I just replaced the VERY worn transmission (IPD poly) and upper engine (Hutchinson) torque struts on my 3.2 AWD. Idle vibration has improved, but I am still getting a slight "clunk" when shifting from P or N into D and R. Road manners while driving are just fine.
I had thought this would be resolved, but apparently there is still something that is worn out enough to allow this play under engine torque. What is it? Engine mounts? Another transmission mount I do not know about?
Transmission and engine torque struts
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Azik09
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Ask someone to help you: shift from P or N into D and R while holding brakes. Watch and hear under the hood (and beneath the car, if possible), maybe you will find noise source. Be carefull, use wheel stoppers.
If my English is bad, please correct me 
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bichinavolvo
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Your problem sounds like axle ping and it's VERY easy to fix. Also I've read posts where people have cleaned or applied more grease to the to the outer and INNER joint of the axles. In that case you would have a clunk when accelerating and/or shifting at low speeds.
Here is a nice step by step guide for axle ping: https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10185/A ... -solutions
Here is a nice step by step guide for axle ping: https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10185/A ... -solutions
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bichinavolvo
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Just FYI: I had to tighten the bolts way beyond the torque specs for it t get any better. I also have the little rubber cone which the axle/spline bolt goes through.
- SuperHerman
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I hope you did not over torque the bolts and stretch them to snapping point. Just saw this on my BMW where the prior owner tightened the bolts until they stretched and no longer held torque. I touched them to see if they were lose and the heads broke off.
If this happen, it fits what you said earlier, if you loosen the bolts the vibration goes away (or was this another forum member with similar problems???)
If this happen, it fits what you said earlier, if you loosen the bolts the vibration goes away (or was this another forum member with similar problems???)
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bichinavolvo
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SuperHerman made a very good point, and not be missed. It is risky to tighten them too much worst case you'll have to replace the driveshaft splines/outer cv joint.
My car improved drastically, and it has been good for the past month.
It is possible that the torque wrench I used is busted or just bad (it looked quite cheap).
My car improved drastically, and it has been good for the past month.
It is possible that the torque wrench I used is busted or just bad (it looked quite cheap).
- ggleavitt
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Posted this on Swedespeed, easy enough to copy over to here. Axle bolts come in two lengths- 40mm (30746705) and 65mm 30670602). IPD has a decent write-up on their site to help determine which bolt you "probably" have.
If you order the bolts today, below is what Volvo ships (rubber cone no longer included on the short bolt, replace from old):
These are supposedly single use bolts, torque to yield (controlled deformation). Cheap enough that I replace with new whenever I take them off, just for peace of mind. I have not had an axle ping issue with any one of my vehicles over 16 years, whether this is the reason or not remains to be seen.
edit 053021- rubber cone
If you order the bolts today, below is what Volvo ships (rubber cone no longer included on the short bolt, replace from old):
These are supposedly single use bolts, torque to yield (controlled deformation). Cheap enough that I replace with new whenever I take them off, just for peace of mind. I have not had an axle ping issue with any one of my vehicles over 16 years, whether this is the reason or not remains to be seen.
edit 053021- rubber cone
2006 V8 Ocean Race #740/800 200k, 2008 V8 Sport 183k
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