I'm pretty sure it was a new part, had Volvo p/n stickers on it and they certainly charged me for a new one at $2K! They had the car since Wed, 18 Aug. I brought it in to them last month for the same problem and they had it for an entire week and said they could not replicate the problem. At least ...

Back in the days of unregulated battery chargers, getting the cells to a "boil" and causing them to off-gas was not unusual. But you'd need to be in a pretty confined space to even approach a hazard. The only time I've ever known a battery to explode was when an impatient freshman brought ...

WhatAmIDoing wrote: ↑22 Oct 2018, 08:35 Make sure to check your overhead clearance if in a garage. Don't want to accidentally smash the shop light hanging over your work area... I'm still finding glass shards 6 months later.

AND your overhead door travel...
I’m not fallin’ for THAT one again!

There’s no relay. If the switch illuminates when you turn it on,
that indicates that power and ground are both present at the switch.
Power leaves the rear fog switch on pin 4, the violet/white lead, and
runs through fuse 25 in the “C” box back to the fog light. Is that fuse OK?

I usually check for voltage when the fuse is in place. Look for 12 volts on the two metal nibs on the top of the fuse. If you have voltage on one side, but not the other, there's your bad fuse. If there's nothing at all when the switch is active, I'd suggest getting to the back side of the switch an...

FYI - Here's what you're woking with:
Hope that helps!

FWIW - They look like this:

If it’s a P80, I’d consider an
Accessory Overload Relay.
If it’s a P2, I don’t know
that system.

IIRC, there are two switches built into the door latches,
one for the security system and another for the lights.

Fob is still a 9166200, ‘98-00.

Not sure, but I believe that the
receiver is JUST a receiver and the
fob code is stored in the alarm head.