1998 V70 AT camshaft position, no crank

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 31 Aug 2020, 18:26

Greetings,

I hope this finds each of you well and safe!

I have been in the midst of a water pump and timing belt change. Old water pump just about bit the dust, but not before I noticed coolant leaking from it and pooling on the inside (or rear) timing belt cover. Then noticed that the camshaft cover was showing signs of oil leakage along the exhaust side. Took pictures of the sprockets, cam position sensor, and rotor before taking the cover off.

After cleaning every nook and cranny on the underside of the camshaft cover, and cleaning the exposed part of the cylinder head, along with removing rust from the pulleys and tensioners, and soaking the followers in oil, I was finally in a position to begin reassembly. I was able to remove a lot of crud from inside the cylinder head that was still attached to the motor by soaking some cut up rags in brake cleaner and stuffing them in the many holes of the exposed part of the cylinder head. Did that a few times to so I could almost see bare metal inside the cylinder head. There is still crud around the valve stems that I could not reach but am hoping with a few oil changes that will clean itself.

My problem now that the camshaft cover is on, is that I need to adjust the intake camshaft but it won't move. Should I be loosening the camshaft cover bolts in order to do this? I began bolting down the cover about three this afternoon and completed the torquing of each bolt about 7pm. It took a while as my digital torque gadget was low on battery power!

Also, I am more familiar with hydraulic tensioners (as there was one on my '98 silver Volvo V70 which I wrote extensively about and gained a tremendous amount of help from members of this site about 6+ years ago when I rebuilt the cylinder head, valves and all), but the '98 blue Volvo V70 has an automatic tensioner. I totally neglected to note or photo the position of this tensioner, and now have no idea where the prongs are supposed to be.

Appreciate any and all suggestions on rotating the intake camshaft and the position of the tensioner!

Post by **abscate** » 31 Aug 2020, 18:34

You have to tighten the cover down carefully to keep the cam aligned in its slots. Once the sealant sets, though, if you loosen the cover you should really reseal. You can bring the cam down with just four bolts until the seal line closes, then zip the rest in.

I used Bosch power driver at setting 5, which is under torqued, to zip them all down , then do final torque with a measured tool/

There is a great FCP video link in Beths thread on setting up the mechanical timers Here in the P2 forum

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=95055

Two of the fingers engage in bumps on the block to lock the spring.

The 6 mm hex boss piece then rotates counterclockeisevuntil the temperature indicator is centered.

the 12mm hex m8nbokt is then tightened to lock it in place.

Post by **abscate** » 31 Aug 2020, 18:39

The cams can be a bit tight.

First confirm crank is in safe position on timing mark

Put two of the M6 10mm hex head bolts in and then use a screwdriver or socket extension as a twisty wrench and it shoulmove wth mild hand pressure.

Intake slot up
Exhaust,slotbdown

If you aren’t careful putting the distributor rotor plate back in, you lose 5 hours of life wondering why your car won’t start.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 31 Aug 2020, 19:05

Hi abscate!!!!!
Nice to hear from you!

On the camshaft cover, when you say I should reseal it, does that mean I need to re-clean both surfaces that contact each other? Please, oh please, say "NO"! I'll sleep better.
But, I'll understand why your answer is a resounding "YES"!

I'll hit up the link for the tensioner shortly! Thanks a bunch!!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 31 Aug 2020, 19:08

I did try the trick with the screwdriver between two bolts on the sprocket end, but one bolt began to bend!!!
The camshafts just don't want to move. The exhaust camshaft is right where it should be, but the intake camshaft where the rotor is, is lining up vertically, not horizontally like it should.

Post by **abscate** » 31 Aug 2020, 19:39

Oh yeah, K . You need to stop for the night. That intake cam is not in right

Cam cover has to look like this....just before you bolt it.

Top picture,...finished

Middle picture...ready for sealer

Bottom, sealer applied.

Are you in a North or Syracuse ?

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 31 Aug 2020, 19:49

Thanks for sending photos (of your work??)!!
Maybe I will loosen the bolts tonight and check on the position of the intake camshaft in the morning, after I remove the camshaft cover, again!!

Post by **FLXC90** » 31 Aug 2020, 19:58

Pull the cover back off, clean it all and reseal the top, do as indicated, cinch with 4 bolt just to slowly apply pressure. Ensure cam position repeatedly during the process, apply lock tools if you have them, to keep the cams from walking. With the cam 90degrees out of phase, some of your intake valves are probably in contact with a piston. Don't freak, just undo it, and re-accomplish it. Unless others with more whiteblock rebuild knowledge (Like Abscate or RHP) advise more inspection. I would pull the lifters out and check the tops of the valve stems for uniform height. A valve that bent, would sit low. This is worst-case. Take it apart, do the visual check, and ;et us know

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 01 Sep 2020, 08:28

Thanks for your replies and instructions!

I took the cover off and carefully removed each of the lifters, all the tops of the valves are at the same height!! That is good news!

I know that the numbers at the end of each camshaft are supposed to be opposite each other - the intake camshaft, numbers on the top?); the exhaust camshaft, numbers at the bottom (?). Is this correct? I need help on this!

Thanks!

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 01 Sep 2020, 08:50

5rivers wrote: 31 Aug 2020, 18:26
My problem now that the camshaft cover is on, is that I need to adjust the intake camshaft but it won't move. Should I be loosening the camshaft cover bolts in order to do this? I began bolting down the cover about three this afternoon and completed the torquing of each bolt about 7pm. It took a while as my digital torque gadget was low on battery power!

Camshafts and crankshaft need to be timed before you put the cam cover on.

This is the correct way to prep the cam cover and cams. Camshafts are lock in time to the cam cover. With two of the tools from a Volvo alignment kit. There is another tool in the kit for pressing the cam cover to the head. Applies even pressure so you don't warp the cam cover and holds it in place as you install the bolts.