Passenger Power Seat not working Topic is solved

pb49415 · Post by **pb49415** » 06 May 2018, 14:24

I’m trying to figure out why my passenger power seat is not working. It was, but hasn’t for about a year. Both 20 amp fuses under the secured fuse box are good and there’s power to that circuit at the box. What I’m seeing is that’s there’s no power at the harness connection under that seat. I’ve checked both at the box under the seat and through that wire bundle to the control mechanism on the side of the seat and neither appear to have power. Is there another harness between the seat and the fuse box? Or does anyone have any suggestions on what I could try next?

Thanks in advance for any information,
Paul

Post by **rspi** » 06 May 2018, 15:49

Does either work?
Does it move at all in any direction?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 06 May 2018, 16:42

Most of my problems have been with the switch and I can get it to work again with contact cleaner.

...Lee

pb49415 · Post by **pb49415** » 06 May 2018, 23:43

rspi wrote: ↑06 May 2018, 15:49 Does either work?
Does it move at all in any direction?

Yes, the driver seat functions fine. Moves in all directions. I must have a busted wire somewhere. All I get is millivolts on at both the wire harness connection under the seat and at the other end at the controller on the seats side.

pb49415 · Post by **pb49415** » 06 May 2018, 23:46

Ozark Lee wrote: ↑06 May 2018, 16:42 Most of my problems have been with the switch and I can get it to work again with contact cleaner.

...Lee

All terminal pins look to be not corroded. I’m just getting millivolts at both ends of wire harness please refer to other reply on previous comment.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 07 May 2018, 01:54

If we’re talking about the same things,
those metal cans aren’t fuses, they’re
thermally tripped auto-resetting circuit
breakers. Have you tried swapping them?

pb49415 · Post by **pb49415** » 07 May 2018, 02:37

BEJinFbk wrote: ↑07 May 2018, 01:54 If we’re talking about the same things,
those metal cans aren’t fuses, they’re
thermally tripped auto-resetting circuit
breakers. Have you tried swapping them?

Actually I did not. I thought they were just fuses. I’ll give that a try. If I blow the good one, where can I purchase a new one? Do auto parts stores carry them or it a stealership item? I’ll need at least one on hand if that’s the case.

Thanks!!!! I would have never thought that was what they were.

Post by **abscate** » 07 May 2018, 05:14

They self reset. Look for voltage on both sides of the pins on the circuit breaker.

I think I grabbed them off my parts car which had one power seat? Probably the same for passenger

pb49415 · Post by **pb49415** » 07 May 2018, 08:42

abscate wrote: ↑07 May 2018, 05:14 They self reset. Look for voltage on both sides of the pins on the circuit breaker.

I think I grabbed them off my parts car which had one power seat? Probably the same for passenger

I did a continuity check already and both checked good. Both slots of each connection on fuse box test 12v across also. I have not yet pushed the breaker in halfway to test through that. Is that what your talking about or have I done the check your describing already?

Post by **abscate** » 07 May 2018, 10:45

The reset inside, once they cool off from overcorrect. It sounds like supply side is good, so you have to fault trace backwards from the known lack of 12V back to the circuit breakers.

Wiriing diagrams for these cars are free online, but we don't host here by legal agreement with Volvo