[2000 v70XC] Places to buy a center U joint for propshaft?

Post by **jvl** » 31 Aug 2018, 08:25

Hi guys,

Still thinking about reviving the propshaft on my V70XC that is now at 329k KM / 200k miles.

First I'll throw in a question:
Where can I obtain a new U joint that will fit my propshaft?

Here's the long story:
There is a driveshaft under the car now. The AWD works (tested VC using volvo test method), the angle gear sleeve was restored by my local indy by plug welding it to the angle gear.
Over the past few thousand KM's, the car started shaking. I took the propshaft out and it solved the shaking.
I inspected the propshaft on my workbench and concluded two things:

1) the boot is torn at the front joint, but the joint has consistently been filled with grease and it still moves smoothly, no play.
2) the center U joint was totally stuck, so the two parts of the propshaft wouldn't rotate smoothly when the U joint is held under an angle.

Temporary fix
Figuring I had nothing to loose, I drowned the U joint in ATF for a few nights, and it moved as if it was brand new afterwards: very smoothly and without play.

I put the propshaft back under the car and have driven about 15.000KM (almost 10k miles) without problems The car was smoother than before I bought it.
But then, the shaking has gradually come back over the past thousand KM.
When I spray ATF on the U joint, the ride is smooth for about 200 km.
After a while, the ATF dries out and it starts to shake again.
So I think I've clearly identified the source of my vibration.

I've been in contact with Colorado Drive Shaft, they indicated they would be willing to supply the separate part for USD 25 which is great, but the shipping makes it expensive as they send international packages through a third party. I also got the impression that they are not in a hurry to help out since this is such a small purchase. It litteraly took months and a few reminders to get the info above.

I asked around locally and a complete overhaul of the shaft would cost about 600 EUR / 550 USD.
I also found a complete new propshaft on ebay for about the same price.
It seems silly to spend this kind of money on a broken u joint. I know the front joint and carrier bearing aren't new anymore, but I think a 25 dollar fix would fix 80% of my vibrations, so I don't see why I would spend another 525 dollars to make the ride entirely smooth.

I know it might be hard to replace the U joint as it is staked in and the new one would need to be spot welded in, but am willing to give it a go. I don't wanna use the propshaft as-is anymore because of the vibrations and I am willing to take the risk of messing it up. In the worst case I'll keep driving 2wd I think, the car has cost enough this far and the resale value is not that high anymore.

It would be cool to restore the AWD though, so anyone care to help out in finding a U joint?
Any ideas on where to find such a joint? Anyone know a webshop that does international shipping (I am in The Netherlands)

Thanks in advance!!

Joost

Post by **jimmy57** » 31 Aug 2018, 09:05

I have not replaced a center u joint on one of those shafts but I have done it on Japanese mini trucks (Kei trucks) where parts are not available in the US or are hugely expensive. (like $211 for a u joint that I ended finding locally for $18).

I do not have a driveshaft like is in your car to look at so you will have to inspect the items below for yourself.

You will need to look at the yokes where uj fits to see if the inside of yoke is machined flat or is a rough casting. If it is machined flat then an inside lock uj will work. If not the new uj may have to be staked again and that is going to be tougher job to get it centered. Before doing anything use a micrometer to measure the outside to outside of the cross caps on uj. Use a vernier caliper or other tool to measure the diameter of bore where caps press in.
The dimensions you get should be close to something you can find via Google research on uj sizing. I found uj dimensional charts online from GKN, Lobro, and many other brands. The uj on that shaft is not going to be some unique part. It is a standard uj used due to cost and availabilty. The CV joints and ujs used in components are almost always off the shelf pieces.
Driveshaftparts.com might be a resource. If you find a part number then you can google that number and may find it is available from other suppliers nearer to you.

The staked joint can be pressed out if you use a mini grinder (Dremel brand is the most common here) to grind the displaced metal from staking down some. Don't try to completely grind it away as going too far will affect the roundness of the opening for the uj cross cap.

Post by **jvl** » 31 Aug 2018, 11:06

Thank you Jimmy, this helps a lot!
I also did change out u joints with circlips before on my Land Rover, but have never had to deal with staked in ones.
At least this gives me an excuse to buy a decent Dremel grinder, my cheap one died previously

I hope getting around to pulling the shaft this weekend so that I can first get some measurements and try if I can order the right part before I do any cutting.

Thanks much!

Joost

Yarddogperformance · Post by **Yarddogperformance** » 01 Sep 2018, 07:07

There is an answer

but i have to make sure it works, there is a napa u joint that is .0014 of an inch too narrow with the right caps, i am going to buy this joint and have some shims made, when i have the measurements you guys will be able to use an off the shelf joint with some extra peices

Yarddogperformance · Post by **Yarddogperformance** » 01 Sep 2018, 07:09

Yarddogperformance wrote: ↑01 Sep 2018, 07:07 There is an answer but i have to make sure it works, there is a napa u joint that is .0014 of an inch too narrow with the right caps, i am going to buy this joint and have some shims made, when i have the measurements you guys will be able to use an off the shelf joint with some extra peices

Do not try this unless you know what you are doing. Its not just as easy as it sounds

Post by **abscate** » 01 Sep 2018, 08:28

I ground off a swaged UJ off an e83 driveshaft, centered a $20 UJ and tack welded it in, vs a $900 replacement shaft.

If you have decent mechanic skills this isn't too bad, i would say in-between 3 and four rivers mechanic rating

Post by **jvl** » 01 Sep 2018, 09:17

I think I will try to get an U joint that is the same size as the current one, and indeed try to tack weld it in.
Busy weekend, so pulling the shaft will happen next week. I will let you guys know how it turns out, thanks for the input so far!

Post by **jimmy57** » 01 Sep 2018, 09:34

a reference I found. C is cap diameter and B1 is cap end to cap end.

www.bearing.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2 ... Joints.pdf

Post by **jvl** » 14 Sep 2018, 10:09

Hi all,

So, no real progress but a new question...:
I still have the propshaft in place. It wobbles a bit and this seems to affect steering precision.

Got in touch with a local driveshaft repair shop, they say they won't replace the u joint because they cannot balance this particular shaft. They say they cannot put this kind of shaft in their balancer due to the tripoid joints at both ends. They are willing to separately sell the correct u joint -if they have it- but don't have a lot of confidence in replacing it without balancing the shaft (which they can't).

So I seem to be back at deciding whether I want to go down the new but aftetmarket shaft route, or just running it FWD. I know I can run the car FWD just fine, I just like the handling better with AWD.
If I would replace the shaft: any opinions on whether this is a wise investment? The VC seems to be good, do they break down a lot?

Question: anyone has experience with the Diversified Shafts brand? I found a fitting shaft on ebay which seems to be the cheapest.

Thanks for any suggestions/opinions.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Sep 2018, 20:35

My experience with the $100shaftguys Is that they are junk