered by a 100% analog circuit, a typical example:
LO.JPG
LO.JPG (45.82 KiB) Viewed 4530 times
In a P2 originally equipped with incandescent bulbs, a similar circuit would exist inside the CEM or REM. But instead of directly lighting a warning lamp, the output of this analog circuit, labeled "LED 1 (Red)" triggers an input on a computer chip. That chip generates CAN data. Not the light bulb that's out or incorrect.

JNavas
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Post by JNavas »

mrbrian200 wrote: 03 Feb 2018, 12:45 There are a lot of misleading statements on that retailer's FAQ page.
...
In a P2 originally equipped with incandescent bulbs, a similar circuit would exist inside the CEM or REM. But instead of directly lighting a warning lamp, the output of this analog circuit, labeled "LED 1 (Red)" triggers an input on a computer chip. That chip generates CAN data. Not the light bulb that's out or incorrect.
Yes, but the page, which is essentially correct, doesn't actually say that.
How about we just stick to what works (or doesn't work)
and leave out the extraneous meta-discussions?
Hope that helps,
John
2008 Volvo S60 2.5T (black with oak interior)

Jonboy74
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Post by Jonboy74 »

Georgeandkira wrote: 03 Feb 2018, 08:07 An MVS suggestion:

Is there any interest or benefit in establishing a "catalog" of MEMBER PROVEN LED replacement lamps?

Make it a sticky, obviously, and include date, brand, product number, lamp location, lamp numbers which they replace and member's username.

"Categories" or column headings could include: Interior, Exterior, Monitored, Non-monitored, Branded, White-box non-branded.

Notifications of "meltdowns" could save members a lot of woe.
YES PLEASE!

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