2006 S60 - power locks do not work when car is off

dmarksmith · Post by **dmarksmith** » 09 Mar 2021, 10:36

The power locks (all 4 doors) and power adjustable seats do not work when the car is off. They also do not work when the key is in position 1 or position 2.

After I start the car and wait about 3 seconds, the power locks and power adjustable seats work fine. The seat position memory is also working fine after I start the car and wait 3 seconds.

The remote unlock does not work, either. I can see the ring on the steering column light up when I press the remote, and it goes off when I press the remote again. The interior light button on the remote also works and turns on the interior light as designed when the key is not in the ignition.

All the fuses in all four fuse panels have 12V, even when the key is out, and I see no sign of half-burned fuses.

Any ideas on how to find the root cause? I am considering checking the connectors on the ECM under the driver side dash under the windshield wipers to check for oxidation.

The only OBD code I see is REM-E010 Power Supply Control Module. Signal Too Low
DTC REM-E010 Description:The rear electronic module (REM) compares its supply voltage with the information about the supply voltage to the central electronic module (CEM) transmitted on the CAN network. The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the rear electronic module (REM) registers that its own power supply is more than 3V below the power supply to the central electronic module (CEM). The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) can be diagnosed when the engine is running.
Cause:
• Half-burned fuse for the rear electronic module (REM)
• Damaged power supply cable to the rear electronic module (REM)
• Loose connections in the ground lead for the rear electronic module (REM)
• Contact resistance or oxidation in the terminals

This vehicle: 2006 Volvo S60 2.5T FWD (P2) - just over 70,000 miles.

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 09 Mar 2021, 17:25

This is a power problem, a voltage level too low going to an electronics module when the car isn't running. If the battery is good and fully charge then the problem would be a resistance voltage drop problem to the CEM or UEM. I don't have a wiring diagram for your model year but earlier model years have two fuses that supply 12V to the CEM and another fuse to the UEM. The fuses may not be bad but any resistances on the fuse legs or possibly other places will cause a voltage drop to the central electronics or upper electronics module. I don't think this is problem with UEM because this would be a remote only problem.

In the passenger compartment fuses check to see which fuse or fuses are for the CEM and pull and clean the legs on these fuses.

How did this problem start? Gradually are all of sudden? Is it intermittent at all, do things work sometimes when the car isn't running such as right when you turn off the car for example?

dmarksmith · Post by **dmarksmith** » 09 Mar 2021, 18:17

Thank you. It happened all of a sudden. I have the wiring diagrams. In addition to the bus fuses, there is one 60 amp fuse link underneath the fuse box in the engine compartment that’s supposed to be hot all the time. I was going to check it for resistance but can’t get the top tray out to access it, yet.

I have been replacing fuses, just in case, as many of the connectors are dark, perhaps oxidized, even though the fuse itself is otherwise visibly good.

I’m also considering cleaning the terminals in the fuse box. I’ve sprayed electronic cleaner but have not brushed them yet.

I really appreciate the thorough feedback. If you think of something else please let me know.

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 09 Mar 2021, 18:54

dmarksmith wrote: ↑09 Mar 2021, 18:17 Thank you. It happened all of a sudden. I have the wiring diagrams. In addition to the bus fuses, there is one 60 amp fuse link underneath the fuse box in the engine compartment that’s supposed to be hot all the time. I was going to check it for resistance but can’t get the top tray out to access it, yet.

I have been replacing fuses, just in case, as many of the connectors are dark, perhaps oxidized, even though the fuse itself is otherwise visibly good.

I’m also considering cleaning the terminals in the fuse box. I’ve sprayed electronic cleaner but have not brushed them yet.

I really appreciate the thorough feedback. If you think of something else please let me know.

If you can send me the wiring diagrams for your model year I may be able to help out more. It is an obvious low voltage problem to the CEM (likely) and a resistance problem in the power supply path somewhere, which is why I suspect the fuse contact legs first but it could be other places or a problem with the CEM itself. Does there appear to be any water damage to the CEM? It might also be worthwhile to contact XeModeX about this problem and hear what they have to say. If the connectors are dark find the fuses that supply power to the CEM and clean them thoroughly and see if it helps.

dmarksmith · Post by **dmarksmith** » 11 Mar 2021, 08:53

Attached are the wiring diagrams for the 2001-2009 Volvo S60. My vehicle is a 2006 model year, 2.5T (turbo).

Since my last post, I replaced the bus fuses labeled CEM, REM, and central locking. None were bad, but I chose to replace them anyway. I also sprayed electronics cleaner on the terminals and brushed the terminals.

This weekend, I will check for water damage to the CEM.

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 11 Mar 2021, 11:07

dmarksmith wrote: ↑11 Mar 2021, 08:53 Attached are the wiring diagrams for the 2001-2009 Volvo S60. My vehicle is a 2006 model year, 2.5T (turbo).

Since my last post, I replaced the bus fuses labeled CEM, REM, and central locking. None were bad, but I chose to replace them anyway. I also sprayed electronics cleaner on the terminals and brushed the terminals.

This weekend, I will check for water damage to the CEM.

I haven't looked all through the schematics yet but what fuses did you check for the REM? I see one main 60A power distribution fuse to the REM but I expect there's a fuse or two back near REM that supplies the REM. I'm thinking the CEM power level isn't the problem, it's more likely the CEM to REM voltage difference code (REM voltage level low?) you're seeing that's inhibiting the locks from working when the car isn't running. Probably need to focus more on the REM power level and measure if possible.

When I have some time I'm going to try something with my car. I have something that plugs into the 12V outlet and measures voltage, I'm going to plug into the front and rear 12V outlets and compare the two voltage. I'll capture the voltage readings with the car key on but engine not running.

Update: I used the 12V socket meter in the link below to measure the voltage for the front and rear 12V sockets. With my car and the key in position II, engine not running and driver door open (interior lights on) I measured 11.6V for the front 12V socket and 11.7V for the rear 12V socket. The rear 12V socket is supplied by the REM power source and why I wanted to check and compare the voltage levels between the front and back. This would be one way to check to see if there's a significant difference in the voltage levels between the CEM and REM. Maybe not a perfect check but it would give you an idea if there's a big difference. You could also use a regular hand held meter to measure the voltages at the sockets but you'd have to be careful not to short between 12V supply and ground.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Batt ... 14&sr=8-15

darylrobert · Post by **darylrobert** » 12 Mar 2021, 04:44

11.6 volts is pretty low, but i think it depends what ambient temp your at?

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 12 Mar 2021, 12:18

darylrobert wrote: ↑12 Mar 2021, 04:44 11.6 volts is pretty low, but i think it depends what ambient temp your at?

Even though the battery in my car is less than year old and fully charged there's a lot of load on the battery with the key in position II (engine off) with the headlights, parking and interior lights on and it's not the actual voltage level that's of interest in this case it's the difference in voltage levels between the front and back 12V sockets that's of interest. Just wanted to see if there's a big difference between the two voltage levels, which would explain the REM code and possibly why the locks aren't working with the car not running.

dmarksmith · Post by **dmarksmith** » 13 Mar 2021, 13:31

In the engine compartment fuse box, I checked fuse 19 (5 amp) to the CEM

In the truck/rear compartment fuse box, I checked fuse 5 (10 amp) to the REM and fuse 28 (15 amp) to the central locking system.

All fuses on the rear board test with 12V.

The main 60 amp fuse you mentioned is the fuse link I mentioned earlier. It is mounted under the engine compartment fuse panel and I have not been able to access it. The earlier model had 4 Torx you could unscrew to lift the panel. The 2006 model has plastic tabs but when I tried to lift the panel, the connecting wires underneath will not allow me to lift the fuse panel to view the lower 60 amp fuse link.

I’m still in search of advice.

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 13 Mar 2021, 15:30

dmarksmith wrote: ↑13 Mar 2021, 13:31 In the engine compartment fuse box, I checked fuse 19 (5 amp) to the CEM

In the truck/rear compartment fuse box, I checked fuse 5 (10 amp) to the REM and fuse 28 (15 amp) to the central locking system.

All fuses on the rear board test with 12V.

The main 60 amp fuse you mentioned is the fuse link I mentioned earlier. It is mounted under the engine compartment fuse panel and I have not been able to access it. The earlier model had 4 Torx you could unscrew to lift the panel. The 2006 model has plastic tabs but when I tried to lift the panel, the connecting wires underneath will not allow me to lift the fuse panel to view the lower 60 amp fuse link.

I’m still in search of advice.

I'm still assuming the REM voltage difference of more then 3V lower than the CEM is inhibiting the locks and power seats and the checks I mentioned using the 12V sockets front and rear is a check to see if there is an actual voltage difference. If the voltage levels looks good between the CEM and REM then it's possible the REM is just not measuring the correct voltage level, the voltage level is actually good just not being measured correctly. At this point I would give Xemodex a call and ask if they've seen a problem with the REM like this before. Double check the (red white) main power connection to the REM and ground if possible just to make certain power and ground to the REM are good.